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When torqueing the rockers...

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Old Mar 15, 2007 | 02:17 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by marv
Well, that was basically my thought process, but I wasn't sure. I figured there might be away to reference degrees of turning the crank. That way I wouldn't have to try and turn the crank and watch the rockers at the same time.

Might just have to get someone to give me a hand and go at re-checking them.

Thanks!
yeah have 2 sets of eyes watching everything, it helps a lot.
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Old Mar 15, 2007 | 02:46 PM
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i just set all to 22 ft lbs, rotate, check, rotate again and check, and maybe a third time. never had any issues. is it necessary to use red loctite on the rocker bolts?
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Old Mar 15, 2007 | 03:44 PM
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Originally Posted by GregWS6&z28
i just set all to 22 ft lbs, rotate, check, rotate again and check, and maybe a third time. never had any issues. is it necessary to use red loctite on the rocker bolts?

I used blue (med) on everything.
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Old Mar 15, 2007 | 05:27 PM
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Originally Posted by SSpdDmon
Grab a friend and have them shove their finger in the spark plug hole. Pressure should build until the piston reaches TDC. That plus watching the valvetrain is how we did it.

I stick a mcdonalds drinking straw in the spark plug hole and i can actually feel when the piston is at TDC. I've done it that way for years and its never let me down. Except last night at 2am when I put my rockers back on and forgot the pedestal
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Old Mar 29, 2007 | 08:27 PM
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i torque em down no matter what the position and ive never had any problems and i have done that at least 30-40 times, the only time that it is nec. is when you have to set valve lash, but since you dont on ls engines just torque them down
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Old Mar 29, 2007 | 08:43 PM
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Originally Posted by craze4speed
i torque em down no matter what the position and ive never had any problems and i have done that at least 30-40 times, the only time that it is nec. is when you have to set valve lash, but since you dont on ls engines just torque them down
I hope you arent really ASE certified. If you are please tell where you work so I know where not to go ever.
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Old Mar 31, 2007 | 01:25 AM
  #27  
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yeah i am an ase master tech and you worry too much, if you torque it to what ever the torque spec is it doesnt matter what the position of the engine, if the bolt is all the way down and it is torqued then it is tight, that is the way it is, i work on these every day and have done it a ton of times and never had any problems
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Old Mar 31, 2007 | 11:08 AM
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Originally Posted by craze4speed
yeah i am an ase master tech and you worry too much, if you torque it to what ever the torque spec is it doesnt matter what the position of the engine, if the bolt is all the way down and it is torqued then it is tight, that is the way it is, i work on these every day and have done it a ton of times and never had any problems
lol, ok man. You are supposed to tq the bolt when the valve is seated but whatever. Even the GM manual calls for it to be done that way.
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Old Mar 31, 2007 | 11:42 AM
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Originally Posted by craze4speed
yeah i am an ase master tech and you worry too much, if you torque it to what ever the torque spec is it doesnt matter what the position of the engine, if the bolt is all the way down and it is torqued then it is tight, that is the way it is, i work on these every day and have done it a ton of times and never had any problems

Actually it does matter when you have a cammed LS1. If you tighten the rockers down too fast when under valve lift and don't let the lifter bleed down you can easily bend a valve if it contacts a piston. While its unlikely, its extremely possible. Stock motors don't matter as much.

Just to verify, there are two TDC cam events, one is when the valves are closed (basecircle), the other is during overlap. The proper location is when the valves are both closed and that cylinder is firing, thats when both cam lobes are on the basecircle. For cylinder #1, this is when the upper timing sprocket dot is at the 12oclock position. Each cylinder after that is 90 crank degrees from that, clockwise following the firing order (LS1 = 18726543). Adjust #1, then turn crankshaft 90 degrees, adjust #8, turn 90 degrees, adjust #7, turn 90...etc...
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Old Mar 31, 2007 | 12:32 PM
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I've always just torqued them all to 22ftlbs rotated and double checked. Never had a problem, ls1 rockers are self adjusting. I've done many head swaps and never an issue.
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Old Mar 31, 2007 | 01:12 PM
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Originally Posted by -Joseph-
Actually it does matter when you have a cammed LS1. If you tighten the rockers down too fast when under valve lift and don't let the lifter bleed down you can easily bend a valve if it contacts a piston. While its unlikely, its extremely possible. Stock motors don't matter as much.

Just to verify, there are two TDC cam events, one is when the valves are closed (basecircle), the other is during overlap. The proper location is when the valves are both closed and that cylinder is firing, thats when both cam lobes are on the basecircle. For cylinder #1, this is when the upper timing sprocket dot is at the 12oclock position. Each cylinder after that is 90 crank degrees from that, clockwise following the firing order (LS1 = 18726543). Adjust #1, then turn crankshaft 90 degrees, adjust #8, turn 90 degrees, adjust #7, turn 90...etc...
Thats how i do it, cyl1 on tdc compresison stroke and then each cyl 90 later.
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Old Mar 31, 2007 | 02:11 PM
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ok your right but you go to any dealership and ask them how they torque rocker arms and they will say the same thing that im saying, your right im sure that is a more accurate way to do it but it is not necesary, if it makes you feel better than keep doing it that way and ill keep doing it my way. my way has been working for me for about 4 years and it will keep working for me!
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