Then you don't know what caused your increased pressure, so don't say:
And that's awfully high if you are saying it idles that high when fully warmed up. 35-40 is perfectly normal and acceptable from what I've seen.


And I'm not saying you're wrong. I'm wanting to discuss this. I'm always wanting to learn something. What reasoning do you have for thinking higher oil pressure is better than a lower, yet acceptable pressure?

 

Not meaning to start a war here. I definately see where you are coming from. It makes sense.

I said it like it was a good thing because with the old oil and old FRAM filter my oil pressure would dip to 30psi and i'd get scared i would spin a rod bearing in the future.

About the thin oil thing, have you ever turned one of those Lucas oil gear thing is autozone, the one set of gears has reguar oil and the other has the Lucas additive. That is a perfect example of what i was trying to get at. Thinner oil doesnt protect as much as the thicker oil that coats the gears more.

 

I should have mentioned that 55psi was not when warm. That is my fault.

At a warm idle my car is anywhere from 40psi to 45psi. Occasionally a tad lower if running for a while.

My buddy has a brand new iron 408 in his T/A and his warm idle is like 60psi. He has a mellings high volume pump though. I was also basing my reasoning off that brand new motors oil pressure.

I'm sorry for the misunderstanding.

 

I dont know where our pressure guauges get there reading from..but that is what the determining factor is. If the pressure reading is read before the oil goes into the filter, than that would mean with a restrictive filter you would have high oil pressure before the oil filter, and lower oil pressure after the filter. If the reading is read after it passes through the filter, than that would mean a restrictive filter would cause a low oil pressure reading, and a free flowing filter would cause a higher reading. Also, oil pressure to be honest is really not that important..oil flow is the key. Now i know pressure is a resistance to flow, but the more oil pressure you build, the more horsepower you lose. In my nascar enginesII class we would only be making about 30 psi at 8000 rpm..we had the pump geared for the minimum amount of oil pressure that we needed for the most power. This is one of the reasons why you hear nascars in the pit and they will rev it to like 4K rpm, if the revs drop below that they make 0 oil pressure because of how the pumps are geared. You hear so many people talking about how this oil makes more pressure, or that filter makes more pressure..or i need a high flow pump for more pressure..all that is gonna take horsepower away. Pumping losses play a pretty big roll in the efficiency of an engine. Like someone said previously all you need is adequate oil pressure..80 psi doesent mean your motor is getting any better protection than if you only had 40 psi..your still getting enough oil flow through the motor to protect vital components.

 

Now that makes sense^^^

Ive never thought about it that way.

 

what are they saying that classifies as "otherwise"? i said nothing technically incorrect.

 

So if anyone is still looking for GC it can be bought from WS6store.com - a site sponsor.

 

The autozone around here carries the stuff. I got 6 quarts of the GC before, but when I put it in there was an audible increase in the volume of piston slap. My engine slaps anyway, but I don't need it to be louder. Even if this stuff is protecting the engine better, it is a pain in the *** having to hear good old piston slap even louder now.

 

are you SURE the piston slap is louder? just remember that you're actually LISTENING for it now. a lot of people go about their daily lives not putting too much thought about these type of things, then they get a bunch of info about an oil, so they try it out and become obsessed with it. they add the oil, then notice a sound that's actually always been there, but you've never noticed it so much before since you were never previously listening for it specifically. now that you're actually noticing it, it SEEMS so much louder. i'd recommend you do a UOA (used oil analysis) to put your fears to rest.

wow, that was a grammatical nightmare. my bad, it's getting late and i can't think very clearly

 

Yeah, I am sure it was louder. It wasn't just "a little" louder. It was definetly louder.

Again, the oil could be doing a kick *** job in the engine, but now the damn engine is louder period. I really don't like having it in a garage for very long. Then it is stupidly noticeable.

 

Excellent post!

BTW, for those that would like to try it, I saw the M1 5w-40 Turbodiesel (formerly known as Truck & SUV) in 4 qt jugs at Wallyworld for $23.62.

 

I thought it was common sense, not excellent post. But I agree, excellent if there's guys who can't figure that much out.

I was also saying that about oil pressure under the assumption that it's reading pressure before the filter, since the sending unit is in the top of the engine.

 

I've been using GC for a while. I just pulled the valve covers today just for a peek and liked what I saw. Very clean.

 

It turned your springs blue, Holmes!

 

LOL. That must have been the green in the GC.

 

The fact that it was based on logic (and not assumptions) made it an excellent post. I haven't built an LSx (yet) but I've done plenty of SBCs, BBCs, BBOs, BBFs (Limas and FEs), SBFs, etc, and not one of them took pressure readings before the filter. I'd be surprised if LSx engines did, but I'm not going to assume they don't.

Logic and common sense can be in short supply on the boards. Like guys telling those of us in warm climates we don't need to be running 0w-30 GC. I might not need oil that flows well at 20 below, but since it's fact that a lot of engine wear occurs at startup, it makes sense to use an oil with good cold flow characteristics, even if my cold starts are at 50 degrees. The outstanding UOAs that have been posted on the internet by GC users from around the nation only reinforces the idea that GC is a very good choice no matter what the climate.

 

Okay, I read this whole thread, and a few others. Don't try and accuse me of not doing my research, or just plain call me an idiot (although others have tried that one). Went to the local AZ where I have been buying the GC and lo and behold, they have a new Syntec, for European vehicles, but it is now made in the good ol' USA. So, are some folks still able to find the GC? Any feedback on this new European formula?

 

According to all the facts, only the Castrol Syntec made in Germany is the stuff that makes it better than others. I run an AC Delco or Walmart Supertech oil filter every time. You know, I'm sure you can find "facts" that state any particular brand of synthetic oil is superior to others. Kind of like experts brought into courtrooms to validate each attorney's points. It's also proven that certain engines like or dislike certain brand/type oils. Mobil1 is fantastic oil period. 32V Cobra engines do not like it and leak by valve stem seals when you run it.

 

The facts you are looking for are stated in the oil analysis results. go compare the average M1 5w30 analysis with a GC analysis.

 

lol this LS1rulz guy is an idiot.. if an oil filter change caused higher oil pressure then the filter is NOT more obstructive.. its LESS obstructive. the pump is sucking in MORE oil and pumping MORE oil up into the top end. the oil pressure sending unit is located on the back of the block. therefore.. if it reads MORE pressure then OBVIOUSLY there is MORE oil (or thicker oil) getting up to the sensor and creating more pressure.


how exactly do you suppose the oil filter is hindering oil flow... no oil filter would equal through the roof oil pressure.