magazine article showed how to resleave block...
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Launching!
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 220
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From: Kenly NC, USA
magazine article showed how to resleave block... A friend at work is a stang guy(302 version).He had a ford mag that showed a company that was boring the little 4.6 modular out to 5.0.They showed the process.First they cut out the sleaves did the work heated the aluminum block.Had the new sleaves dipped in liquid nitrogen to shrink them.They removed the sleaves and placed them in place in the block and let the block cool and the sleaves warmed and expanded.That was how they had the little modular bore motor.This is ommiting the little details of course.Is this how the LS1 big bore motors are made?
Re: magazine article showed how to resleave block... Jon, yes the LS1 sleeves have a lip at the top. "dropping" a sleeve doesn't matter if there is a lip at the top, it just means that the sleeve was not inserted far enough before the top was machined off. It only takes 10,000ths of an inch to make one leak.
-Tony
-Tony
Re: magazine article showed how to resleave block... MTI has begun to do it this way. They oven the block and freeze the sleeves and slip them in. There is some kind of special ridge/groove as well, although I didnt understand the full explanation. MTI has given their blessing to me roadracing their 4.155 bore. Im not above a tiny bot of block sealant, but I need a good feeling since Im in Oregon and they are in TX ;-)
Chris
(still around ;-))
Chris
(still around ;-))
Launching!
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 291
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From: Houston
Re: magazine article showed how to resleave block... Pritty much the way it's done... If it's done with a flange or not a drop sleeve is bad.. but most times it can be fixed with more worked too the block. (surfacing) none flange sleeves still sit on a ledge and can not fall in too the block anymore than a flange sleeve.
Brent
Speedaholic
Engines & Cylinder heads.
Brent
Speedaholic
Engines & Cylinder heads.
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Re: magazine article showed how to resleave block... We judt finished sleeving the motor for the first time. You need to bore out the old liner first. When it gets real thin it can be twisted tight out. You then need to bore the aluminum block to .002" interference fit.The groove at the top is called a "counterbore". This is what the lip on top of the sleeve drops down into.Then you put the block in a kiln for 30 minutes and let it relax. Once heated the sleeves drop in and we let it cool. We left them up a 1/2 a thousand and then decked the block to clean it up. The aluminum block must have a real nice hone finish before you drop the sleeve in.
It's a time consuming process. That's where the money is. You just need a machinist who is a perfectionist!
It's a time consuming process. That's where the money is. You just need a machinist who is a perfectionist!
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