Cam install
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TECH Fanatic
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 1,101
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From: Bloomington, IN
Cam install I am doin a cam install on my 98 TA. The specs on are .583/.583 and 224/224. What else needs to be done to make this install succesful? I need new lifters cause one of mine is not holding compression, an I am also thinking pushrods. What NEEDS to be done? I am gonna port and polish my stock LS1 head at school (we have a machine that ports and polishes heads) And I am gonna dd headers and y-pipe when I get the money. Thanks.
Launching!
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 222
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From: Houston, TX
Re: Cam install Valve springs. With that lift you're going to NEED good valve springs. The new Comp 918s are supposed to be good as are the Rev dual ones (can't remember the number off hand); however, one of the Revs just failed also. I know that on the 918s you can reuse your stock retainers, so that'll save you money over having to buy new ones.
- Matt
- Matt
!Dial-up Director
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 3,100
Likes: 1
From: Louisiana
Re: Cam install I would recommend Comp 987 Dual springs. I have run them with the TR224 and TR230 cam without any issues at all. You will also need Comp titanium retainers, the correct length pushrods, new water pump gaskets, timing cover gasket, and a new crank pulley bolt.
Justin
Justin
The Bull
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 3,578
Likes: 2
From: Grand Rapids, MI
Re: Cam install My head/cam install has a bunch of links off it to other places plus some pictures. That may help you out. http://www.sigma-epsilon.org/steve/install/headcam.htm
I also worked on a Cam and Valvespring setup on a C5 last weekend. I'll have pictures for that up over Thanksgiving.
If you are changing your own valve springs here are a few words of advice. Goto Napa and buy at a spring compressor. It looks like a metal pry bar. Costs about $15, works like a champ! You'll need a metric bolt that's long enough to thread into the rocker bolt holes and a couple washers. It won't come with those.
You may want to buy some extra keepers. You may loose one or two. It's worth saving the agony of losing them by paying a few bucks for some more. Seeing that you can do it with the heads off the car this may not be a big deal.
You may also need new valve stem seals. If you need to remove the bottom spring seat then you will need to pull off the valve stem seals. I believe your 98 should have the two piece seal design. It's your choice, but I would goto a dealership and get a set of valve stem seals for both the intake and exhaust sides. One set has red rubber seals and the other is black just so you can tell the difference. Otherwise you can reuse the ones that you pull off. BTW, you get them off simply by pulling up on them. You can reuse them if you don't bend them with the pliers.
Some new head gaskets and new head bolts (don't reuse them). Plus everything else Justin and Matt mentioned. That should pretty much take care of it for you.
I also worked on a Cam and Valvespring setup on a C5 last weekend. I'll have pictures for that up over Thanksgiving.
If you are changing your own valve springs here are a few words of advice. Goto Napa and buy at a spring compressor. It looks like a metal pry bar. Costs about $15, works like a champ! You'll need a metric bolt that's long enough to thread into the rocker bolt holes and a couple washers. It won't come with those.
You may want to buy some extra keepers. You may loose one or two. It's worth saving the agony of losing them by paying a few bucks for some more. Seeing that you can do it with the heads off the car this may not be a big deal.
You may also need new valve stem seals. If you need to remove the bottom spring seat then you will need to pull off the valve stem seals. I believe your 98 should have the two piece seal design. It's your choice, but I would goto a dealership and get a set of valve stem seals for both the intake and exhaust sides. One set has red rubber seals and the other is black just so you can tell the difference. Otherwise you can reuse the ones that you pull off. BTW, you get them off simply by pulling up on them. You can reuse them if you don't bend them with the pliers.
Some new head gaskets and new head bolts (don't reuse them). Plus everything else Justin and Matt mentioned. That should pretty much take care of it for you.
TECH Addict
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,593
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From: TEXAS
Re: Cam install </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif"> I would recommend Comp 987 Dual springs </font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Does the head need machining for the dual spring?
Re: Cam install Oops, double post. (See below) <img border="0" alt="[Fluffy]" title="" src="graemlins/fluffy.gif" />
<small>[ November 20, 2002, 05:09 PM: Message edited by: SPANKY LS1 ]</small>
<small>[ November 20, 2002, 05:09 PM: Message edited by: SPANKY LS1 ]</small>
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Re: Cam install </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by felton316:
<strong> </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif"> I would recommend Comp 987 Dual springs </font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Does the head need machining for the dual spring?</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Yes, the spring pockets need to be machined for the larger diameter spring, and is relatvely cheap if the head is off (I think TEA charged me like $40 for the machine work), but the piece of mind that a double spring gives me is worth it, IMO. As an added bonus, the springs (~$80), titanium retainers (~$170), and spring pads (~$30), are not much more than single springs with tit. retainers.
<strong> </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif"> I would recommend Comp 987 Dual springs </font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Does the head need machining for the dual spring?</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Yes, the spring pockets need to be machined for the larger diameter spring, and is relatvely cheap if the head is off (I think TEA charged me like $40 for the machine work), but the piece of mind that a double spring gives me is worth it, IMO. As an added bonus, the springs (~$80), titanium retainers (~$170), and spring pads (~$30), are not much more than single springs with tit. retainers.
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