jtsc23

Anyone out there with a TR224/112LSA and a MAFT - how much change on the base/WOT settings? I have a 2001 M6 SS w/lid, loudmouth, and 160 theromstat. When I first put the MAFT on (lid only on car), I ran the car at the 5% rich on base and left the WOT at stock. The car had better throttle response and was seat of the pants faster. After installing the loudmouth, I set base/WOT back to stock settings as the car ran to rich. Now I'm installing the cam this weekend and would like a rough idea of where to set the MAFT. I am expecting the car to run rich. Anyone know if it's possible to lean the base out so I don't have enlarge the TB hole to 3/16"? Would rather not drill it. Thanks all.

Fulton 1

iTrader: (9)

jon, here's how I approached it when I installed my hotcam last year (2000SS, M6):

1) checked IAC counts. This was a no-brainer since it would barely idle. You're likely not going to be able to avoid drilling the TB to bring the IAC down. Fully warm 25-35 should be good. Mine works better at around 15-20 for some reason.

2) put a couple hundred miles on the new setup and monitored my average Ltrims (I did fuel cells 1-19, but others have stated that some of those cells are not valid for part throttle - this has worked well for me though). Then adjusted my MAFT base accordingly.

3) monitered WOT O2's and adjusted MAFT WOT accordingly (a wideband would be better). My O2's sit around .890-.900 average. Any less and I get minor KR so I figure I'm about where I want to be. hoping to wideband soon an confirm.

4) messed around with MAF ends, timing tricker, HPP3, plugs, etc., to try and pick up timing and adjusted MAFT as I went (one variable at a time). LS1Edit would have been better had it been around then.

This was my progression and I think it worked out well.

HTH

jtsc23

I plan on getting LS1edit come Feb or March. I wanted to have someone else do a little dynoing tuning(especially raising that damn rev limiter <img border="0" title="" alt="[Mad]" src="gr_images/icons/mad.gif" /> ) on it until then, but now my whole test engineering division was laid off <img border="0" title="" alt="[Sad]" src="gr_sad.gif" /> . So now I need to find a cheap (read free!) way to do this stuff. Can I use a multimeter to pick off the counts? If so where do I pick up the voltages at - right off the idle air control valve at the throttle body? I assume the same thing for reading the O2 sensors - off the back of the sensor. Also what is your take on descreening the MAF - will it diminsh throttle tip-in? The loss of low end torque when switching the cam may amplify this. I know it is a no buck way to lean the engine out a little bit, but being an engineer type I know the purpose of the screens.
So no way around drilling the TB hole bigger? I just do not want to modify any of the stock parts - have no problem bolting on replacement parts. But I have all my stock parts wrapped up and stored cause I know my special order stripped option SS will be very valuable in 20 years <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> Thanks for the help. And keep the replies rolling in.

jtsc23

Oh and a couple more thoughts - do I need to round up a torque angle wrench or is there a agreed upon ft/lb or N/m spec for the balancer bolt? Need to heat cycle the valve springs a couple times (Isky 295's)or just beat it right away? If I crank the piston to TDC for each cylinder can I get away without pressurizing each cylinder to hold the valves up when changing the springs. Thanks.

LS1derfull

Yes you need torque angle tool, i reused my crank bolt, i just marked it before loosening and retightened it to same mark. 10,000 miles and no trouble fwiw. Yes you need to heat up springs and cool off completely before revving motor up. Yes you can put piston on tdc and change springs, just pay attention to firing order as you turn motor over. Remeber to get head bolt holes clean and dry before clamping heads down or you will have a problem. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />