Pulley's being a bitch...
#1
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Pulley's being a bitch...
I've been heating this damn thing in the oven for almost an hour off and on between 200-250* and it wont even slightly go onto the crankshaft. I even heated it w/ a blow torch for about 5 minutes and tried and NODDA damn thing!
Am I doing something wrong here?
I do have a longer lont but I dont have a large enough washer for it that will grip the pulley...
I now have the oven at 300* and have been heating for about 12 minutes. Just tried again and stil wont budge.
Am I doing something wrong here?
I do have a longer lont but I dont have a large enough washer for it that will grip the pulley...
I now have the oven at 300* and have been heating for about 12 minutes. Just tried again and stil wont budge.
#3
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I think this was the toughest part of my entire cam swap this weekend...my went on about 1/4 inch with ease, then I had to "tap" it with a "small" hammer and a block of wood over the pulley. After I got about 9 turns from the crank bolt I used that to get it the rest of the way on...I've got a March Underdrive pulley though.
#4
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Heating it don't make it slide right on. It just makes it easier. Do a search here for 618HAWK. He makes an awesome tool to install the pulley. I have one a friend made for me, it works great.
#7
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Just buy the longer bolt at NAPA. Put the pulley on there as far as you can, then crank it on down with the longer bolt. Finish installing it completely with the old bolt.
Worked fine for me...
Worked fine for me...
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#8
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Originally Posted by GuitsBoy
Go find a washer, or better yet, see if anyone local has the threaded rod install tool. Dont take chances with the pulley or you just might be drilling out a broken crank bolt. It aint fun!
#9
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Originally Posted by marv
Just buy the longer bolt at NAPA. Put the pulley on there as far as you can, then crank it on down with the longer bolt. Finish installing it completely with the old bolt.
Worked fine for me...
Worked fine for me...
Ben T.
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I thought metal expanded when heated and shrunk when cold??? Wouldn't a hot motor/crank plus a cold/frozen pulley be the best for getting it to slide in??? Or am I completely picturing the wrong thing in my head???
BTW - Here's the LS1HowTo for those that missed it...
BTW - Here's the LS1HowTo for those that missed it...
Seat your pulley back onto the snout of the crankshaft as best you can by hand. If you purchased a longer crank bolt, start threading this in now and pull the pulley on about a 1/4 or 1/2 an inch and remove the longer bolt. Use your old stock crank pulley bolt to pull the pulley onto the crankshaft until the bolt seems to get impossible to turn. Grab your biggest torque wrench and attempt to torque that bolt down to 240lbft. I have always stopped at 200lbft on my installs and I've never had a problem, so if you can't hit 240 (which I never have), don't worry about it. Now, break the bolt free and remove it.
Take your NEW crank pulley bolt and thread it in all the way by hand. Torque this bolt to 37lbft. Now, we need to stretch the bolt into place. Get your breaker bar and pipe extension, and try to turn the bolt 140degrees past where it is at now, keeping in mind the engine will be trying to turn some and those are degrees you can't count. Again, I always seem to get about 90-100 degrees worth (estimating, knowing what 90 degrees looks like) and leave it as is so don't worry about going crazy here.
Once the pulley is installed, the timing cover should be nice and centered around it, so we can now tighten all 10 of those timing cover bolts. Torque them to 18lbft on the bolts you can get a torque wrench on, and just make the others you can't get the wrench on about as tight as those. Reinstall the A/C belt at this time.
Take your NEW crank pulley bolt and thread it in all the way by hand. Torque this bolt to 37lbft. Now, we need to stretch the bolt into place. Get your breaker bar and pipe extension, and try to turn the bolt 140degrees past where it is at now, keeping in mind the engine will be trying to turn some and those are degrees you can't count. Again, I always seem to get about 90-100 degrees worth (estimating, knowing what 90 degrees looks like) and leave it as is so don't worry about going crazy here.
Once the pulley is installed, the timing cover should be nice and centered around it, so we can now tighten all 10 of those timing cover bolts. Torque them to 18lbft on the bolts you can get a torque wrench on, and just make the others you can't get the wrench on about as tight as those. Reinstall the A/C belt at this time.
Last edited by SSpdDmon; 03-16-2007 at 11:36 AM.
#14
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Originally Posted by SSpdDmon
I thought metal expanded when heated and shrunk when cold??? Wouldn't a hot motor/crank plus a cold/frozen pulley be the best for getting it to slide in??? Or am I completely picturing the wrong thing in my head???
#16
Originally Posted by SSpdDmon
I thought metal expanded when heated and shrunk when cold??? Wouldn't a hot motor/crank plus a cold/frozen pulley be the best for getting it to slide in??? Or am I completely picturing the wrong thing in my head???
BTW - Here's the LS1HowTo for those that missed it...
BTW - Here's the LS1HowTo for those that missed it...
I believe you are correct! I put my ballancer in the freezer....Then did the old 2x4 and a hammer! WORKED MINT.....7000 miles says the berings are fine!
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Originally Posted by 01LS6SS
I believe you are correct! I put my ballancer in the freezer....Then did the old 2x4 and a hammer! WORKED MINT.....7000 miles says the berings are fine!
Ben T.
#18
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Originally Posted by 01LS6SS
I believe you are correct! I put my ballancer in the freezer....Then did the old 2x4 and a hammer! WORKED MINT.....7000 miles says the berings are fine!
Never hammer on the pulley, it is like hammering on the crank.
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Originally Posted by Studytime
It would have worked 100 times better if you EITHER had put your car in a freezer OR put the pulley in an oven. You did it completely backwards.
Ben T.
Ben T.