JF-WS6

iTrader: (1)

112LSA, you won't be sorry.

JudgeGuns

iTrader: (1)

i would swap out new springs every 20,000 miles. cheap insurance vs sucking a valve!

JMHO

Wezie F Baby

iTrader: (4)

I got cha, I was hoping a little longer than that but it sounds good to me. I'll be changing them every year if it's 20K miles.

Thanks for all the votes guys, I guess I'll stick to the 112lsa. Waitng for my rear end to make it hear first, then I'll be making a happy trip to Thunder

PREDATOR-Z

Yes opn the trq bit but no on to power.
On a 112 it will bring on the power sooner in the band. It will have more overlap, 0* Vs -4*, therfore it will make more power. The 114 will shift power about 200rpm later and rev a bit higher, it will also pass emmisions in Cali.
In a M6, unless necessary, the 112 is the way to go.

JBsZ06

If the gentlemen went with comp 921 dual springs would he still be changing the valve springs every 20k Miles ..(iwith either 224/224 .563 lift 114 or 112lsa) ?

Does the comp 921 dual last longer between service intervals?

Just curious as some people are saying it might cost more initially but the replacement intervals are longer...

true or false? I don't know..

What do U think?

(I broke the crane duals at 23K miles so I'm leary but you never know)

PREDATOR-Z

(I broke the crane duals at 23K miles so I'm leary but you never know)

That is over what length period?
And did you do any pressure measuring in that interval?

JBsZ06

The time period was probably little over 2 years possibly 3? and I did no pressure measuring in that interval...

The tuner I had used at the time were great guys and it was two partners in a bit of a disagreement and I didn't feel comfortable going back to them until they settled their thing...between each other...(if that makes any sense) ....I don't do this kind of work myself so I couldn't check or replace the parts...

This was a mild 224/224/ .563 114lsa cam driven solely on the street so I thought I had more time...

I'm just giving an account for those to benefit from my experience.

MountainMotor

iTrader: (2)

I have the TR224 on a 114 but I would get it on the 112!

2000Z28AUG

which is better for an A4 car though?

PREDATOR-Z

Then you were careless in your upkeep of the motor. Spring pressures on aftermarket swaps should be done every 15K or every year. That is normal asa changing oil.

JBsZ06

Its not careless. Thats the recommendation of the tuners/distributor.

Was there a problem as an owner of a modded c5 Z06 following the advice of the tuner who installed it or the distributor who sold the parts to the tuner?

Well obviously since the valve spring broke on the car...but remember I'm not pissed. I'm not suffering..Why?

Because the dual valve spring saved my @ss...and thats the point of my posting here for the gentleman asking the questions....

checking valve spring pressures doesn't really make sense since the labor to check them is about the same as replacing them with new parts...the parts are cheap....

Like I said if your most important thing in your life is your valve springs and its a top priority for your life...I would imagine you wont' have happen to you what happened to me...My point is that 2 years down the road..you don't know what will be a top priority.

Like I said...I called the tuner..they were moving...blah..blah...blah...I then called the distributor who said I had 25 to 30K miles...so I started to look for someone else..well

I was at 23k and one broke...I don't blame anyone and all I'm trying to convey is that with dual vavle springs it was a relatively non event...

With singles I would have been in possibly more trouble and grenaded the engine..Thats not what the average enthusiast wants to deal with. IMO

For the most part people today chosing the 224/224 cam want some degree of everyday reliability. So in my opinion I recommend a dual valve spring like the patriot gold..

priced well and a dual spring..(is it a guarantee that nothing bad can ever happen? No..but it does greatly reduce the risk)

I hope this helps and with an automatic I would definitely go with the 114 lsa (yes some probably have gone with 112 in an a4 but for the most part the 114 is a better way to go.

PREDATOR-Z

Duals like PP golds are overkill on this cam. Too stiff a spring does have adverse effect on cams and lifters that are not made to handle those pressures.

Why don't you spend some time at someones place while they are changing springs and learn to do it yourself, instead of writing 1/4 mile threads.

This phobia (918's will grenade, balhblah and duals will save blahblah, is pure internet donkey dong). Get the right spring for the right cam, period. Do the right maintenance, period. All else is shortcut and we all know where that leads (inneficiency and trouble)

JBsZ06

You sure seem to push the 918's as if its the only spring in existance...?

I think you're the one with a phobia..

Fwiw I never said the 918's will destroy an engine...but unless your the type to take them out and inspect them every year...the dual spring might be a better way to go...

Is your choice of going with the 918's the only way to go...? All other choices by other people is a mistake? I think for you as a person whose willing to inspect his valve springs with your yearly oil change or whatever you said earlier ..the 918's are a great choice.

For the rest of the world? Who have from time to time more pressing issues? More important things to do? Dual springs might be a better way to go... The patriot duals I believe are priced extemely competitive..

Accept my apology if my opinion offends you..

I'm not knocking what you chose for yourself. A person who admits to wanting to check the valve spring pressures with joy.

Not every enthusiast whose throwing in a cam wants to do that.

Thats where a dual valve spring comes into play...

PREDATOR-Z

So tell me if your "Theory" is correct, why did the new LS7 motor with .591 lift cam come with single beehive springs? Don't you think GM would want to protect a 16000+$$ motor?
Because the Beehive tech has tremendeous benefits and control valvetrain harmonics and valvefloat better.

man, you are not going to convince me on this one.

JBsZ06

I apologize if you think I am trying to convince you. I'm just offering up my personal experience when a valve spring broke. I was glad I had spent the few extra dollars for a dual spring.

I am sure your 918 is a great spring especially when checked yearly.

None of us have the engineering backround in designing products like GM has at their disposal when they create a product and neither do most of the aftemarket companies...so there fore I suggest a dual spring ...

Like I said..if your willing to check your valve springs on a periodic basis..I am sure the 918's are great..

if your like the average enthusiast...whose not going to be that dilegent with a cars valve springs...Dual valve springs are a good way to go...

Good luck in whatever the original thread starter does..

Just giving my personal experience and opinion.

2002 SS #476

iTrader: (2)

Having a spring that is closes to the lift of the cam is the best way to go. Just like if you swap to 1.8 rocker arms, they recommend swapping springs because the factory ones are not made for the added lift. Using a spring that is good for lift up to .650 when the cam lift is .563, is just adding more friction for the motor to over come. The 918’s are good to .600(as they advertise, can handle something slightly over .600) which is much closer to .563. Modifying cost money, and modifying the motor just adds more things that need to be regularly checked and maintained.

98 Z-28

Nice vid im gonna go with the TR224 for sure

staringback05

iTrader: (8)

112 for the win....

Wezie F Baby

iTrader: (4)

Oh yes!!!!!

98camaroLS1M6

iTrader: (35)

112 but for what you seem to want, I would say 114. 114-more emission friendly and less lope(stock-like) but this is all relative. If you really want lope you could lower the idle