How to break-in new LS1
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From: Troy, AL
Re: How to break-in new LS1 You'll get alot opinions varying from give it hell from the get-go all the way to don't get it over 1/2 throttle for the first 5000 miles.
My opinion? These engines don't require a majorly elaborate break-in. Just use good common sense. No WOT for a 100 miles or so. Then, no high RPMS (5000+) for another 400. After that, change the oil and drive it like you want to.
Again, the above are all opinions of mine.
My opinion? These engines don't require a majorly elaborate break-in. Just use good common sense. No WOT for a 100 miles or so. Then, no high RPMS (5000+) for another 400. After that, change the oil and drive it like you want to.
Again, the above are all opinions of mine.
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From: CLARKSVILLE,TN
Re: How to break-in new LS1 I'm sure this'll add a few more posts but I'd run regular oil in it for the first two or so changes so the rings can wear in then switch to synthetic to free up a few horses. I also totally agree with 500 easy miles then give it <img border="0" alt="[devil]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_devil.gif" /> . Just my $.02
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From: Troy, AL
Re: How to break-in new LS1 You and I think alike. When I change it at 500 I'll be using dino oil again just to speed the break-in process. I'll change it over to synthetic at about 3000 miles. From there on out oil changes come about every 5000 miles. That's the biggest reason I run synthetic. I feel it's OK to go 5000 miles (or more) between oil changes and I don't feel comfortable doing that with dino oil. Either gets dirty but dino oil breaks down much quicker.
Staging Lane
Joined: Dec 2001
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From: Corpus Christi, Texas
Re: How to break-in new LS1 You will hear lots of different opinions, but mine are as above, plus,
don't hold a constant rpm for more than a couple minutes for the first 500 miles,
change the filter at 500 miles to catch any little pieces,
change the oil at 1500 miles.
don't hold a constant rpm for more than a couple minutes for the first 500 miles,
change the filter at 500 miles to catch any little pieces,
change the oil at 1500 miles.
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From: las vegas, nev
Re: How to break-in new LS1 i might as well be the first devil's advocate <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />
i ran my car WOT twice on the test drive alone, and nothing changed after i got it home. car seems to run fine still with a little over 21,000 miles in a little over a year <img border="0" alt="[devil]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_devil.gif" />
i ran my car WOT twice on the test drive alone, and nothing changed after i got it home. car seems to run fine still with a little over 21,000 miles in a little over a year <img border="0" alt="[devil]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_devil.gif" />
Launching!
Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Chesapeake, VA
Re: How to break-in new LS1 Dyno oil for the first 2K miles, after that synthetic. Change oil at 500 miles, 2K miles, and then every 3-5K after that. EVERY time you drive the car you wait for it to get all the way up to temp before you get on it (anything over 2500 RPM). I would beat the ever-living **** out of it from mile 1. Seat those rings, seal those bores. That's my opinion, take it for what you want.
-kris
-kris
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Teching In
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From: Amarillo, TX
Re: How to break-in new LS1 I started using Mobil 1 Synthetic from the very start. And I changed the oil at 500 miles and used Mobil 1 Synthetic again. Is this going to be ok on the engine?
Thanks.
Thanks.
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Re: How to break-in new LS1 </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Colonel:
<strong>You and I think alike. When I change it at 500 I'll be using dino oil again just to speed the break-in process. I'll change it over to synthetic at about 3000 miles. From there on out oil changes come about every 5000 miles. That's the biggest reason I run synthetic. I feel it's OK to go 5000 miles (or more) between oil changes and I don't feel comfortable doing that with dino oil. Either gets dirty but dino oil breaks down much quicker.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Two things, first of all the oil doesn't break down, the additives do. 2nd, How the hell do YOU rack up 5000 miles going 1/4 mile at a time??! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> hehehe I dunno about you but I've never seen a motor or ANY kind make 20,000 drag passes ;-)
<strong>You and I think alike. When I change it at 500 I'll be using dino oil again just to speed the break-in process. I'll change it over to synthetic at about 3000 miles. From there on out oil changes come about every 5000 miles. That's the biggest reason I run synthetic. I feel it's OK to go 5000 miles (or more) between oil changes and I don't feel comfortable doing that with dino oil. Either gets dirty but dino oil breaks down much quicker.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Two things, first of all the oil doesn't break down, the additives do. 2nd, How the hell do YOU rack up 5000 miles going 1/4 mile at a time??! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> hehehe I dunno about you but I've never seen a motor or ANY kind make 20,000 drag passes ;-)
Teching In
Joined: Sep 2002
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From: Tempe, Az
Re: How to break-in new LS1 This is for TX99z28.....
What went wrong with the first engine? I have a 2002... bought it as a present for myself.... not happy. At 7 months, under 7000 miles, the engine was rebuilt for knocking. Dealer tore apart my whole front end, without consulting me first, ordered new psitons with tefelon skirts and re-bored the cylinders to match the new pistons. Rode ok for a bit now at 12,000 miles and ten months the knocking is back. Yes, it knocks when cold but also when hot if you listen carefully. Now GM tells me the knock is inherient to the engine and it will not hurt the car. So why tear apart a new car? I don't want a engine that was put back by hand rather than the assembly line with machines that don't forget to put in all the screws or not torque the screws to spec. Now GM is going to put in a long block on the car. Anyone else have knocking when cold? IS it really not a big thing or is GM just trying to make me go away?
Thanks for any help.
<img border="0" alt="[Camaro]" title="" src="graemlins/camaro.gif" />
What went wrong with the first engine? I have a 2002... bought it as a present for myself.... not happy. At 7 months, under 7000 miles, the engine was rebuilt for knocking. Dealer tore apart my whole front end, without consulting me first, ordered new psitons with tefelon skirts and re-bored the cylinders to match the new pistons. Rode ok for a bit now at 12,000 miles and ten months the knocking is back. Yes, it knocks when cold but also when hot if you listen carefully. Now GM tells me the knock is inherient to the engine and it will not hurt the car. So why tear apart a new car? I don't want a engine that was put back by hand rather than the assembly line with machines that don't forget to put in all the screws or not torque the screws to spec. Now GM is going to put in a long block on the car. Anyone else have knocking when cold? IS it really not a big thing or is GM just trying to make me go away?
Thanks for any help.
<img border="0" alt="[Camaro]" title="" src="graemlins/camaro.gif" />
Re: How to break-in new LS1 </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Ackattack:
<strong>I've used Mobil 1 since new and no problems. Heck, that is what GM puts in them, so it must be OK.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">... uh... GM also puts in the 10 bolt, and the plastic interior, and they aren't OK at all <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />
<strong>I've used Mobil 1 since new and no problems. Heck, that is what GM puts in them, so it must be OK.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">... uh... GM also puts in the 10 bolt, and the plastic interior, and they aren't OK at all <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />
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From: New Hampshire
Re: How to break-in new LS1 LA Girl......
Yes, the piston slap is somewhat inherent, ant sounds like that's what you have (quiets down as it warms up). Our engines can be built to NOT have piston slap, but that's not gonna happen at the dealer.
I'd say .... take the new long block & then don't let them touch it again, and just deal with it.
I declined having either the new rings (for oil consumption) or the pistons (or even a short or long block) put in because there is NO WAY I want those dealer buggers pulling my whole front end & engine apart!
I've had the piston slap since new, yes it's more pronounced now @ 60,000 miles & 10 road race days .... but it runs great (back at about 5,000 miles & before any mods it ran 13.299 on a slippery night).
It does use a moderate amount of oil (not as much as some, but more than is acceptable) ... on a track day I will use at least a quart in a total of about 80 miles of lapping.
<small>[ September 30, 2002, 05:58 PM: Message edited by: M3EATER ]</small>
Yes, the piston slap is somewhat inherent, ant sounds like that's what you have (quiets down as it warms up). Our engines can be built to NOT have piston slap, but that's not gonna happen at the dealer.
I'd say .... take the new long block & then don't let them touch it again, and just deal with it.
I declined having either the new rings (for oil consumption) or the pistons (or even a short or long block) put in because there is NO WAY I want those dealer buggers pulling my whole front end & engine apart!
I've had the piston slap since new, yes it's more pronounced now @ 60,000 miles & 10 road race days .... but it runs great (back at about 5,000 miles & before any mods it ran 13.299 on a slippery night).
It does use a moderate amount of oil (not as much as some, but more than is acceptable) ... on a track day I will use at least a quart in a total of about 80 miles of lapping.
<small>[ September 30, 2002, 05:58 PM: Message edited by: M3EATER ]</small>
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From: Ft. Lauderdale, FL, USA
Re: How to break-in new LS1 500 miles.
But during those 500 use every different throttle position. Just don't go WOT for more than 2-3 seconds. On the highway change from D to OD, don't stay at one set rpm for more than 5 minutes.
Then ring that bitch out <img border="0" alt="[devil]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_devil.gif" />
But during those 500 use every different throttle position. Just don't go WOT for more than 2-3 seconds. On the highway change from D to OD, don't stay at one set rpm for more than 5 minutes.
Then ring that bitch out <img border="0" alt="[devil]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_devil.gif" />
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From: Brentwood, Ca
Re: How to break-in new LS1 Hey LA girl, I had somewhat of a problem you started w/. I bought a brand new 2001 T/A back in 2000. Had it for some time(3k miles) after I heard a slapping or knocking sound (whatever you wanna call it) coming from the engine. I was told by the dealer that it was coming from the cats. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Razz]" src="gr_tounge.gif" /> Visit after visit is was evident that they were scared to touch the internals. I also had a few other f-body buddies tell me that it was normal for a mild slapping sound to occur. I had it for another 15k miles before I traded in for my silver T/A. I only have 3k miles and I'm heraing the same noise in this one! So I think it's normal for sure. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />
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From: Wylie, TX
Re: How to break-in new LS1 </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Skizzy:
<strong>i left the dealer ship sideways.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Ditto....AND she's still running good...even with Mr.NX under the hood.
<strong>i left the dealer ship sideways.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Ditto....AND she's still running good...even with Mr.NX under the hood.
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From: Mississauga, Ontario
Re: How to break-in new LS1 </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by BIGBOS:
<strong>I've also noticed that the more stout cars have been beaten on from the get go...</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I believe this too. I beat the snot out of mine right from day one. With 50 miles on the clock I had my first highway race, and redlined it in 4th gear beating up on a Mustang. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" /> Then a week later with 700 miles on it, I made 16 quarter mile runs. People to this day are still impressed that my 98 Formula ran 12.68 at 110.6 with just the following mods:
4.10s and drag radials
ported stock MAF
MTI airbox
HPP3 programming
cutout
<strong>I've also noticed that the more stout cars have been beaten on from the get go...</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I believe this too. I beat the snot out of mine right from day one. With 50 miles on the clock I had my first highway race, and redlined it in 4th gear beating up on a Mustang. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" /> Then a week later with 700 miles on it, I made 16 quarter mile runs. People to this day are still impressed that my 98 Formula ran 12.68 at 110.6 with just the following mods:
4.10s and drag radials
ported stock MAF
MTI airbox
HPP3 programming
cutout