Need Help Understanding the Cam
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From: G-Vine, TX
Need Help Understanding the Cam Ok so im pretty new to the world of cams. I read that stickey in this section and didn't understand a single word it said. Can someone break down to Barney level for me the parts of a cam and how to understand what the numbers on it mean.
Im looking at a TA right now and the guy says it has a TR230/224 .575/.563 111 lsa cam, What does that mean to me? It also has
Crane dual valve springs
Crane hardened spring seats
Crane titanium retainers
Thunder Racing Chrome-Moly 7.400” pushrods (factory length)
Are these good components with the cam?
I just want to make sure I understand what im buying before I jump into it.
Thanks in Advance
Chris
Im looking at a TA right now and the guy says it has a TR230/224 .575/.563 111 lsa cam, What does that mean to me? It also has
Crane dual valve springs
Crane hardened spring seats
Crane titanium retainers
Thunder Racing Chrome-Moly 7.400” pushrods (factory length)
Are these good components with the cam?
I just want to make sure I understand what im buying before I jump into it.
Thanks in Advance
Chris
they mean its bigger, which means more HP, more TQ, and higher powerband, adn worse drivability, altohugh that cam shouldn't have any problems with driavabilty, looks good for a street car.
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From: G-Vine, TX
Originally Posted by LS1IMPULSE
they mean its bigger, which means more HP, more TQ, and higher powerband, adn worse drivability, altohugh that cam shouldn't have any problems with driavabilty, looks good for a street car.
if you are worried about driveability then test drive the car and see how you like it. Be sure and negotiate the price first cause you will probably love it and he will probably be able to tell that you love it.
AJ
AJ
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From: G-Vine, TX
ok so the concensis(sp) is the cam in the car is a good one..
I am stil looking for someone to explain to me what the numbers mean when you talk about a cam, its lope, and timing.
I am stil looking for someone to explain to me what the numbers mean when you talk about a cam, its lope, and timing.
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One side of the numbers is your intake side the other is your exhaust side. The lope is all in the LSA from what I have learned. Timing is sometimes already ground into the cam.
If you really take your time & study the sticky you'll get it figured out.
If you really take your time & study the sticky you'll get it figured out.
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Originally Posted by kyles2000z
jsut read the sticky again, its already broken down to "barney level" there.
230 - Intake Duration, or how long the intake valves stay open in degrees
224 - Exhaust Duration, or how longthe exhaust valves stay open in degrees
.575 - How much lift the intake valves have
.563 - How much lift the exhaust valves have
111 - The separation angle of the lobes
The rough idle comes from overlap, your cam is fine for the street as long as it is tuned correctly.
Last edited by LS1IMPULSE; Apr 23, 2007 at 05:27 PM.
Originally Posted by crsmetal
Ok so correct me if im wrong but LSA decides where your power band is right?
Now what is the Ramp? Is that how fast you get your power? And what decides the ramp?
Now what is the Ramp? Is that how fast you get your power? And what decides the ramp?
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From: G-Vine, TX
Originally Posted by LS1IMPULSE
yessir, TR230/224 .575/.563 111
230 - Intake Duration, or how long the intake valves stay open in degrees
224 - Exhaust Duration, or how longthe exhaust valves stay open in degrees
.575 - How much lift the intake valves have
.563 - How much lift the exhaust valves have
111 - The separation angle of the lobes
230 - Intake Duration, or how long the intake valves stay open in degrees
224 - Exhaust Duration, or how longthe exhaust valves stay open in degrees
.575 - How much lift the intake valves have
.563 - How much lift the exhaust valves have
111 - The separation angle of the lobes
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From: G-Vine, TX
Originally Posted by LS1IMPULSE
Link didn't work.
Originally Posted by crsmetal
Can anyone else answer my questions?
1) It's a reverse split design (usually designed to improve intake characteristics of combustion due to restrictive intake draw. IE: stock heads) This is why you see a larger duration on the front end (230/224)
2) It has relatively low valve lift (575/563) compared to many other cam choices out there, this usually helps with PTV clearance, and valvetrain durability
3) It has a tight LSA (111) in comparison to other cams, this means that the valve events happen closer together, which can sometimes hinder PTV clearance. This was incorporated intentionally though, as it allows for the intake charge phase to happen quickly after the exhaust event without too much overlap, so you take advantage of full cylinder draw.
4) Valvetrain components are selected to improve and sustain mechanical operation given the level of aggressiveness of cam design. The parts listed above are more than adequate for this cam choice.
Basically this cam has been a proven for years, it's a great street cam-only choice, has a unique choppy idle sound, great overall average power (especially low end tq), usually tops out around 400 rwhp with all the supporting mods. Relatively easy to tune, and don't let anyone tell you you need a 600 lift cam with 240-stupid duration to make some good useable power, this cam has plenty of kick it's considered to be probably right smack dab in the middle of the cam spectrum for effective 5.7L cam choices
Last edited by txhorns281; Apr 23, 2007 at 08:48 PM.