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When torqueing the rockers...

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Old Mar 15, 2007 | 07:53 AM
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Default When torqueing the rockers...

I put my rockers back on last night and did exactly what the ls1howto guide says but seems odd to me that you dont have to have them all TDC before you torque them to 22lbs...

Did I do it right by putting them all on w/ locktite, torqued all down to 22lbs and them turned the crank 180* and checked the torque again... Am I good to go?
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Old Mar 15, 2007 | 08:07 AM
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That's how I did it on my buddies car. No problems and he's put around 25,000 miles since.
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Old Mar 15, 2007 | 08:22 AM
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Sweet, i think it because its a hydolic roller that you can do this. Right?
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Old Mar 15, 2007 | 08:31 AM
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Originally Posted by tuffass
Sweet, i think it because its a hydolic roller that you can do this. Right?
Nope, it would be the same if it was a solid lifter.

BTW sig pic size is 500x150 max, might wana resize yours.
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Old Mar 15, 2007 | 08:46 AM
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Originally Posted by DONAIMIAN
Nope, it would be the same if it was a solid lifter.

BTW sig pic size is 500x150 max, might wana resize yours.
Better?
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Old Mar 15, 2007 | 08:52 AM
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Originally Posted by DONAIMIAN
Nope, it would be the same if it was a solid lifter.

BTW sig pic size is 500x150 max, might wana resize yours.
I've trashed some of those crappy Jesel rockers by doing this. With shaft mount rockers (solid roller stuff) it's very important to have the cylinder you're working on at TDC. The spring pressures will cause the bar to bind and tear it up. On stud rockers this doesn't appear to be a concern, unless you have really stiff springs and stand the chance of getting a bad torque reading from compressing the spring instead of torquing the rocker.

Ben T.
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Old Mar 15, 2007 | 09:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Studytime
I've trashed some of those crappy Jesel rockers by doing this. With shaft mount rockers (solid roller stuff) it's very important to have the cylinder you're working on at TDC. The spring pressures will cause the bar to bind and tear it up. On stud rockers this doesn't appear to be a concern, unless you have really stiff springs and stand the chance of getting a bad torque reading from compressing the spring instead of torquing the rocker.

Ben T.
Yeah, but I was assuming a stock rocker arm. I can see a shaft mont being totaly different for the reasons you stated. Thanks for pointing that out, cause I could see someone with a set of new shaftmount screwing them up because of that.
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Old Mar 15, 2007 | 09:12 AM
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Just for my peace of mind, I only torqued down the stock rockers with the cylinders at TDC. I figured this would help keep things consistent. It doesn't take long since the spark plugs are already out. You can do 4 rockers at a time and it only takes an extra minute or two to spin the motor in between. Once they were all on, I rotated the motor some, brought the first cylinder back to TDC, and made a second pass to check the torque. Like I said...for my peace of mind.
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Old Mar 15, 2007 | 09:24 AM
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The are the stock rockers. Not aftermarket. and i followed the instructions exact. I did check the torque after setting them all at 22 ft lbs and they are all still the same after turning 180*.

I guess my question is, Did i do this right for using the stock rockers?
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Old Mar 15, 2007 | 09:28 AM
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Yeah, that will work
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Old Mar 15, 2007 | 10:01 AM
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yep. that's what i did with my old 402... slapped them on. torqued them, rotated the motor, checked the torque, and they were good.

happy motoring
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Old Mar 15, 2007 | 10:03 AM
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Okay, cool!
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Old Mar 15, 2007 | 10:39 AM
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Originally Posted by SSpdDmon
Just for my peace of mind, I only torqued down the stock rockers with the cylinders at TDC. I figured this would help keep things consistent. It doesn't take long since the spark plugs are already out. You can do 4 rockers at a time and it only takes an extra minute or two to spin the motor in between. Once they were all on, I rotated the motor some, brought the first cylinder back to TDC, and made a second pass to check the torque. Like I said...for my peace of mind.
This is exactly like I did it too
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Old Mar 15, 2007 | 11:22 AM
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Everyone seems to do them this way, but it is not to the service manual procedure. The service manual tightens only those on the base circle, turn 360 and then tighten the rest.
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Old Mar 15, 2007 | 11:27 AM
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i did the same as vettenuts. torqued, rotated, torqued. i did mine out of the service manual.
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Old Mar 15, 2007 | 11:32 AM
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Originally Posted by vettenuts
Everyone seems to do them this way, but it is not to the service manual procedure. The service manual tightens only those on the base circle, turn 360 and then tighten the rest.
correct, base circle following sequence.
Most of the time I do TDC, crank a few times with starter check trq again. Never had an issue but had trq adjustments on certain ones.
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Old Mar 15, 2007 | 11:39 AM
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So with this discussion, I have a question...

The first time I installed my Harlands, I made sure to have #1 at TDC to check preload. After that, I simply installed the remaining pairs of rockers regardless of the cylinders being at TDC.

That being said, I'm thinking I might go back and re-move/re-install mine with all cylinders at TDC. Originally I was unaware it was an issue, but being a bit of a stickler for details, I'd like to install and torque all of them correctly.

So what is the easiest way to determine when all cylinders are at TDC? I found #1 simply by watching the springs/rockers themselves. Seems like there should be a more accurate method for this.

Or is it even that big of issue? I checked torque on all pairs at least three times and they were good. Should I go back and doing it again?

Help me out guys.

Thanks!
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Old Mar 15, 2007 | 11:46 AM
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Grab a friend and have them shove their finger in the spark plug hole. Pressure should build until the piston reaches TDC. That plus watching the valvetrain is how we did it.
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Old Mar 15, 2007 | 11:50 AM
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I do one cylinder at a time. I just hand crank the engine until the exhaust valve opens and closes and then the intake valve opens and closes. After the intake closes the piston is on the compression stroke. Once it closes i torque both rockers, hand crank a few times and get back on compression again and recheck. Then I move on to the next cylinder and do it over again.
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Old Mar 15, 2007 | 02:13 PM
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Originally Posted by brad8266
I do one cylinder at a time. I just hand crank the engine until the exhaust valve opens and closes and then the intake valve opens and closes. After the intake closes the piston is on the compression stroke. Once it closes i torque both rockers, hand crank a few times and get back on compression again and recheck. Then I move on to the next cylinder and do it over again.
Well, that was basically my thought process, but I wasn't sure. I figured there might be away to reference degrees of turning the crank. That way I wouldn't have to try and turn the crank and watch the rockers at the same time.

Might just have to get someone to give me a hand and go at re-checking them.

Thanks!
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