Installing ASA cam, what all do I need?
Just my $.02
get some of those little spring lock retainer things, they are cheap enough and seem to just pop off and get lost.
How are you holding the valves up? If you've got an air compressor get the fitting so you can use it. THe fitting is the same on a compression tester if you have one. Or can be bought for 5 bucks.
Don't forget spring removal tool, plus some wooden dowls to hold up the lifters.
Also get a longer bolt that will thread into the crankshaft, this will give you enough threads to remove the ballancer, and will prevent you from screwing up your threads, the stock bolt may work, but only grab 2 or 3 threads, inn which case they could become distorted on the crankshaft and you'll then need to fix them. You'll need a new bolt as well.
post back with a soundclip or video and some impressions
I ordered the cam and the cam install kit, new seals (2 kits of 8), new locks ( 32) , ls6 springs Thunder racing ported ls6 oil pump with the pan gasket, oring and the other gasket, comp 7.425 pushrods, tool from ebay to hold lifters up, ASP Pulley, new belts, ls2 chain, prothane poly motor and trans mounts.
I will also be installing my long tubes, x + td's, ls6 intake and ported tb, as well as a tci 3000 stall, hopefully soon.
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get some of those little spring lock retainer things, they are cheap enough and seem to just pop off and get lost.
How are you holding the valves up? If you've got an air compressor get the fitting so you can use it. THe fitting is the same on a compression tester if you have one. Or can be bought for 5 bucks.
Don't forget spring removal tool, plus some wooden dowls to hold up the lifters.
Also get a longer bolt that will thread into the crankshaft, this will give you enough threads to remove the ballancer, and will prevent you from screwing up your threads, the stock bolt may work, but only grab 2 or 3 threads, inn which case they could become distorted on the crankshaft and you'll then need to fix them. You'll need a new bolt as well.
Its a 01WS-6, should have the LS-6 oil pump. yeah its dangerous holding on to the valve keepers (lots of white lithium geese works when replacing (have to change the oil after cam break in any way). About the ballancer, I think we can leave the bolt in or take it out and use a pulley puller to get it loose. Oh and some pen magnetnets are going to hold the lifters in place. Holding the vaulve up, didn't think of that! Hopefully the stroke in the engine doesnt screw with the stock valve lenght plus chamber size and will not be able to fish out the valve with those pen magnets after the cam install. INPUTS! Please.
I ordered the cam and the cam install kit, new seals (2 kits of 8), new locks ( 32) , ls6 springs Thunder racing ported ls6 oil pump with the pan gasket, oring and the other gasket, comp 7.425 pushrods, tool from ebay to hold lifters up, ASP Pulley, new belts, ls2 chain, prothane poly motor and trans mounts.
I will also be installing my long tubes, x + td's, ls6 intake and ported tb, as well as a tci 3000 stall, hopefully soon.
I think I need hardened pushrods too, with all the trouble from stock ones, but I have low miles (45K) and little lift, never missed a shift (B&M ripper) as for as the chain, I'll be digging in my motor come +80K. Allready have energy mount, and not really worried about gaskets yet, have many parts stores nearby.
Rollers rockers, I might be better off waiting till later, but a little more lift from .525 would be nice. Maybe when I'm closer to a new motor. The valve train is pretty loose stock anyways. The LS-6 springs are comming with the cam. Does that UD pulley effect your alt., A/C,etc.?
Last edited by 01Wickedwench; Apr 25, 2007 at 11:22 AM.
You said the LS6 springs are good to .550, which ones are you using? My LS6 springs are good to .580 lift (according to Lingenfelter)
You said the LS6 springs are good to .550, which ones are you using? My LS6 springs are good to .580 lift (according to Lingenfelter)





