C_Williams

I want to move up from my heads cam motor and - 410 RWHP / 390 RWT - to a more powerful combination in the this range - 460 RWHP - 435 RWT - and have some questions.

My research has brought me to the point where I need help and I would really appreciate those with experience, to please respond.

My conclusions -

1. ARE has the most experience in the sleeving and best bare block numbers –in dollars, turn around time, warranty
2. Cometec head gaskets are reliable, easily obtained and are the lowest cost
3. Ross pistons are the most popular
4. C&A has the edge on ring sets
5. Larger cams will idle better and provide like drivability as smaller cams in small bore motors
6. In addition to good port work, heads need to be matched to the new bore to properly take advantage of the unshrouding provided by the increased bore

Questions:

1. Stock rods ( with ARP bolts) vs aftermarket I-Beam or H-Beam
2. Best cam considering I have LS6 heads with large valves and they are professionally ported – please bear in mind that I want the motor to idle NO HARSHER than the T1/TR224/Hot Cam motors
3. Any assumptions above that need tweaking, please do

Thanks in advance,

CHRISPY

hmm I would go with good rods while I was in there.

Also as far as cam specs, I think a 234/234 114LSA XE-R ~.600 lift would idle great in an all bore and still give great power with peak around 6400rpm.

You may need to step up your injector to 30# SVO's and LS1 edit tuning with WB would be a must to get the most power out of the package. ARE's racetronix Walbro pump setup would be a great idea as well. Stock pump would be marginal at that power level.

Hope this helps
Chris

<small>[ November 18, 2002, 09:43 AM: Message edited by: Chris ARE 360 ]</small>

Crazyquik

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by C5Corvette:
<strong>
Questions:

1. Stock rods ( with ARP bolts) vs aftermarket I-Beam or H-Beam
2. Best cam considering I have LS6 heads with large valves and they are professionally ported – please bear in mind that I want the motor to idle NO HARSHER than the T1/TR224/Hot Cam motors
3. Any assumptions above that need tweaking, please do
</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">NineBall's first all bore used stock rods. You'll save what, 400-800 bucks by using stock rods. Not worth it to me but maybe it is to you. I'd rather wait a month or so longer and get the extra money to do it right while I'm doing it.

I'd run a 230-235 degree cam most likely, probably on a 112 but a 114 LSA if you're really concerned about lope. A 230/114 with fast ramps in that motor would idle smoother than a HOT cam in a stock motor, probably smoother than a T1 as well...

J.

C_Williams

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Chris ARE 360:
<strong>hmm I would go with good rods while I was in there.

Also as far as cam specs, I think a 234/234 114LSA XE-R ~.600 lift would idle great in an all bore and still give great power with peak around 6400rpm.

You may need to step up your injector to 30# SVO's and LS1 edit tuning with WB would be a must to get the most power out of the package. ARE's racetronix Walbro pump setup would be a great idea as well. Stock pump would be marginal at that power level.

Hope this helps
Chris</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Thanks for the help - I will be going with Eagle Rods and will update the fuel system - are 30 lb'rs marginal or should I go larger?

C_Williams

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif"><strong>Originally posted by Crazyquik:

NineBall's first all bore used stock rods. You'll save what, 400-800 bucks by using stock rods. Not worth it to me but maybe it is to you. I'd rather wait a month or so longer and get the extra money to do it right while I'm doing it.

I'd run a 230-235 degree cam most likely, probably on a 112 but a 114 LSA if you're really concerned about lope. A 230/114 with fast ramps in that motor would idle smoother than a HOT cam in a stock motor, probably smoother than a T1 as well...

J.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Thanks..I am going with Eagle H beams and definitely a larger cam - drivability is a key characteristic that I don't want to suffer...are you saying that a 230/112 will be easier than the Hotcam or such..if so, it's for me.

How close are to my power estimates will be?

Thanks

<small>[ November 18, 2002, 07:42 PM: Message edited by: C5Corvette ]</small>