Replacement Engine Advice
10-07-2002, 04:32 PM
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Replacement Engine Advice I may need to replace my engine before long and would like to get some feedback from the LS1 world. Here is my situation and thoughts:
-Car is a 2002 WS-6, A-4 - driven daily and bracket raced sometimes on weekends.
-Reliability, driveability, and consistency more important than low ET's - don't want to run below low 12's - no rollbar desired.
-Don't want to go lower than 3.42 gears and not higher than 3000 or so stall.
-Will not see much above 6,000 RPM.
-Need to keep cats and don't even want to run headers if possible.
-Can't stress reliability enough - want to race on Saturday and not worry about how I will get to work on Monday. I want it bullet-proof!!!!
I was thinking about an ARE 346 Street Eliminator with optional Stage 1 heads and compatible mild cam, or, if that won't do it, an ARE 385 small bore stroker with Stage 1 heads and mild cam.
Any input? Thanks!
Bret
-Car is a 2002 WS-6, A-4 - driven daily and bracket raced sometimes on weekends.
-Reliability, driveability, and consistency more important than low ET's - don't want to run below low 12's - no rollbar desired.
-Don't want to go lower than 3.42 gears and not higher than 3000 or so stall.
-Will not see much above 6,000 RPM.
-Need to keep cats and don't even want to run headers if possible.
-Can't stress reliability enough - want to race on Saturday and not worry about how I will get to work on Monday. I want it bullet-proof!!!!
I was thinking about an ARE 346 Street Eliminator with optional Stage 1 heads and compatible mild cam, or, if that won't do it, an ARE 385 small bore stroker with Stage 1 heads and mild cam.
Any input? Thanks!
Bret
10-07-2002, 11:00 PM
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Re: Replacement Engine Advice </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by BLK02WS6:
<strong>I may need to replace my engine before long and would like to get some feedback from the LS1 world. Here is my situation and thoughts:
-Car is a 2002 WS-6, A-4 - driven daily and bracket raced sometimes on weekends.
-Reliability, driveability, and consistency more important than low ET's - don't want to run below low 12's - no rollbar desired.
-Don't want to go lower than 3.42 gears and not higher than 3000 or so stall.
-Will not see much above 6,000 RPM.
-Need to keep cats and don't even want to run headers if possible.
-Can't stress reliability enough - want to race on Saturday and not worry about how I will get to work on Monday. I want it bullet-proof!!!!
I was thinking about an ARE 346 Street Eliminator with optional Stage 1 heads and compatible mild cam, or, if that won't do it, an ARE 385 small bore stroker with Stage 1 heads and mild cam.
Any input? Thanks!
Bret</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Just curious, why do you need a new engine? Your 2002 engine is already worn out? or did you get a lemon?
Anyway, I will try to give some input on your other questions:
If you want reliability, driveability, consistency and don't want to run quicker than low 12's (so rollbar not required)
Forget the 385 stroker for sure, some people run in the 11's with just bolt ons! You don't need to spend that kind of money to run low 12's reliably.
I would keep the 3.23 gears you have if you don't want to go bigger than 3.42 - 3.42 would be a waste of time.
I know you said you didn't want to go above 3000 stall speed, but I would get a Super Yank 3500 - it hits pretty soft off the line compared to others - this would give you better consistency at the track.
Oh this brings up tires - with a SY3500 you could probably run consistently at the track with Nitto Drag Radials, as well as drive them on the street.
I would recommend a "medium" cam like a TR220 - 114 (with tuning).
I would also get long tube headers (with cats if you want) You are going to leave a lot on the table if you get a decent cam and possibly heads with the stock exhaust manifolds.
Stage 1 heads if you want to spend the money, but probably not necessary.
In addition some of the simple bolt on mods - lid, cutout, underdrive pulley, etc.
Good luck, sorry if I rambled...
<strong>I may need to replace my engine before long and would like to get some feedback from the LS1 world. Here is my situation and thoughts:
-Car is a 2002 WS-6, A-4 - driven daily and bracket raced sometimes on weekends.
-Reliability, driveability, and consistency more important than low ET's - don't want to run below low 12's - no rollbar desired.
-Don't want to go lower than 3.42 gears and not higher than 3000 or so stall.
-Will not see much above 6,000 RPM.
-Need to keep cats and don't even want to run headers if possible.
-Can't stress reliability enough - want to race on Saturday and not worry about how I will get to work on Monday. I want it bullet-proof!!!!
I was thinking about an ARE 346 Street Eliminator with optional Stage 1 heads and compatible mild cam, or, if that won't do it, an ARE 385 small bore stroker with Stage 1 heads and mild cam.
Any input? Thanks!
Bret</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Just curious, why do you need a new engine? Your 2002 engine is already worn out? or did you get a lemon?
Anyway, I will try to give some input on your other questions:
If you want reliability, driveability, consistency and don't want to run quicker than low 12's (so rollbar not required)
Forget the 385 stroker for sure, some people run in the 11's with just bolt ons! You don't need to spend that kind of money to run low 12's reliably.
I would keep the 3.23 gears you have if you don't want to go bigger than 3.42 - 3.42 would be a waste of time.
