View Poll Results: which cam
Vengeance, Vindicator
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72
44.72%
TSP, MS4
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67
41.61%
Other..explain
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22
13.66%
Voters: 161. You may not vote on this poll
MS4, Vindicator, other..which cam????
#21
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I have an MS3 and my car is awesome. I drive it every day with no problems at all. The car doesnt buck or bog. It does lope quite a bit but hey thats part of the fun of a big cam. Ive done a little more then look a few graphs on the web, so im not just some internet warrior. I know some people prefer smaller cams but obviously by looking at this guys choice of cam he was looking for a big cam.
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I like the way a big cam sounds on the streets,but thats about it. I would not trade my TR224/112 for a huge cam in a street car.If i did go to a bigger cam it would not be much bigger,maybe a 224/228 on a 346CI.Now if i go up in cubes thats a diff. story
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I picked MS4 of course. but the vindicator as been making some awesome numbers. my numbers are with stock ls6 intake, tb (unported), pulley and waterpump. I like the cam, I need gears without a doubt. Also it need some more tunning. I'm hoping for power between 430 to 450 when I get the rest of the bolt ons. a lot of people are dead againts big cams and want nothing to do with them. I say its all in the abilities of the tuner to decide if it has good street manners.
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some people have said the vindicator is tighter P/V then they're comfortable with. with that aside, it kills the ms4 for torque. you guys can battle for power under the curve all you want. i've had a little bitty MTI t1 cam(221 221. .558 .558), and i've had big cams. t1 made great power, but was done too early for me. i have a 4000 stall that flashes to 5200, so power under the curve is kinda a mute point... for an m6 car, you'll want a bigger gear in the back to keep the rpms up. big cams can be made driveable, you just need to have the right setup.
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When we designed the MS4 camshaft we work with many different camshaft lobes in an effort to make both great power & keep acceptable piston to valve clearance.
The magic stick 4 is a result of extensive engine dyno testing.
The magic stick 4 is a result of extensive engine dyno testing.
__________________
Jason
Co-Owner, Texas Speed & Performance, Ltd.
2005 Twin Turbo C6
404cid Stroker, 67mm Twins
994rwhp/902lb ft @ 22 psi (mustang dyno) www.Texas-Speed.com
Jason
Co-Owner, Texas Speed & Performance, Ltd.
2005 Twin Turbo C6
404cid Stroker, 67mm Twins
994rwhp/902lb ft @ 22 psi (mustang dyno) www.Texas-Speed.com
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I've had the MS4 in my M6 car with stock gears and a mail tune from TSP for about 5000 miles now. And every time I take somebody for a ride they or let them drive my car. They can't beleive how big the cam is since it drives so good. now yes it will buck from time to time in 1st or 2nd gear at a low rpm and lite throttle. I can still put it in 6th at about 1100 rpm and it can still pull it just fine, not quiet as good as stock. buck hey it a trade off for the way the car now pulls in the mid-top rpm range. I am 100% happy this cam. oh and I'm cam only with out flycutting.
I'm not saying to not look at the vindicator. I voted for the MS4 because I have it and have had no bad experiences with it. My car is also one of the best driving "big" cam cars I've rode in.
I'm not saying to not look at the vindicator. I voted for the MS4 because I have it and have had no bad experiences with it. My car is also one of the best driving "big" cam cars I've rode in.
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Originally Posted by kickassT/A
some people have said the vindicator is tighter P/V then they're comfortable with. with that aside, it kills the ms4 for torque.
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IMO i don't like cams that big with stock heads but everybody seems to love to over cam.
I guess if those were the only 2 cams i had to choose from and it is not a dd car i'd go MS4.
I guess if those were the only 2 cams i had to choose from and it is not a dd car i'd go MS4.
#34
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Well I am definetly an advocate of smaller cams in stock weight, M6, cam only setups. I have the MS3 in my car. It was tuned by Jason at MTI and made 395 rwhp with stock pulley/TB, MAF and through 4.10s with Nitto 315 DRs. My car runs fine in town, a little bucking here and there but its definetly manageable.....what I hate is the TOTAL LACK of part throttle torque/hp and WOT power below 4k. I had gotten so used to driving it that when I recently drove my buddy's stock TA, I was SHOCKED at how much stronger the stocker was then mine under 4k rpms..That was at WOT and more importantly part throttle acceleration. YES, mine is stronger up top but.... ON the street, you need that bottom end and mid range power, especially in a heavy M6.
Yes I have ran my car at the track and honestly, its a freakin turd, I don't have a 12bolt or 9" so I can't 5k clutch dump it....driving it out from 3500-4000 rpms gets me 2.0 60's and horrible 5.50 330's and the car runs 12.70s@113. Thats power shifting all gears and a 3720lb raceweight. The 330' sucks so bad because the car has no torque. Maybe if I had a rear end and a better setup chasis for drag racing, I could banzai the biatch from 6k and get it to leave but....that is just stupid for a street cruiser. I have been very disappointed with this cam considering the car ran 12.90s with a borla/lid before I started the serious mods..
That being said, I will be going back to a MTI stealth or TR 224 soon so my valve springs will last more then 15k miles which is a whole other issue.
Yes I have ran my car at the track and honestly, its a freakin turd, I don't have a 12bolt or 9" so I can't 5k clutch dump it....driving it out from 3500-4000 rpms gets me 2.0 60's and horrible 5.50 330's and the car runs 12.70s@113. Thats power shifting all gears and a 3720lb raceweight. The 330' sucks so bad because the car has no torque. Maybe if I had a rear end and a better setup chasis for drag racing, I could banzai the biatch from 6k and get it to leave but....that is just stupid for a street cruiser. I have been very disappointed with this cam considering the car ran 12.90s with a borla/lid before I started the serious mods..
That being said, I will be going back to a MTI stealth or TR 224 soon so my valve springs will last more then 15k miles which is a whole other issue.
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I just swapped from the tsp 231/237 cam to the ms4 on a 110+4 ground in for some more low-end midrange and i havent had it tuned yet(getting it done on friday), but i can definately tell it has sooooo much more on the low end. Before it felt like i always had to downshift to get into the powerband but now it is a completely different story and there isnt even running that great. I say go MS4. Ill have some numbers on friday and will post them up.
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thanks
Right now I am looking at the f14 w/ higher lift, TV3, G5X3, and ms4+4
I would prefer a off the shelf cam for now. I'll have my 12 bolt next summer and then save up for a turbo. But I do want a nice cam only..maybe throw on 5.3 heads in a few..but cam only car for a year or so
Right now I am looking at the f14 w/ higher lift, TV3, G5X3, and ms4+4
I would prefer a off the shelf cam for now. I'll have my 12 bolt next summer and then save up for a turbo. But I do want a nice cam only..maybe throw on 5.3 heads in a few..but cam only car for a year or so
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yeah but how does it pull down low, Im not going to be driving the car that much starting back in the fall and when i come home from school I'm going to want to get on it, but not stay at 3-4k al the time just to stray in the powerband, o turn the engine to 6800 just to get the nice numbers that the dyno puts out
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Originally Posted by blacksskid07
yeah but how does it pull down low, Im not going to be driving the car that much starting back in the fall and when i come home from school I'm going to want to get on it, but not stay at 3-4k al the time just to stray in the powerband, o turn the engine to 6800 just to get the nice numbers that the dyno puts out