Crank Bolt - Back in
Crank Bolt - Back in Putting the engine back together for my H/C swap and installing a new March UD Pulley with New Stock Length Crank Bolt.
How do I get this POS back in? Tips, tricks?
or just place a thick piece of wood across the pulley and nail the crap out of it with a hammer until the threads on the bolt catch?
This is the hardest part of the entire swap.
How do I get this POS back in? Tips, tricks?
or just place a thick piece of wood across the pulley and nail the crap out of it with a hammer until the threads on the bolt catch?
This is the hardest part of the entire swap.
I went to a bolt supply store and picked up a threaded rod, used a nut and some thick *** washer and used that to pull the pulley on...or push if you will, worked like a dam charm....see the image above
Erik
Erik
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this is a cut and paste from www.ls1howto.com under "heads and cam swap"
Seat your pulley back onto the snout of the crankshaft as best you can by hand. If you purchased a longer crank bolt, start threading this in now and pull the pulley on about a 1/4 or 1/2 an inch and remove the longer bolt. Use your old stock crank pulley bolt to pull the pulley onto the crankshaft until the bolt seems to get impossible to turn. Grab your biggest torque wrench and attempt to torque that bolt down to 240lbft. I have always stopped at 200lbft on my installs and I've never had a problem, so if you can't hit 240 (which I never have), don't worry about it. Now, break the bolt free and remove it.
Take your NEW crank pulley bolt and thread it in all the way by hand. Torque this bolt to 37lbft. Now, we need to stretch the bolt into place. Get your breaker bar and pipe extension, and try to turn the bolt 140degrees past where it is at now, keeping in mind the engine will be trying to turn some and those are degrees you can't count. Again, I always seem to get about 90-100 degrees worth (estimating, knowing what 90 degrees looks like) and leave it as is so don't worry about going crazy here.
Once the pulley is installed, the timing cover should be nice and centered around it, so we can now tighten all 10 of those timing cover bolts. Torque them to 18lbft on the bolts you can get a torque wrench on, and just make the others you can't get the wrench on about as tight as those. Reinstall the A/C belt at this time.
Seat your pulley back onto the snout of the crankshaft as best you can by hand. If you purchased a longer crank bolt, start threading this in now and pull the pulley on about a 1/4 or 1/2 an inch and remove the longer bolt. Use your old stock crank pulley bolt to pull the pulley onto the crankshaft until the bolt seems to get impossible to turn. Grab your biggest torque wrench and attempt to torque that bolt down to 240lbft. I have always stopped at 200lbft on my installs and I've never had a problem, so if you can't hit 240 (which I never have), don't worry about it. Now, break the bolt free and remove it.
Take your NEW crank pulley bolt and thread it in all the way by hand. Torque this bolt to 37lbft. Now, we need to stretch the bolt into place. Get your breaker bar and pipe extension, and try to turn the bolt 140degrees past where it is at now, keeping in mind the engine will be trying to turn some and those are degrees you can't count. Again, I always seem to get about 90-100 degrees worth (estimating, knowing what 90 degrees looks like) and leave it as is so don't worry about going crazy here.
Once the pulley is installed, the timing cover should be nice and centered around it, so we can now tighten all 10 of those timing cover bolts. Torque them to 18lbft on the bolts you can get a torque wrench on, and just make the others you can't get the wrench on about as tight as those. Reinstall the A/C belt at this time.
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Originally Posted by jinxedz
Just as an Aside, the 'longer pulley bolt' listed on LS1Howto. com is the EXACT SAME Fu<king length as a stock crank bolt
M16 x 2.0 pitch x 120mm long my ***
M16 x 2.0 pitch x 120mm long my ***
http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j1...konia/bolt.jpg
Last edited by 98RedZone; Apr 25, 2007 at 06:15 PM.
Jesus Christ ...
We threw on a god damn 50 inch breaker bar on that son of a bitch and nothing ... so we took it out ... and taking it OUT was a pain in the ***
I think the pulley is good to go. That bolt aint moving any further
Im going to take pics
We threw on a god damn 50 inch breaker bar on that son of a bitch and nothing ... so we took it out ... and taking it OUT was a pain in the ***
I think the pulley is good to go. That bolt aint moving any further
Im going to take pics
Originally Posted by 98RedZone
Thanks
Those asshats at Brafasco clowned me
TECH Addict
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 2,907
Likes: 1
From: Bergen County, NJ
Originally Posted by vettenuts
Don't pull it on with the bolt, you are asking for big problems. You can make an installation tool for under $20.
Originally Posted by DaddySS
Another vote for threaded rod - Never pull it on with a bolt!!!!
I finally got the bolt out and the very first thread looks like it is starting to flatten
Tomorrow Im going back to Brafasco (because no one else seems to carry any M16 bolts) and going to make that tool
Launching!
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 281
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by vettenuts
Don't pull it on with the bolt, you are asking for big problems. You can make an installation tool for under $20.
I just tapped my March on a little bit with a hammer hitting it softly a bunch of times and then used the stock bolt and an impact wrench to push it on all the way. Then took the old bolt out and put the new one in. The pulley went on very easy, didnt resist much. Now if your pulley is very tight around the crank snout using the stock bolt to much may not be the best idea.
Originally Posted by d james
can you explain the double nut to keep shaft from moving idea? I don't see what your talking about and understand why it is needed?
UPDATE
I sourced out a M16 x 2 pitch rod out at Brafasco ... no other place had it (Home depot, Rona, Canadian Tire, Home hardware, No one)
The only length they had was 1 meter ... so I bought a 1 meter long Rod.
Set me back $40 with washers.
I would of never thought a POS pulley would be such a PITA, haha
I sourced out a M16 x 2 pitch rod out at Brafasco ... no other place had it (Home depot, Rona, Canadian Tire, Home hardware, No one)
The only length they had was 1 meter ... so I bought a 1 meter long Rod.
Set me back $40 with washers.
I would of never thought a POS pulley would be such a PITA, haha
Launching!
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 281
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by vettenuts
You put a wrench on the double nut (left end in photo) while turning the nut just to the left of the washer stack. This keeps the shaft from trying to turn into the crank and then turning the crank. I screwed the shaft in all the way by hand and then backed it out 1/2 turn so it wasn't bottom prior to pushing on the pulley. This tool works like a charm, won't damage the threads at all, and is cheap to make.