2fast4u2c

I was looking into installing Only a cam into my car with just a few other basic bolt-ons. I want to know if there is anything that I absolutely have to do. I was specifically thinking of a TR 230 cam, but I don't know how well it would run on a stock car. Am I going to have to tune? or can I install the cam and get away w/o it? So far from what I've read it looks like I'm going to have to get the pcm tuned etc... How about just using a predator to tune it? Ideally I would like to know what cams if any can i run without any computer modification.

Thanks in advance for the info. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

VINCE

iTrader: (1)

You will have to tune with the TR230.. The TR220 and TR224 cam I think you can get away with a predator or Hpp3. The new B1/C1/C2/T1 cams I think you can get away with just a predator or Hpp3.

mike c.

iTrader: (1)

the tr224 cam is nice,give it a good look.

hay vince,improve those 60foots and you have an 11sec car on your hands pal.

VINCE

iTrader: (1)

It would be nice to run 11 sec's with no weight reduction.. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" /> I will try to on DR's next time..

sited12

When you say cam only, that still means you are gonna swap springs and just keep the stock heads or are you just gonna stick a new cam in it. I have wondered about this too and was leaning towards the GM hot cam. Its a great deal for cam and springs but i decided to wait and get my heads built and just swap at the same time.

LOnSLO

iTrader: (15)

I can't imagine not needing tuning on anything over a 220 duration. I gained 15 or so rwhp after my TR224/114 got tuned in. I am severely limited on the HP, simply by using the stock heads. I believe they stall out on anything over a .525 inch lift.

Fulton 1

iTrader: (9)

If you're an M6 then you can get away without doing tuning. You'll probably have to drill your throttle body hole larger to get it to idle unless you go with a really mild cam. HPP3 will allow you to raise your rev limiter to 6600 rpm which is enough for most 112 LSA cams. Its a good idea to replace the oil pump with a ported/blueprinted one and install a better timing chain set when you swap the cam (of course I'm assuming you're doing springs, pushrods, etc., as well to match the cam). Also, I'd get some form of monitoring software like AutoTap if you don't already have it. This will help afterwards to monitor IAC's, clear the inevitable P0300 codes, etc.

Bub

Just installed the TR 224 112 lsa. Idled well, lopes but doesn't surge with throttle body mod, and drove very good on the highway. However the motor seemed to have eaten itself before I got the chance to romp on it, probably a valve spring, anyway it did'nt throw a code on about the sixty or so highway miles that I put on it. I'll post more about it when the motor is fixed.

2fast4u2c

Thanks for all the input so far. To answer a couple questions... Yeah I intend to buy a "cam kit" with new springs, pushrods. I do own a m6 car if that makes it any easier. If the TR230 and 224 are a little much what do you think I could get away with without setting codes etc.. and just having a friend hook up autotap or hpp3 to raise the rev limit?

Fulton 1

iTrader: (9)

The TR224 cam on a 112LSA would work well for you IMO. Not sure about the 230 on a cam only setup. I'd contact Thunder Racing for their recommendation.

CHRISPY

230/230 would be a good cam on stock heads <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />
The added duration will be nice when the headflow starts to stall <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" /> Get Ls1 edit tuning and it'll be great <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

Cheers,
Chris