surging and bucking with my MS3 is TERRIBLE!
FWIW I run a 232/236 and made the numbers in my sig, and my setup is extremely streetable and it doesnt even have a good tune. For me personally anything as large as a Magic Stick is just to big on the street for my taste.
There are plenty of guys making huge power with small cams.
Hey Brad,
I care to completely disagree with what you said about Magic Stick cams.
If you would have said that a month ago, I would have agreed with you.
The slightest change in your VE tables of 5 to 10% makes a HUGE difference in how the car drives, not to mention changing the Throttle Cracker settings and Desired Airflow tables (Thanks EFI Live!)
I tuned my MS4 the first time using AutoVE tuning but did not realize the AFR reading in my EFI live was not accurately displayed on my EFI Live causing my tuning software to read 1 point leaner.
After that tune, it drove richer, bucked, surged and very harsh to drive in traffic and cold starts.
After correcting the AFR value in EFI Live, MAN, what a HUGE Difference!
I am an not kidding when I say my car drives like stock! Just like a stock car from a cold 60 deg start, I can drive off immediately (PLEASE DO NOT flame me for driving a large cammed engine cold).
No stalling, no bucking, no high idle speeds after coming to a stop.
All I have left to finish is my WOT tuning which should be soon on a dyno.
So to sum this up. TSP did an awesome job with the specs on the MS4 cam.
Way streetable and pulls like a **** with no end in sight.
I care to completely disagree with what you said about Magic Stick cams.
If you would have said that a month ago, I would have agreed with you.
The slightest change in your VE tables of 5 to 10% makes a HUGE difference in how the car drives, not to mention changing the Throttle Cracker settings and Desired Airflow tables (Thanks EFI Live!)
I tuned my MS4 the first time using AutoVE tuning but did not realize the AFR reading in my EFI live was not accurately displayed on my EFI Live causing my tuning software to read 1 point leaner.
After that tune, it drove richer, bucked, surged and very harsh to drive in traffic and cold starts.
After correcting the AFR value in EFI Live, MAN, what a HUGE Difference!
I am an not kidding when I say my car drives like stock! Just like a stock car from a cold 60 deg start, I can drive off immediately (PLEASE DO NOT flame me for driving a large cammed engine cold).
No stalling, no bucking, no high idle speeds after coming to a stop.
All I have left to finish is my WOT tuning which should be soon on a dyno.
So to sum this up. TSP did an awesome job with the specs on the MS4 cam.
Way streetable and pulls like a **** with no end in sight.
i would agree, i drive mine to and from work every day (mine is a 408 though) and its completely streetable..
btw i have ALOT of tuning time into my car though....
helps to have a buddy with an older HP tuners on his spare laptop
Anyway, I will meet with him next week and we will work it out, then i will repost!
Erik
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
It bucked like crazy anywhere under 2k rpm. I have been told that agressive cams need some real TLC in a tune.
I have just seen so many people here after they install them say its streetable 100% but a month or 2 later after they have actually driven it a lot they will come back and say how unstreetable it is. Its like you want it to be considered streetable so bad that your mind plays tricks on you then eventually you realize that it just isnt. I could be wrong though.
John
I have just seen so many people here after they install them say its streetable 100% but a month or 2 later after they have actually driven it a lot they will come back and say how unstreetable it is. Its like you want it to be considered streetable so bad that your mind plays tricks on you then eventually you realize that it just isnt. I could be wrong though.
I daily drive mine. MS3 with 4,000 stall speed converter and tune by LS1 Speed. It has died on me twice in over two years.
The only time it truly is not happy is a cold start when the temps are below 10*F if I don't let it idle for a couple minutes first. I might not have to worry about that from now on.
I am still happy with my camshaft choice. I will be living in GA starting next month, but nearly 300 miles away from Savanah.
Mine is a 228R. Im trying to figure it out, but tuning is a seperate talent than building a motor. it takes time and experience.
i just posted this in order to see if i could do something in the meantime...the 02 sensors is something i never thought about...how much are the replacements? like $200 for the pair right?
I will ask Jeremy...
Erik
John
i jsut recently had my 228/232 on a 110+4 installed. keep in mind i am on the stock 3.42. Car had bad bucking, idle dip, no warm start and hesitation. My car was on the dyno for 7+ hours. I took the car back to my tuner 5 times. The tune makes all the difference in the world. Get you throttle cracker table in tact. Also get the g/cyl down then that way you can get the right VE!
But my car now, it only bucks between 1600-1800 RPMs. I have no idle dip or idle hang. The hesitation is a lot better. You will get hesitation under 2K RPMs with a big cam, you are not making, not until 3K+ RPMs. And the only thing that is wrong with my car is the warm start. My IAC will not reset at all.
So take the car back have them tune it for street manners.
Nice numbers, what is all done to your car?
also if u have a scan tool monitor ur iac counts and try and get them as close to 0 as possible when the car has reached temp. trust me u will thank urself when u r done.tommy
p.s.-jeremy is the man so lets keep this civil gentleman


