Flycutting question
The exhaust cutter didn't even hit the seats, it bound up on the chamber walls.
I ground the backside down until it sat better in the head...but after claying, it turns out I didn't even need to cut for the exhaust valve clearance anyways.
No worries, it's done and turned out just fine.
Only did the intake side on my car. Not hard to use... just need to take your time and not let debris fly into the engine.
Thimble- depending upon your mileage... you may want to have Harlan Sharp rebuild your stock rockers. Good insurance.
-Mark
Scotchbrite here as well, followed with the 3M pad they sale at the auto store.. Its been good to go with no leaking and 100 shot for a year now!
Scotchbrite here as well, followed with the 3M pad they sale at the auto store.. Its been good to go with no leaking and 100 shot for a year now!
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
Lane
Lane
The only notable thing I noticed about cutting...is when you first start the cut, since you're cutting in at an angle, the tool tends to dig in and bind up...hard...to the point you cannot turn it anymore. Although it's probably not best for the life of the tool, I found by starting the initial cut by running the tool backwards (ccw) by hand for the first few turns it helped get by that problem, once the tool was "in" and began cutting a flat surface, it then turned smoothly.
As for chip removal, I used a small shop vac with a tip that tapered down to about a pencil-sized opening. After each cut, I pulled the head off, and vac'd out the chips (which is more like dust), and checked the depth. After doing a couple cyls, you learn to gauge the depth of cut easily just by looking at the width of the eyebrow.
It really is pretty easy. Just take your time on the first cut, get a feel for the tool and the rate of material removal, and although still a little tedious with the on/off action of the head, you'll find it goes pretty quickly.
Just be very meticulous in cleanup and spin the motor over several times, cleaning/wiping out each cyl when the piston is down, and make absolutely sure you got all the chips out.
I'm not sure if all the head boltholes in the head are large enough to accommodate these. If they are, then no problem...if not, you'd just have to bore out the other lower bolthole in the "single cyl head" you created until it slid over the roll pin.
I set up the cutter in the head, placed the head on the block, then slowly rotated the engine until the piston just about touched the cutter, then cut. It worked out just fine. When I clayed the heads, the valve dropped slightly below, but still well within in the notch. I cut the notch .100" deep, clayed, and ended up with about .095" valve clearance (clay thickness).
I did not have to notch for the exhaust valve, had a ton of clearance there.



Finished this up Monday morning, car is running extremely well and strong with no issues. The power difference of the heads and added compression is amazing...a nigh and day difference from cam-only.

I use them in my body shop all the time.
On a side note, I wet sanded my deck surface on the block with 1000 grit for an ultra fine finish for sealing. And used copper gasket spray on the cometic .040" gaskets.
Also for some of you wondering. I fly cut mine to .145". I know that's a ton. But I've had no problems. And I can fit any cam size I want with a 58cc head and a .040" gasket. Just thought I would throw that out there for you guys.
I use them in my body shop all the time.
On a side note, I wet sanded my deck surface on the block with 1000 grit for an ultra fine finish for sealing. And used copper gasket spray on the cometic .040" gaskets.
Also for some of you wondering. I fly cut mine to .145". I know that's a ton. But I've had no problems. And I can fit any cam size I want with a 58cc head and a .040" gasket. Just thought I would throw that out there for you guys.
I kept referring to your pics, then looking at my cuts, then measuring, then comparing again, measuring again, and finally thinking...damn, he cut his deep.












