YellaTerra install
#21
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Originally Posted by YellowToy/A
Hey SLT so do dont know if u need a washer for a stock engine, and you dont know if if the washer sets the preload or the valve wipe. What do u know? Can you read? You also dont know when people make fun of you. I think you are the retarded and a slow learner. Do you know anything?
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#22
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Originally Posted by YellowToy/A
Hey SLT so do dont know if u need a washer for a stock engine, and you dont know if if the washer sets the preload or the valve wipe. What do u know? Can you read? You also dont know when people make fun of you. I think you are the retarded and a slow learner. Do you know anything?
Hay short bus rider..you can say what you want but my yella terra rockers took me about 45 minutes to install and you are still trying to figure out he instructions..looks like you are the phuchin retard..go to the back of the bus dumbass... what you think means nothing you have already proven to be a short bus riding retard...
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#23
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Originally Posted by slt200mph
Ok dude here is how you do it..if you can't figure it out after reading this you need to sell your car and ride the phuchin bus because your to dumb to own a LS1 powered car..
Now, grab a yella terra rocker pair, 2 yella terra pedestals, and 2 shims from the box. Push the stock bolts through the top of the rockers down through the bottom, place the rocker pedestal over the threaded part of the bolt and butt it up to the bottom of the rocker. The skinny part of the pedestal goes towards the rocker arms. For now, leave the shims off
Now, remember that one cylinder you made sure had both valves shut? Well, install this rocker pair onto that cylinder. To keep the pedestal from falling off, you'll need to hold it as shown in the image....thumbs against the rocker arm bolt heads, index fingers holding the pedestals up, and then manually line up the 2 bolts with the 2 bolt holes.
Note: If you have ported heads, you may want to place some locktite on the bolt threads before install to help the intake ports seal. For stock heads, locktite is less needed.
Once the rockers are sitting in the right place, use a 10mm socket and extension but NO SOCKET WRENCH, and finger tighten the rocker arm bolts until both of the bolts get too tough to spin with 2 fingers. You can take your index finger and try to spin the pushrod under the rocker arms as well, and it should have some friction on it and just barely spin, if spin at all. This is called "Zero Lash" and it is where there is no preload on the lifters....the lifter is touching the pushrod, the pushrod is touching the rocker, and the rocker is touching the valve, all without putting any pressure on the lifter.
NOW, get your socket wrench out and attach it to the 10mm socket+extension you were using. Without turning the bolt AT ALL, place the wrench in the 12 o'clock position. What we have to do is count the bolt turns until the instant the bolt gets hand tight. Turn each of the two bolts 90 degrees clockwise, then set the wrench at 12 o'clock and repeat (do each bolt one 1/4 turn, and keep alternating).....each 1/4 turn per bolt seems to equate about 10-12 thousandths preload (this is a very rough guess!).
If you get MORE than 1 full 360 degree turn on each bolt, remove the rockers and install the shims on the bottom of the pedestals and repeat this process to check the new preload. The shims seem to reduce the turns by approximately 270 degrees. You must install a shim on BOTH bolts, not just one or the other. If you got LESS than 1 full 360 degree turn then you are ok to leave the shims out!
Every car will be different so make sure you check this! You want the smallest number of turns you can get, as long as you have at least 1/4 or 1/2 full turn of preload in there once you are all setup. If you get to the point where the bolt is tight yet you can still spin the pushrod (without using shims), then your pushrods are either too short, your valves are too short, or you have some strange valvetrain geometry. You MUST have some preload or it will be OBSCENELY loud and run very poorly. Longer pushrods may fix your issue in this case.
Now that we know if you need the shims or not, we don't need to do ANY of that legwork above on the other 7 cylinders...we can just throw the rockers on and go (either using the shim or not, depending on what you found out above). So, do just that....bolt up all the other 7 pairs of rockers (if you have ported heads, you may want to use a little locktite on the bolt threads). Remember, since these other cylinders are in totally random positions, it is 100% normal for the rest of the rockers to compress some valve springs as you start to tighten the bolt down, since these valves aren't all shut. Using a small socket wrench, tighten all these bolts down. You should be able to feel when the rocker seats itself as the bolt will stop turning if you are using a small socket wrench.
Once the rocker arms are all seated, get your torque wrench out and set it to 22lb/ft and torque all 16 rocker arm bolts to 22lb/ft. Go over the bolts a couple times to make absolutely sure they are torqued to spec.
![Rolleyes](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/rolleyes.gif)
Now, grab a yella terra rocker pair, 2 yella terra pedestals, and 2 shims from the box. Push the stock bolts through the top of the rockers down through the bottom, place the rocker pedestal over the threaded part of the bolt and butt it up to the bottom of the rocker. The skinny part of the pedestal goes towards the rocker arms. For now, leave the shims off
Now, remember that one cylinder you made sure had both valves shut? Well, install this rocker pair onto that cylinder. To keep the pedestal from falling off, you'll need to hold it as shown in the image....thumbs against the rocker arm bolt heads, index fingers holding the pedestals up, and then manually line up the 2 bolts with the 2 bolt holes.
Note: If you have ported heads, you may want to place some locktite on the bolt threads before install to help the intake ports seal. For stock heads, locktite is less needed.
Once the rockers are sitting in the right place, use a 10mm socket and extension but NO SOCKET WRENCH, and finger tighten the rocker arm bolts until both of the bolts get too tough to spin with 2 fingers. You can take your index finger and try to spin the pushrod under the rocker arms as well, and it should have some friction on it and just barely spin, if spin at all. This is called "Zero Lash" and it is where there is no preload on the lifters....the lifter is touching the pushrod, the pushrod is touching the rocker, and the rocker is touching the valve, all without putting any pressure on the lifter.
