AlonzoVersion 1.0

I have been debating on what camshaft to go with on my solid roller.I know that bigger is better in most cases but being that I do 1/4 mile blasts not topend blasts I figured a smaller cam would be in favor.I shift at 6600 and I need something that peaks at about 6100 or so and will carry it to 6600.I dont want a cam that doesnt peak untill 6600 and then have to shift at 7000+ to get the maximum out of that cam.Thats my logic with that but I could be wrong.I will be running 3.73's with a YTP 4000 converter if that is needed.Do yall see where I am coming from with this?I figure if my car is peaking sooner than Joe smoe then I should pull him even if he has more power because his is more topend oriented.Thanks everyone.

LS1derfull

I see where your coming from but your needs dont require solid roller for any reason. If you are set on getting one remember to go larger than a hydraulic for specs. Reason being with valve lash solid cam will be smaller in usage than hydr. with same specs. A 224 will peak around 6200-6300rpm.

Jason99T/A

iTrader: (21)

I agree with LS1derful. Just stick w/ a hydraulic for that size. I ran a 230/230 solid roller last year and it was about perfect for the stock bottom end. It made awesome power up to 6600 rpms. I did have to flycut the pistons for the intake valve.

Ragtop 99

iTrader: (7)

It will depend on your heads and exhaust. My 224/224 114 peaked at 6100 and was within 10 HP of peak until 6600.

Fenris Ulf

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Alonzo:
<strong>I figure if my car is peaking sooner than Joe smoe then I should pull him even if he has more power because his is more topend oriented.Thanks everyone.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Thats pretty much an erroneous assumption.
You might have a slight horsepower advantage for part of first gear, but the higher peaking and more powerful cammed car will pull past you. Numerically high gears and slicks negate the upside of a lower peaking setup.

AlonzoVersion 1.0

Well sense I already have the T&D's and the mechanical lifters and valve cover spacers I believe its to late to turn around now.I was just hoping I could slip by with a smaller cam.You dont have to have some big massive cam to run a good number fellas.I am trying to match everything on the car.No need to have heads that flow 300+cfm with a intake manifold that flows 265 and have a cam that either one cant keep up with.I dont mind maintence as its not something I drive everyday.Oh and Fenris ulf last time I checked a car with less peak HP could out do a car with more peak HP of course it could have been driver error. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> Thanks for the help ragtop99 and Jason99ta and ls1derfull.My buddy keeps telling to go 230 or bigger but we will see because like I said I believe the car will run better if everything is matched.

Richard@WCCH

iTrader: (3)

Alonzo,
Don't fool around with a 224º cam. Cut to the chase and put in the 230º . If you want a slightly bigger torque bubble, have it ground on a 110º or 112ºLSA. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />
Having lots of torque under 5250rpm is good for acceleration. Holding torque past 5250rpm will ENSURE you have good acceleration. Don't waste the solid rollers on a peanut sized cam.
Just my .02¢
Have fun with what ever you choose.
Cheers <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />
Richard <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

Fenris Ulf

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Alonzo:
<strong>No need to have heads that flow 300+cfm with a intake manifold that flows 265 and have a cam that either one cant keep up with.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">There is not some magical "cant flow any past XXX level" wall with the LS6 intake, it just becomes increasingly harder. Ported heads obviously help even with the LS6 intake in place <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

AlonzoVersion 1.0

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by headbam:
<strong>Alonzo,
Don't fool around with a 224º cam. Cut to the chase and put in the 230º . If you want a slightly bigger torque bubble, have it ground on a 110º or 112ºLSA. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />
Having lots of torque under 5250rpm is good for acceleration. Holding torque past 5250rpm will ENSURE you have good acceleration. Don't waste the solid rollers on a peanut sized cam.
Just my .02¢
Have fun with what ever you choose.
Cheers <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />
Richard <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" /> </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I am starting to lean more towards that big boy especially after seeing what Allen did with his 233/233 camshaft.We will see though.Now comes the hard part...money <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" />

wrencher

iTrader: (2)

You can change the "peak" of any cam by the way it is installed(DEGREED IN). Advance cam & you'll pick up bottom end, retard cam you'll pick up top end. I know that on ole s/b c ever degree is a shift of about 500-750 rpm in the power band.