I put this in internal since it is usually to do with a cam swap!

Need to pull the balancer for H/C swap this weekend, are the autozone pullers any good, and which should I use? They have one for "threaded pullies" then two of they typical 3-arm generic ones.

Any input?

Thanks
-Dave

 

the threaded one won't work on a stock pulley. I used a 6" 3-arm puller from oreilly's and it was very difficult to use on the stock pulley and would not fit behind the crank gear so I could change the timing chain. I probably could have flattened down the ends of the arms with a grinder and it would have worked... but I ended up borrowing a nice set of Snap-On pullers from a mechanic friend of mine.

 

I have done 2 cam swaps and 1 pulley swap with the auto zone puller.. Just use your old crank bolt.... It comes almost all the way out then you just have to wiggle the pulley off the last bit.

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by 99taws6:
<strong>I have done 2 cam swaps and 1 pulley swap with the auto zone puller.. Just use your old crank bolt.... It comes almost all the way out then you just have to wiggle the pulley off the last bit.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Autozone 6"?

I'm planning to use the old bolt both to remove the pulley (essentially extend the puller's bolt) and put the pulley back on....

Sound good?

Thanks guys
-Dave

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by xaon:
<strong>the threaded one won't work on a stock pulley. I used a 6" 3-arm puller from oreilly's and it was very difficult to use on the stock pulley and would not fit behind the crank gear so I could change the timing chain. I probably could have flattened down the ends of the arms with a grinder and it would have worked... but I ended up borrowing a nice set of Snap-On pullers from a mechanic friend of mine.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Hmm I will also be changing my timing gear.... do you remember what size puller you ended up using for that one?

-Dave

 

If you are planning on putting the stock pulley back on you should plan now and go take a crank pulley bolt to a bolt shop and tell them you need one half an inch longer. It'll cost $1 or so and it'll give you enough length to get the pulley started onto the crank snout.

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by jmX:
<strong>If you are planning on putting the stock pulley back on you should plan now and go take a crank pulley bolt to a bolt shop and tell them you need one half an inch longer. It'll cost $1 or so and it'll give you enough length to get the pulley started onto the crank snout.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Most people I've heard of just tapped it on with a hammer or mallet that 1/2" to get the clearance necessary. Anyone had a problem with doing that?

-Dave

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by 99taws6:
<strong>I have done 2 cam swaps and 1 pulley swap with the auto zone puller.. Just use your old crank bolt.... It comes almost all the way out then you just have to wiggle the pulley off the last bit.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Great, now I'm confused. Autozone has the following:

3 jaw 7" spread
2 jaw 6" spread
3 jaw unmarked, looks like 4 or 5" spread, definitely smaller jaws than either of the others.....

-Dave

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by 2001 LS1 SS:
Most people I've heard of just tapped it on with a hammer or mallet that 1/2" to get the clearance necessary. Anyone had a problem with doing that?

-Dave</font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">You could try that, but mine certainly wasnt going to get hammered on too easily, even after heating it in an oven. Buy the bolt...it'll be safer anyways because even if you do get the pulley barely started by hammering it on, those first 2 threads in the crank snout are gonna be REALLY stressed when thats all you are pulling on. The longer bolt will allow it to grab more threads.

It costs one dollar dude...take your new crankbolt you should already have from GM and tell a place to match it but make it a little longer. Took the place I went to maybe 30 seconds to find a bolt and washer.

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by jmX:
<strong> </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by 2001 LS1 SS:
Most people I've heard of just tapped it on with a hammer or mallet that 1/2" to get the clearance necessary. Anyone had a problem with doing that?

-Dave</font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">You could try that, but mine certainly wasnt going to get hammered on too easily, even after heating it in an oven. Buy the bolt...it'll be safer anyways because even if you do get the pulley barely started by hammering it on, those first 2 threads in the crank snout are gonna be REALLY stressed when thats all you are pulling on. The longer bolt will allow it to grab more threads.

It costs one dollar dude...take your new crankbolt you should already have from GM and tell a place to match it but make it a little longer. Took the place I went to maybe 30 seconds to find a bolt and washer.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Yeah I'm not worried about the $1, but "bolt shop" around here means "Home Depot". Uhh, no. If I head up to NH this week I can certainly get one, I have the new bolt already.

-Dave

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by MUSTANG HAT'R:
<strong>I had to hammer mine on, no one makes threaded rod or a bolt in the size any where near me. Not sure why your having a problem I used a 3jaw puller with either a 6" arm or spread I forget do a search on pully install you should find it.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I was gonna buy the 7" but then I figured maybe it was too big since 6" is thrown around here for this sort of thing. I didn't get any def. answer when I searched for "pulley puller" but i'll try a couple variations of "pulley swap".

-Dave

 

Yep that did it, sears $40 special it is! Gotta get some other tools there anyway.

-Dave

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by 2001 LS1 SS:
<strong> </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by jmX:
<strong> </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by 2001 LS1 SS:
Most people I've heard of just tapped it on with a hammer or mallet that 1/2" to get the clearance necessary. Anyone had a problem with doing that?

-Dave</font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">You could try that, but mine certainly wasnt going to get hammered on too easily, even after heating it in an oven. Buy the bolt...it'll be safer anyways because even if you do get the pulley barely started by hammering it on, those first 2 threads in the crank snout are gonna be REALLY stressed when thats all you are pulling on. The longer bolt will allow it to grab more threads.

It costs one dollar dude...take your new crankbolt you should already have from GM and tell a place to match it but make it a little longer. Took the place I went to maybe 30 seconds to find a bolt and washer.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Yeah I'm not worried about the $1, but "bolt shop" around here means "Home Depot". Uhh, no. If I head up to NH this week I can certainly get one, I have the new bolt already.

-Dave</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Ah, man, that sucks. Home depot obviously wont have metric stuff for you. Some vendors should sell these longer bolts. Hell, I bet if somebody stuck a GM logo on the bolt head and made up some part number like 12544393 they could sell them for $20 each as an official tool! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

My bolt has been passed around for at least 10 pulley installs in austin so far....best $1 I ever spent. Next time I'm near the bolt shop maybe I'll pick up a few and can mail them to people that need em.

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">
My bolt has been passed around for at least 10 pulley installs in austin so far....best $1 I ever spent. Next time I'm near the bolt shop maybe I'll pick up a few and can mail them to people that need em. </font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">jmX: That would be great if you could get a few. I'll be needing one shortly.

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by 2001 LS1 SS:
<strong>Yep that did it, sears $40 special it is! Gotta get some other tools there anyway.

-Dave</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Hey Dave-

Was it part # 42178 from Sears?

Thanks,
Matt

 

Do NOT use a hammer... Get the threaded rod.