I know you said you didn't want to go above 3000 stall speed, but I would get a Super Yank 3500 - it hits pretty soft off the line compared to others - this would give you better consistency at the track.
Oh this brings up tires - with a SY3500 you could probably run consistently at the track with Nitto Drag Radials, as well as drive them on the street.
I would recommend a "medium" cam like a TR220 - 114 (with tuning).
I would also get long tube headers (with cats if you want) You are going to leave a lot on the table if you get a decent cam and possibly heads with the stock exhaust manifolds.
Stage 1 heads if you want to spend the money, but probably not necessary.
In addition some of the simple bolt on mods - lid, cutout, underdrive pulley, etc.
Good luck, sorry if I rambled...
10-08-2002, 04:44 PM
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Re: Replacement Engine Advice The reason is only a maybe right now, but I want to be prepared for the worst.
I did get a bad one - nothing but trouble since the day I got it - rearend went out, body panels falling off, now engine noise (knocking and valvetrain).
Don't get me wrong, I love it when nothing is broken and plan to keep it - I'll just end up building it the way GM should have built it in the first place.
It is under warranty, but they have had the car in the dealer a week and I am getting resistance on a new engine. I'm not sure what they are going to do, but they have talked of just giving it back to me the way it is.
I figure the money I would spend trying to bring a lawsuit against the corporate machine would be better spent building my car the way it should be.
Thanks for your input. The reason I was thinking of the 385 was because I knew it would be built to last and becasue strokers build lots of torque (good for a heavy car with high gears). I doubt I will go that way because of the $$$$.
The only reason I said 3.42 gears was because that is what I would get in a 12 bolt when it is needed. I would not waste the money on a new set of gears for the 10-bolt.
I have heard of people having trouble passing emissions in my state with long tubes - even with cats. I will look further into that one if they are a must.
The 3,500 stall does sound high to me, but you are not the first one to tell me that - thanks.
As for tires - I would go with another set for bracket racing (ET Streets and skinnies) to save my street stuff and save weight.
Thanks again for your input. We'll see how things go! Now look who is rambling!
I did get a bad one - nothing but trouble since the day I got it - rearend went out, body panels falling off, now engine noise (knocking and valvetrain).
Don't get me wrong, I love it when nothing is broken and plan to keep it - I'll just end up building it the way GM should have built it in the first place.
It is under warranty, but they have had the car in the dealer a week and I am getting resistance on a new engine. I'm not sure what they are going to do, but they have talked of just giving it back to me the way it is.
I figure the money I would spend trying to bring a lawsuit against the corporate machine would be better spent building my car the way it should be.
Thanks for your input. The reason I was thinking of the 385 was because I knew it would be built to last and becasue strokers build lots of torque (good for a heavy car with high gears). I doubt I will go that way because of the $$$$.
The only reason I said 3.42 gears was because that is what I would get in a 12 bolt when it is needed. I would not waste the money on a new set of gears for the 10-bolt.
I have heard of people having trouble passing emissions in my state with long tubes - even with cats. I will look further into that one if they are a must.
The 3,500 stall does sound high to me, but you are not the first one to tell me that - thanks.
As for tires - I would go with another set for bracket racing (ET Streets and skinnies) to save my street stuff and save weight.
Thanks again for your input. We'll see how things go! Now look who is rambling!
10-09-2002, 10:42 PM
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Re: Replacement Engine Advice </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by BLK02WS6:
<strong>
The only reason I said 3.42 gears was because that is what I would get in a 12 bolt when it is needed. I would not waste the money on a new set of gears for the 10-bolt.
I have heard of people having trouble passing emissions in my state with long tubes - even with cats. I will look further into that one if they are a must.
</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">2 quick comments:
1. A lot of people are putting a lot of power through the stock 10 bolt rear end with A4's, M6 guys don't have as much luck... <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" />
I don't think the 12-bolt is really necessary, and it is a lot of money $2000+. Especially if you had a softer hitting converter like a SY3500
2. Long tubes are not a must. They will help, sure, but it's not like the cam or heads and cam are going to do nothing without headers. Just to throw out some numbers, Long tube headers on a stock or near stock engine are probably worth in around 20rwhp / 20 rwtq. If you had heads and cam with stock exhaust manifolds, and then swapped in long tube headers, they would probably be worth 40+ horsepower.
<strong>
The only reason I said 3.42 gears was because that is what I would get in a 12 bolt when it is needed. I would not waste the money on a new set of gears for the 10-bolt.
I have heard of people having trouble passing emissions in my state with long tubes - even with cats. I will look further into that one if they are a must.
</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">2 quick comments:
1. A lot of people are putting a lot of power through the stock 10 bolt rear end with A4's, M6 guys don't have as much luck... <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" />
I don't think the 12-bolt is really necessary, and it is a lot of money $2000+. Especially if you had a softer hitting converter like a SY3500
2. Long tubes are not a must. They will help, sure, but it's not like the cam or heads and cam are going to do nothing without headers. Just to throw out some numbers, Long tube headers on a stock or near stock engine are probably worth in around 20rwhp / 20 rwtq. If you had heads and cam with stock exhaust manifolds, and then swapped in long tube headers, they would probably be worth 40+ horsepower.