CrawlinWS6

iTrader: (41)

I don't know if it is all on the tuner. I had the same place do my t-rex in my automatic. And I didn't have to much to complain about with it. I think the fact that he doesn't understand that you have to give up some stock drivability when you get a aftermarket cam installed.

BerryWS6

iTrader: (9)

what about the CheaTR cam from Thunder Racing? stock like idle, minor tuning and much more power than a stock cam
http://www.thunderracing.com/catalog...&vid=3&pcid=51

SSpdDmon

iTrader: (10)

How can you have enough money to go back to the shop, have them pull/replace the cam, and retune it but not have enough money for some software? I'm telling you, it really shouldn't be that big of an issue. You say your O2's might be failing? That has nothing to do with the cam IMO....and everything to do with the long tubes. I wish I had a little more confidence in my ability to help you. The best thing I could do in the mean time is take a video from inside my car to show you how manageable my 232/238 .595/.605 112LSA cam is. Hell, I didn't even do the whole SD tune until last night. The original tuner (who sucked at driveability) tuned it with the injector tables. After three 30-minute drives last night, I've got my AFR in the 13.5~14.5 range at part throttle and 12.2-12.8 range at WOT running without the MAF. This tuning thing isn't really that hard and kind of fun once you get into it. I could definitely get you started in the right direction and you could make that cam more fun than the stocker if you wanted to invest the time. It's really a shame to hear you say you want to go back...

brad8266

iTrader: (23)

^^^ Getting a stock cam back in there is going to cost way more than it will cost to just pick up HP tuners and tune it yourself which isnt that hard once you get into it.

To fix your surging at low RPM's you want to pull fuel and up the timing in the cells where you are surging at. Oh yeah and ditch the MAF if you havent done so yet, Speed Density is the way to go with a cam. With HPT you can get it with a Speed Density OS so that it will completely remove the MAF fron the PCM too.

TheBlurLS1

iTrader: (8)

If you remove the cam for a stocker, you will be forever banished from LS1tech.

There are SO many things you can do with tuning software, you have no idea. You can make the car idle at 1500rpms until you come to a complete stop, at which point it will rest back down to whatever idle you want it to sit at. You can adjust the warm startup problem by simply making the IAC motor open a little farther when the car is off. You can do these things as simply as highlighting a line of numbers, typing in a number, and clicking the + sign.

The problem with most "dyno tunes" is they only make the car safe to drive at WOT, and don't pay much attention to the driveability.

Half of hotrodding is about running into problems and overcoming them. There's been plenty of times when I wanted to put my **** up for donation and have someone come haul it off.

jmm98LS1

iTrader: (28)

Don't quit bud. You've heard over & over that 100% of your problems are in your tune. You've got offers from several guys on here that'll help you tune it if you pick up software (I'll help ya if you get HPT), now take advantage of that.

marthastewart

iTrader: (1)

I dont think he will listen to 100% of the suggestions to not go back to stock, soooo. How much for the cam? Hell I will do the swap for free, my stock cam for that one! You will feel bad when I get it running right though.

brad8266

iTrader: (23)

That is so true. My cam is a little bit bigger and it runs just fine, that 228/232 would be pretty easy to get running right.

TORCHD 02 TA

iTrader: (39)

i am getting a deal putting the stock one back. Plus the tuner has my original file before he even touched the car. So stock cam and stock tune.

I am debating on doing a 224. the shop will give me a break on that.. Install and tune..

I dunno. And Jay i know that i have to sacrfice some stuff. bucking, hesitation idle dip and warm starts failing are not normal.

Casey for some reason my IAC will not reset at all. replaced the sensor and nothing changed. I think that my puter has a bad driver.

So it is still on the table as to what i am doing........

SSpdDmon

iTrader: (10)

I can fix all of that and 90-95% of the bucking. A cam is going to naturally have some buckin under 1600rpms. I've been futzing with mine off and on since I just took it out of it's winter "nest." I don't think the bucking will be 100% gone when I'm finished. But, it's sure a hell of a lot better compared to when I got it from the previous owner who had a "pro" tune it. This morning on the drive into work, it was more than manageable enough to let me keep it in gear from 1200rpms on up. Maybe 3~4 times I had to put the clutch in to help it quit some light bucking. But, that was over a 30-minute commute to work.

Besides, the final quick fix for the under-1600rpm driving lies in the beauty that you have an M6. Just drop down a gear....

TORCHD 02 TA

iTrader: (39)

Yea it bucks between 1600 and 1700 RPMs. And it also bucks around 2400 RPMs. And yea i have an M6 car, but when i drop it down a gear, there goes my gas.... Like i said, i am at 110 miles and like 2 mm away from 1/4 tank. The LTFTs look good. A:F is great so i think that it is my 02s that are failing

jbuckweiser

#1. I would go to another TUNER in your area and get it retuned. If your not
satisfied this time take it back to your original shop.

#2. If not satisfied with #1 then have the 224 installed and drive outta there
before they can tune it !

jimmypop13

iTrader: (17)

TR230 is a great cam too! A step up from the 224/224 and still has great driveability

justin quick

iTrader: (5)

Damn! I have been keeping up with this thread and some of your other threads in the tuning section, since i am interested in this cam for my 02 SS but, on a 114 lsa. I have realy been hopeing that things would work out for ya. However, I know where your coming from as far as just saying screw it and just going back to stock. Any time I have any problems with my car its all I can think about and it ruins my day, week, or month. If my car isnt running rite then im not going to feel rite. If your finally fed up with the cam/tuneing issues I say sell the cam only. keep your valvetrain, pushrods, and stuff, and swap for a 228R from TSP. I had that cam in my 98 SS and loved it. Made great power from about 1800 rpms all the way to the top. Think I had my limiter set at 6500. With minimal tuning it had great daily driveability and I had excellent gas milage even with full bolt ons and a 3200 stall.

Rob98LS1

iTrader: (5)

Have you ever considered maybe stepping up your gear to a 3.73? I think that would also help with the surging when in high gear. I know you still want the best gas mileage as well that's why I didn't suggest 4.10's.

TORCHD 02 TA

iTrader: (39)

hey man you want it is going to be for sale.. ohh wait you want it on a 114

TORCHD 02 TA

iTrader: (39)

yes. a gear will take care of some of the bucking. But not the idle dip and warm start..

VIPRETR2

iTrader: (63)

What are you going to do when your "tuner" can't get the 224 cam to idle right? Just take SSpdDmon up on his offer, you have very little to lose and everything to gain.

CNTLSE 1

iTrader: (11)

Sally

marthastewart

iTrader: (1)

Here is another suggestion that I dont think you can beat. Find a tuner that guarantees the car will run right or your money back. We have a local guy that if your not happy with your car when he is done tuning, he puts it back to how it was and charges you nothing. I dont think anyone has complained yet.