Hi guys, I need some advice in what to do. I have a 99 Z28 with 34k miles that recently suffered a couple of bent rods and valve springs. Since the motor has to come out to repair this, I am contemplating more ponies. It dynos 426whp with the current set up.

I want to have a minimun 500+whp, The shop that I am using has suggested the following on their estimate.



ESTIMATE
· 383-428 cu in3 LS1 ·


December 11, 2006

4.00” stroke
Stock bore
383 cu in3

Labor includes:
· Disassemble complete engine
· Clean all parts & analyze
· Degrease block
· Rebore cylinders with torque plate
· Berry hone cylinders
· Deck block to crankshaft centerline
· Grind & mill for stroker crankshaft
· Assembly clean block
· Competition valve grind
· Replace valve guides – check
· Resurface heads
· Degrease heads
· Degrease intake manifold
· Complete balance of the rotating assembly
· Polish & chamfer crankshaft
· Hone pistons to fit pins
· Install pistons onto rods
· Install & fit cam bearings
· Install expansion plugs
· Check bearing clearances – mains & rods
· Assemble complete engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $ 2,347.00

Parts consist of:
· Clevitte cam, main & rod bearings
· Eagle 4340 4.00” stroke crankshaft
· JE pistons & ring set
· Fel Pro performance gaskets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $ 2,322.07
Total . . . . . . . $ 4,669.07
· Price does not include sales tax or freight ·

Optional Upgrades
4.00” Stroke
406-428 cu in3

Larger bore with existing block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Add . . . . $ 2,503.28
· Install cylinder sleeves
· JE cylinder sleeves
· JE pistons
larger bore with new block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Add . . . $ 514.00
· LS7 block
· Install cylinder sleeves - DEDUCT
· JE cylinder sleeves - DEDUCT

Reuse Customer Parts:
Heads
Intake manifold
Valve train
Camshaft (TBD)
Head porting (TBD)


Help me decide what to do.

These are my mods.

AFR Stage 2 Heads
Comp Cam 224/228 Cam
Mac Cermic Headers
Mac Y Pipe (no cats)
Corsa Cat-Back 304 Exhaust
Underdrive Pully
Mac subframe connectors
Eibach Springs
HAL QA1 12 way adjustable shocks
BMR Front and Rear Sway Bar
BMR Rear Control Arm
BMR Adjustable Pnhard Bar

 

For that kinda power I would rebuild the engine using stock cubes, and boost it whether it be turbo or supercharger.

 

Are you suggesting this based on cost or are you a fan of boost?
I am leaning towards an all motor set up, Iron 408.

 

WTF are you sure?

 

HCI and a bottle will get you 600.

 

I like slowteal idea. Forged stock cubes, heads, cam and spray. I only have a little old 224 cam with spray and laid down 618rwhp and 673rwtq with stock bottom end.

 

I was just going off the fact that even quite a few of the big cube guys don't push much more than 500 at the wheels. Plus with the blower you could run a small cam and have great driveability, and at the same time save some weight.
Even nitrous like Nasty Hawk said on stock cubes could lay down some great #'s.

 

A friend of mine is suggesting the same approach. I do like the idea of a Turbo, I had a 300whp turbo Saab 9000t and it was lots of fun.
Any suggestions as far as a particular Turbo or SC?

 

whats the budget?? thats the first question.
You cant just post a question like that without giving us the budget constraints and get an educated answer.
You can do any number of combinations to achieve that goal at a huge desperity in costs.

HOW MUCH DO YOU HAVE TO SPEND?

 

call Vengeance Racing and talk to them about their 575hp package, they are a sponser. they been getting incredible numbers from stock cubes from every thread i've been reading on them.

 

I hear ya, I have 6-8k in mind but also I have to factor I am on the stock clutch and rear.

 

First of all, what do you have now??? You mention it dyno'd 426 hp so you obviously already have some mods. Secondly, make sure this is shop that either specializes or is at least competent with the late model LS motors. Most of the old school machine shops will not even have an LS compatible torque plate (though I have been told by the old shop I used to work at that a wore out Ford 302 tq plate will work). Lastly, if they are quoting you $2500.00 extra for a new larger bore block, go somewhere else. Afterall a brand new 4.00 bore LS2 block is $1000.00 and a brand new 4.060 bore L92 block is $1400.00. If I were going to build a motor today, I would go with the 4.060 L92 block. You could also look at our supporting vendors for their options. For less than their quoted rebuild you could get a complete 416 L92 short block from Scoggen Dickeys.

 

Thats going to limit you to a few things. Clutch is gonna be 1100, rear around 2100-2400 depending on what you get.

Your not doing all of that for 8k I'll tell you that right now.

The TFS package is 3k for the heads alone. Add a short block to handle it and thats another 3500. And it isnt going to real street friendly. Its a max effort hi rpm setup. You'll need a clutch as well. Plus you'll need all the stuff the SB doesnt come with so the real cost of the SB is $4500 for a 347 that just needs heads. Maybe subtract 400 for the cam you already have, but a custom cam is whats called for here.

SO you can try the 402/408 route, wich is where I'd go for 500 rwhp reliably in a DD.
You can do it all for about 7-8k but you wont have a clutch or rear.

500 rwhp in a reliable DD is not cheap. The tfs package is peak HP and I dont see it being a great DD. The power band itsnt even started until 3500 on the dyno and its not kicking that good at 3500 which means at 1800 its got to be flat. Maybe I'm wrong. Its a great track combo maybe, and from someof the numbers I've seen it seems to be but drag queens and street cars dont mix.... UNLESS your using n2o

SO Your best option here is a 347 setup for n2o to hit your 5-600 rwhp. You'll get a clutch in there for that price as well but not a rear.

Long winded but I've been there and done that.

 

yeah jus build your block and go with nitrous... the power will only be there when you want it to be and you wont have to worry about reliability...

 

So basically fix my rods, valves, upgrade clutch, rear, get a bottle and call it good?

 

Your not listening. I'm out of this thread.
Just get a bottle and call it good. Your short block will take care of the rest and I wont have to waste my time.

 

yeah i would just build your block, new clutch, new rear, and i would go with a nice shot of n2o

 

Forced induction always ends up costing more than you expect. So many guys in the FI section talk about how they expected to spend 7-10k and ended up spending 20k+. It seems like spray is extremely reliable so long as you have a good tune, and it its not constantly abusing the motor because you're not always using it.

 

with the mods in my sig i hope to be at mid 500rwhp

 

That's a big camshaft!