2001 LS1 SS

OK, so I noticed I was leaking coolant, let it run and found out it was from the front bottom stud on the drivers side. I went to re-torque it and it wasn't even finger tight. I mean VERY loose. Now I have a hard time believing I forgot to tighten that one, but I won't rule it out. Just wondering if anyone else ever had a head stud loosen on them? I can't check the rest without pulling off the headers, but they have about the same thread above the nut as the one I just tightened, and are not leaking. Very weird, I just hope nothing was harmed, it is running fine. Scary thing is, if I did indeed forget to tighten it, its been about 1000 miles since then....

-Dave

Slowhawk

iTrader: (12)

When you torque'd them did you go over them again?I ussually torque them once.Wait about 5 minutes and go over them again and again to make sure <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

2001 LS1 SS

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Slowhawk:
<strong>When you torque'd them did you go over them again?I ussually torque them once.Wait about 5 minutes and go over them again and again to make sure <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" /> </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I torqued each 3 times, torque, loosen, torque, loosen, torque. The only thing I didn't do was hit them that one last time. I should have, and I would know for sure that way that I didn't miss it, but still hard for me to believe that I did. At first I thought it was a bad Cometic gasket, so thank god it was just one bolt.... sure hope I didn't hurt the engine, but hopefully if any got in there it would just vaporize.

-Dave

Slowhawk

iTrader: (12)

I'm running the same setup ARP/Cometics..I did notice after first round tightening to 70 ft/lbs,that after I went over them again at 70 ft/lbs,that I got another 1/2 turn out of each one <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" /> So I went over them again and again to make sure.
We are doing a Head/Cam install tomorrow ussing ARP/Cometic so I'll test it again and see if there is the same problem and let you know.

You could also pull the valve covers and check the ones you can reach in there.

SStrokerAce

iTrader: (2)

You missed it, that happens!

Believe me, once they are tight you will be fine. Always remember to retorque them after you do the first run on the engine just to make sure they seated properly.

I use a very accurate Snap On torque wrench, good parts are always helpfull.

Bret

2001 LS1 SS

I followed ARP's "triple torque" recommendation, and did 65lbs (they said deduct 5 for aluminum block). Just can't believe I missed it. Only thing I can think is I missed the last tightening of the triple torque process, got distracted or something. Glad it was a bottom bolt so the coolant didn't have anywhere bad to go. I'm planning to pull the covers in the spring when it warms up and double check all my rockers, and I'll do all the bolts again.

Oh well...

-Dave

LS1derfull

Keep in mind when you loosen nuts to retorque, the studs can turn out when loosening, meaning they are not at 5 ft. lbs anymore. I think this is what you mean because if you did torque studs in stages like at least 3, than it should not have been loose when checxking it. If you dont go up incrementally when torquing you could warp head!

2001 LS1 SS

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by LS1derfull:
<strong>Keep in mind when you loosen nuts to retorque, the studs can turn out when loosening, meaning they are not at 5 ft. lbs anymore. I think this is what you mean because if you did torque studs in stages like at least 3, than it should not have been loose when checxking it. If you dont go up incrementally when torquing you could warp head!</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I went in order, but this one will now be out of sequence. Not much I can do about it. I checked the stud before tightening this time, and it was still in there good. It will have to wait until spring to be re-torqued.

-Dave

LS1derfull

Most gaskets once they leak, will not seal up even after torquing all fasteners. If you drove with one corner loose than you better have heads planed to flatten them. Most gaskets require retorquing after several heat cycles, but this should not have left nuts hand loose, like you described. I would plan on at least pressure testing cooling system for leaks after full retorque of studs.

2001 LS1 SS

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by LS1derfull:
<strong>Most gaskets once they leak, will not seal up even after torquing all fasteners. If you drove with one corner loose than you better have heads planed to flatten them. Most gaskets require retorquing after several heat cycles, but this should not have left nuts hand loose, like you described. I would plan on at least pressure testing cooling system for leaks after full retorque of studs.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">They seem fine. Like I said, we'll see in the spring. It wasn't leaking between the head and block, it was coming up the bolt hole. It is not leaking at all now that I can tell.

-Dave