ws6rufus

iTrader: (6)

Does the extra 22 cubic inches a 0.030 over-bore 6.0 liter cast iron block gives over a 0.010 over-bore 5.7 liter (stock sleeved 3.90 bore) aluminum block off-set the extra 80lbs?

Better yet do the extra 22 cubic inches and the other cast iron block benifits out-weigh the lighter and less heat-soaked aluminum block.

1. strength
2. no sleeves
3. Head & main stud threads are actually part of block and not tread inserts(no chance of studs pulling from block)
4. less chance of detonation
5. stronger deck

This comparison is for a Turbo-charged motor in the 600 rwhp range.

I should also add that this motor will be going into a WS6 convertible which already weighs 3700lbs and with the turbo kit probably 3800lbs.
So with the iron block the car alone will weigh almost 3900lbs!!!!!

<small>[ November 10, 2002, 04:38 PM: Message edited by: ws6rufus ]</small>

taqwache

with your combo i would only go with the 6.0L block. i am not saying that the 5.7L block wont hold up but the 6.0L will probably last longer. if you look, most fast forced induction cars run the cast iron. you could get a light k-member and move the battery to the spare tire compartment to off set some of the weight.

Black LS1 T/A

From my research and discussions I've had, if you are not exceeding low 600 RWHP, you should be ok with the Aluminum block as long as your have your tuning right and avoid detonation. I believe having an Iron Block could be a step backwards in this case.

I chose to go with an Iron Block for the 422 buildup, because at some point I see close to 700 RWHP if I can ever get the fueling in place. DEFINITELY, I see an Iron Block or the C5R Aluminum block as a neccesity for anyone who may want RWHP in the mid-600's or higher.

You could get the BMR K-member and associated hardware and drop 100 pounds from your front, if you decide you require the Iron Block.

Again, I just don't see the difference between 346 and 366 CID gaining you anything. I'd prefer the Aluminum block up to a 382/383 CID, myself. Only after exceeding that would I worry about the Iron Block option. Then, if I had the money, I'd do the C5R. Otherwise, I'd go to the overbore/stroke on the Iron Block.

My 2cents. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

smokinHawk

iTrader: (48)

Im at 512 to the wheels right now on the mustang dyno, im getting .97* knock retard, i think my aluminum block will hold up for a long while.
I plan to push it as far as i can getting to the 700rwhp range (eventually). i think as long as you keep detonation away everythig will stay intact. i really didnt want to switch to the iron block right away for cost and weight sakes, trying to get my pig on a deit.
But i might plan on latter doing a 409CI build up with the Iron block trying to acheive over 700rwhp.

FASST

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Black LS1 T/A:
<strong>From my research and discussions I've had, if you are not exceeding low 600 RWHP you should be ok with the Aluminum block...I see an Iron Block or the C5R Aluminum block as a neccesity for anyone who may want RWHP in the mid-600's or higher.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">With a supercharger I'd agree, but since he's going to use a turbocharger, he's going to see a butt-load more torque, and a consistently higher level of boost (boost distribution over rpm...blah, blah blah). I'm assuming (please correct me if I'm wrong ws6rufus), but he's probably going to use a single turbo setup sized and designed in a similar manner to the LS1motorsports package. With that in mind, for him to reach 600rwhp he's probably going to be putting down close to 750rwtq...probably higher. Therefore, I'd probably suggest the iron block or the C5R block. I tend to stay on the conservative side though, so keep that in mind.

BTW, you actually want heat in the block (to a degree...you don't want to melt things) but it helps in the combustion process. You want the air coming in to be as cold as possible, but once it's inside the combustion chamber you want it to heat up (expand, effectively increasing pressure, making more power.)

<small>[ November 11, 2002, 11:52 AM: Message edited by: FASST ]</small>

ws6rufus

iTrader: (6)

I will be using the LS1 MotorSport kit with 6.0L Stage II heads and forged rods/pistons with a stock crank. Probably 12-15 pounds of boost.

I guess a stock aluminum block can handle alot of power if Harlan is making over 700 rwhp/rwtq.

<small>[ November 11, 2002, 12:35 PM: Message edited by: ws6rufus ]</small>