Weird Problem with ARP studs
-Dave
<strong>When you torque'd them did you go over them again?I ussually torque them once.Wait about 5 minutes and go over them again and again to make sure <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" /> </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I torqued each 3 times, torque, loosen, torque, loosen, torque. The only thing I didn't do was hit them that one last time. I should have, and I would know for sure that way that I didn't miss it, but still hard for me to believe that I did. At first I thought it was a bad Cometic gasket, so thank god it was just one bolt.... sure hope I didn't hurt the engine, but hopefully if any got in there it would just vaporize.
-Dave
We are doing a Head/Cam install tomorrow ussing ARP/Cometic so I'll test it again and see if there is the same problem and let you know.
You could also pull the valve covers and check the ones you can reach in there.
Believe me, once they are tight you will be fine. Always remember to retorque them after you do the first run on the engine just to make sure they seated properly.
I use a very accurate Snap On torque wrench, good parts are always helpfull.
Bret
Oh well...
-Dave
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<strong>Keep in mind when you loosen nuts to retorque, the studs can turn out when loosening, meaning they are not at 5 ft. lbs anymore. I think this is what you mean because if you did torque studs in stages like at least 3, than it should not have been loose when checxking it. If you dont go up incrementally when torquing you could warp head!</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I went in order, but this one will now be out of sequence. Not much I can do about it. I checked the stud before tightening this time, and it was still in there good. It will have to wait until spring to be re-torqued.
-Dave
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<strong>Most gaskets once they leak, will not seal up even after torquing all fasteners. If you drove with one corner loose than you better have heads planed to flatten them. Most gaskets require retorquing after several heat cycles, but this should not have left nuts hand loose, like you described. I would plan on at least pressure testing cooling system for leaks after full retorque of studs.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">They seem fine. Like I said, we'll see in the spring. It wasn't leaking between the head and block, it was coming up the bolt hole. It is not leaking at all now that I can tell.
-Dave

