Installing ASA cam, what all do I need?
04-25-2007, 08:57 PM
#21
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[QUOTE=01Wickedwench] well you don't have to use an air compressor to hold up the valves but in my opinion its the best. Otherwise you will need to find top dead center, this way the piston is far up as possible in the cylinder. I never do it this way, but I think guys also stick rope inside the spark plug hole to take up even more space. IF the vavle falls at this point there should be just enough stem sticking out to grab ahold of the valve and pull it up. With the valves loose I imagine its harder to put the springs on since the valve has more up and down play. I always use the air to hold them up so I can't say how easy it is, but I do know if you don't have that piston up your in trouble, so the air method is more trouble free if your a worrier like me. Same thing with that pen magnet trick, you still have a chance that the lifters can fall down. You have to spin the original cam back and fourth to push the lifters up and they should hold up. i've heard of some people only relying on this-bad idea. Just go to the store and get some metal or wooden dowls-I don't remeber the size buit a quick search will bring it up.
Also i don't know if you've thought about the air conditioner, but you must either disconnect the radiator looking part of it, right next to radiator (called the condensor) or you can just bend the tube and hope it doesn't spring a leak. I think most people leave it connected and hope it doesn't break, but personally I unscrew it and just refill it with more R134a. THe pipe that must be bent costs more than the air conditioning refill kit-with cans and kit mine was less than 30 bucks, plus you'll have one in case you ever run out of propellant in the future.
Far as the bolt in the balancer goes you may not have a problem with the old one, on mine, my pulley ran out of threads, so i had to un thread the bolt looser to take up the space, the problem with that is if you unthread it to much, you will screw up the threads in the crank because the bolt is'nt grabing enough threads and thus distorts the crank threads, so you may or may not need a longer bolt, but you'll probably need a longer bolt to put the pulley back on. There is another thread dealing with that actually.
Originally Posted by d james
I thought the oil pump was supossed to be prett good on the 01 engines?
get some of those little spring lock retainer things, they are cheap enough and seem to just pop off and get lost.
How are you holding the valves up? If you've got an air compressor get the fitting so you can use it. THe fitting is the same on a compression tester if you have one. Or can be bought for 5 bucks.
Don't forget spring removal tool, plus some wooden dowls to hold up the lifters.
Also get a longer bolt that will thread into the crankshaft, this will give you enough threads to remove the ballancer, and will prevent you from screwing up your threads, the stock bolt may work, but only grab 2 or 3 threads, inn which case they could become distorted on the crankshaft and you'll then need to fix them. You'll need a new bolt as well.
Its a 01WS-6, should have the LS-6 oil pump. yeah its dangerous holding on to the valve keepers (lots of white lithium geese works when replacing (have to change the oil after cam break in any way). About the ballancer, I think we can leave the bolt in or take it out and use a pulley puller to get it loose. Oh and some pen magnetnets are going to hold the lifters in place. Holding the vaulve up, didn't think of that! Hopefully the stroke in the engine doesnt screw with the stock valve lenght plus chamber size and will not be able to fish out the valve with those pen magnets after the cam install. INPUTS! Please.
get some of those little spring lock retainer things, they are cheap enough and seem to just pop off and get lost.
How are you holding the valves up? If you've got an air compressor get the fitting so you can use it. THe fitting is the same on a compression tester if you have one. Or can be bought for 5 bucks.
Don't forget spring removal tool, plus some wooden dowls to hold up the lifters.
Also get a longer bolt that will thread into the crankshaft, this will give you enough threads to remove the ballancer, and will prevent you from screwing up your threads, the stock bolt may work, but only grab 2 or 3 threads, inn which case they could become distorted on the crankshaft and you'll then need to fix them. You'll need a new bolt as well.
Its a 01WS-6, should have the LS-6 oil pump. yeah its dangerous holding on to the valve keepers (lots of white lithium geese works when replacing (have to change the oil after cam break in any way). About the ballancer, I think we can leave the bolt in or take it out and use a pulley puller to get it loose. Oh and some pen magnetnets are going to hold the lifters in place. Holding the vaulve up, didn't think of that! Hopefully the stroke in the engine doesnt screw with the stock valve lenght plus chamber size and will not be able to fish out the valve with those pen magnets after the cam install. INPUTS! Please.
Also i don't know if you've thought about the air conditioner, but you must either disconnect the radiator looking part of it, right next to radiator (called the condensor) or you can just bend the tube and hope it doesn't spring a leak. I think most people leave it connected and hope it doesn't break, but personally I unscrew it and just refill it with more R134a. THe pipe that must be bent costs more than the air conditioning refill kit-with cans and kit mine was less than 30 bucks, plus you'll have one in case you ever run out of propellant in the future.
Far as the bolt in the balancer goes you may not have a problem with the old one, on mine, my pulley ran out of threads, so i had to un thread the bolt looser to take up the space, the problem with that is if you unthread it to much, you will screw up the threads in the crank because the bolt is'nt grabing enough threads and thus distorts the crank threads, so you may or may not need a longer bolt, but you'll probably need a longer bolt to put the pulley back on. There is another thread dealing with that actually.
04-26-2007, 10:30 PM
#22
Originally Posted by rollinna65
The ls6 springs are good to ~.550 lift and the asa is only a .525 lift cam so I don't see why there would be a problem. Also, the ls6 cam ramps up faster than the asa cam which is harder on the springs. If I'm missing something let me know, I don't want anything going wrong with the install.
I must have been thinking of the wrong cam, my bad, yea if they are rated that much higher than the actual lift of the cam then you should be fine. Sorry bout the confusion!
04-26-2007, 10:35 PM
#23
i will be installing this cam on saturday too..
i have GM MLS gaskets, 03+ LS6 springs (the orange stripe .580 lift).. 241 heads milled .028 for 63cc's... new locks, valve seals, LS6 oil pump from SDPC, changing to poly motor mounts while everything is off. Im going to use stock retainers and stock seats, from my old heads.
might want to consider changing your motor mounts to poly ones while you are in there. unless you dont take your headers off..
i have GM MLS gaskets, 03+ LS6 springs (the orange stripe .580 lift).. 241 heads milled .028 for 63cc's... new locks, valve seals, LS6 oil pump from SDPC, changing to poly motor mounts while everything is off. Im going to use stock retainers and stock seats, from my old heads.
might want to consider changing your motor mounts to poly ones while you are in there. unless you dont take your headers off..
