SSilver

Well I had this idea to buy an iron block and have it bored to 4.100 with a stock length rods and crank which would make it a 382 all bore, correct??

Well If I went ahead and got the clock and had it bored, I could save up and get a forged crank, forged rods, and pistons. I'd shoot for like 11-11.5:1 comp. and have a solid motor that I could run spray.

Am I overlooking anything? I know a forged crank will cost fortune but I'd want this to be bulletproof. Also my idea is to build up the whole bottom end on the iron block and build the top end i.e. heads and cam on the engine thats in the car and switch everything over when the iron block goes in.

What kind of numbers would a forged 382 setup with like a TR 224 cam and stage 2 LS6 heads run with 11.5:1 comp?

Thanks

Collin

sleepersilverado

iTrader: (1)

you said solid motor you mean a strong motor or a solid lifter motor? If you mean solid lift you are going to need some diffrent parts. I am sure you know that though. Wathc your wording.

SSilver

oops didn't even realize I said solid. What I meant is that I just want a bulletproof motor not a solid roller.

LS171Malibu

Can you safely go a hundred over on the 6.0?

SSilver

I think I have seen people go to a 4.100 bore and stock stroke would make a 382 and a 4.125 bore and stock stroke would make a 396....