NOW, get your socket wrench out and attach it to the 10mm socket+extension you were using. Without turning the bolt AT ALL, place the wrench in the 12 o'clock position. What we have to do is count the bolt turns until the instant the bolt gets hand tight. Turn each of the two bolts 90 degrees clockwise, then set the wrench at 12 o'clock and repeat (do each bolt one 1/4 turn, and keep alternating).....each 1/4 turn per bolt seems to equate about 10-12 thousandths preload (this is a very rough guess!).
If you get MORE than 1 full 360 degree turn on each bolt, remove the rockers and install the shims on the bottom of the pedestals and repeat this process to check the new preload. The shims seem to reduce the turns by approximately 270 degrees. You must install a shim on BOTH bolts, not just one or the other. If you got LESS than 1 full 360 degree turn then you are ok to leave the shims out!
Every car will be different so make sure you check this! You want the smallest number of turns you can get, as long as you have at least 1/4 or 1/2 full turn of preload in there once you are all setup. If you get to the point where the bolt is tight yet you can still spin the pushrod (without using shims), then your pushrods are either too short, your valves are too short, or you have some strange valvetrain geometry. You MUST have some preload or it will be OBSCENELY loud and run very poorly. Longer pushrods may fix your issue in this case.
Now that we know if you need the shims or not, we don't need to do ANY of that legwork above on the other 7 cylinders...we can just throw the rockers on and go (either using the shim or not, depending on what you found out above). So, do just that....bolt up all the other 7 pairs of rockers (if you have ported heads, you may want to use a little locktite on the bolt threads). Remember, since these other cylinders are in totally random positions, it is 100% normal for the rest of the rockers to compress some valve springs as you start to tighten the bolt down, since these valves aren't all shut. Using a small socket wrench, tighten all these bolts down. You should be able to feel when the rocker seats itself as the bolt will stop turning if you are using a small socket wrench.
Once the rocker arms are all seated, get your torque wrench out and set it to 22lb/ft and torque all 16 rocker arm bolts to 22lb/ft. Go over the bolts a couple times to make absolutely sure they are torqued to spec.
#25
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Originally Posted by TrekGTO
Dang did you type all of that? Good explanation!
That explanation is from LS1howto.com..the retard was directed there long before I posted it for him..this retard made a post in 2 different sections on this same question..the question has been answered for him numerous times..you can't cure stupid..
#28
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Originally Posted by slt200mph
Yes I know what it is...I just used the LS1howto.com quote becasue
you were so phuchin stupid..I was setting NHRA National Records before you were born..I am out ..![The Judge](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_judge.gif)
you were so phuchin stupid..I was setting NHRA National Records before you were born..I am out ..
![The Judge](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_judge.gif)
He may not be the best at typing, but it sounds like he's giving an honest effort to really understand what's going on rather than relying on the internetz to build his car. It'd be nice if you showed your age and tried to be respectful, regardless of the original poster's age.
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Boy i've just seen quite a few immature responses, this guy is just trying to do it right and not build his car from the internet. He's asking for help/advice and this is what this site is for not flaming.
#31
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Originally Posted by Jon5212
Boy i've just seen quite a few immature responses, this guy is just trying to do it right and not build his car from the internet. He's asking for help/advice and this is what this site is for not flaming.
#32
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Originally Posted by Amoretti
The problem is, his question has been answered quite a few times, he's just not reading the thread thoroughly enough. Rather than reading, he just keeps asking the same question over and over again looking for a YES or NO answer, and the fact of the matter is it isn't a YES or a NO question.
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Hey I gave up tring to get an anwer a few days ago. SLT started flaming me soon after I ask. What I was tring to find out is on a stock set if the washer was required to have stock geometry. This would give me a starting point. I still dont have an answer.
I am going to measure valve wipe and zero lash. Then determine push rod.
SLP never had any information. He did his intall in 45 mins. He is the install god just ask him.
I dont think he looked at valve wipe. But he knows it all.
Thanks to all but SLP.
Maybe I will be flying the space shuttle on their next mission
I am going to measure valve wipe and zero lash. Then determine push rod.
SLP never had any information. He did his intall in 45 mins. He is the install god just ask him.
I dont think he looked at valve wipe. But he knows it all.
Thanks to all but SLP.
Maybe I will be flying the space shuttle on their next mission
#38
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iTrader: (22)
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Originally Posted by YellowToy/A
Hey I gave up tring to get an anwer a few days ago. SLT started flaming me soon after I ask. What I was tring to find out is on a stock set if the washer was required to have stock geometry. This would give me a starting point. I still dont have an answer.
I am going to measure valve wipe and zero lash. Then determine push rod.
SLP never had any information. He did his intall in 45 mins. He is the install god just ask him.
I dont think he looked at valve wipe. But he knows it all.
Thanks to all but SLP.
Maybe I will be flying the space shuttle on their next mission
I am going to measure valve wipe and zero lash. Then determine push rod.
SLP never had any information. He did his intall in 45 mins. He is the install god just ask him.
I dont think he looked at valve wipe. But he knows it all.
Thanks to all but SLP.
Maybe I will be flying the space shuttle on their next mission
#40
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Originally Posted by slt200mph
This is planet earth calling!!!!...You have to put the rockers on and see if you need to use the spacer (washer) ... cars are different..it is not one phuchin size fits all..
.. read the phuchin directions dude...no never mind ... get on the short bus and forget about it... ![The Jester](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_jest.gif)
![Rolleyes](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/rolleyes.gif)
![The Jester](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_jest.gif)