Getting ready to attempt my first cam swap, and in doing so, have been reading up on the process out on LS1Info.Com http://www.ls1info.com/article.php?s...rder=0&thold=0

I've been able to locate all of the tools listed with the exception of one; the hose from the leakdown test kit. Any ideas on what the best place would be to find one??

Also, I know this is probably a stupid question, but what does the hose do? I'm assuming it ensures that the valves remain seated while swapping the springs?

Again, sorry for the stupid questions, but any help you could provide would be greatly appreciated.

 

Just picked one up from Sears on the way home from work!!

Thanks for the info!!

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Samba242:
<strong>I did my first cam install a month ago and I searched and searched for just the hose from the leak-down kit........ no luck. I ended up buying the whole kit. It came from AutoZone for like $23. (they sell them at Sears too) Just take off the gauge part and remove the valve stem from the hose. Mine came with an extension for hard to reach spark plug holes and was a real godsend for the #8 cylinder. I think the brand name was Actron or Dactron or something like that. (came in an orange package)

This hose connects to the hose from your air compressor and supplies air pressure to the cylinder you are working on through the spark plug hole. This keeps the valves from falling into the cylinders while you have the valve springs removed. I think 60 psi was the minimum recommended pressure to have running in there.

The only stupid question is the one you don't ask............. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" /> </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">

 

I did my first cam install a month ago and I searched and searched for just the hose from the leak-down kit........ no luck. I ended up buying the whole kit. It came from AutoZone for like $23. (they sell them at Sears too) Just take off the gauge part and remove the valve stem from the hose. Mine came with an extension for hard to reach spark plug holes and was a real godsend for the #8 cylinder. I think the brand name was Actron or Dactron or something like that. (came in an orange package)

This hose connects to the hose from your air compressor and supplies air pressure to the cylinder you are working on through the spark plug hole. This keeps the valves from falling into the cylinders while you have the valve springs removed. I think 60 psi was the minimum recommended pressure to have running in there.

The only stupid question is the one you don't ask............. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

 

If you don't have an air compressor (or are just lazy) do this instead:

Tap the top of the retainers BEFORE you start on the spring swap. You're trying to knock the keepers free and make your life much easier once the spring is compressed. This helps avoid the "flying keeper" syndrome as well. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" /> Anyway, do that and then use your spring compressor like normal. Stick a ratchet on the crank (put the bolt back in if you're already pulled the pulley) and rotate it around so the piston holds the valve up. Makes things nice and easy, especially if you can talk someone else into turning the motor while you "feel" for the piston to come up. If you drop a valve, don't worry - they generally stop at the valve seal, and if not they hit the cylinder wall -- just rotate the motor around and it'll poke its head back up.