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Old 05-04-2007, 02:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Z28 MeTaL HeAd
Ive never heard of the stud going through a block before, especially on these.

We did clean out the holes and then spray them with air to remove any water and bits of crap.
Old 05-04-2007, 02:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Z28 MeTaL HeAd
The motor never ran. We cranked it over a few times to prime the oil pump with a flick at the key, not a constant crank, a few very quick spurts, that is all, on the last crank the motor stopped turning and we heard a thuds (which was the cylinder number 1 cylinder filled with water.

After this happened, I hand cranked the motor counter-clockwise, away from the point where it stopped spinning. It went 1 full rotation backwards. After some more hand cranking I couldnt figure out what else to do, JinxedZ decided to go for another crank with the starter, where it went 'thud' again.

The motor NEVER actually fired over, it didnt even think about it.

Thanks for clarifying man. I may not have been clear in my original post.

Is there any way to test what EDS01SS stated? Compression test?
Old 05-04-2007, 02:54 PM
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forum seems a bit messed
Old 05-05-2007, 07:51 AM
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Originally Posted by jinxedz
Thanks for clarifying man. I may not have been clear in my original post.

Is there any way to test what EDS01SS stated? Compression test?
No not really. Although a compression test isnt a bad idea, it cant be done when you cant make a rotation on the crankshaft...

My only suggestion right now is to drain all the water out of the block/rad. and than bolt the rockers back down and see if it will hand crank a full rotation than.
Old 05-05-2007, 11:17 AM
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Sounds like it hydrolocked
Old 05-05-2007, 01:11 PM
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Sounds like you need to just pull the head and see what you have, period. Not to be a smart-***, but you just don't know.
Old 05-05-2007, 03:13 PM
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I'm reading this thread you used GM head gaskets. Could you have install them backwards they say front on them maybe you flipped that side by accident. They only other thing it could maybe be is the port job.
Old 05-05-2007, 04:46 PM
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You might try this procedure as you do your reassembly. Instead of waiting until everything is buttoned up to spin the crank why not put the old crank bolt in and while you're doing the reassembly put a wrench on the crank and spin it over(plugs removed) every once in a while. That way if you make a mistake you'll catch is right away instead of being suprised to find the engine won't even spin over after you have the job done as you were. You sound like you were very thorough in doing the job, but you obviously made a mistake somewhere along the way or you would be asking for help now. This added step only takes a few extra minutes to do, but it would have paid BIG benefits in your case.
Old 05-05-2007, 04:54 PM
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hate to be the bearer of bad news, but you CAN bend rods by "flicking" the starter. I did it to a 4 cyl. long time ago at work when I changed the fuel inj. and all the fuel in the rail went directly down into the cyl. when I tried to start it after I was "done", it canked over about 1 or 2 rev's and went BANG. that was it. I kinda knew what it was right away. the rod was bent over like a limp dick. Id pull the #1 head and get a look at the piston/cyl. walls/head inside and out. before you pull it though, Id take off the intake and look down the int. runner and see if I can see where it is machined through (if thats the problem). if you dont see it, then get yourself a coolant press. tester (its a hand pump that will pressurise the coolant system) and press. the system and SEE where the coolant is comeing in at. ofcourse you need to refill it though. also, better drain the oil to get the water out of the oil.

good luck.
Old 05-06-2007, 12:09 AM
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Just take the thing apart and find out where is the problem. I would seriously doubt any head related problem since motor never fired.
I still think as i said that cyl # 1 was cracked by wrong stud install or water in bolt hole.

Last edited by PREDATOR-Z; 05-06-2007 at 06:48 AM.
Old 05-06-2007, 05:00 AM
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Originally Posted by PREDATOR-Z
Just take the thing apart and find out where is the problem. I would seriously doubt any head related problem since motor never fired.
I still think as i said that cyl # 1 was cracked by wrong stud install or water in bolt hole.
Agree, all the guessing is interesting but the heads need to come off regardless unless you're considering just trashing the engine and getting a new one.

Once the heads are off, we'll know what the problem is.

Last edited by PREDATOR-Z; 05-06-2007 at 12:40 PM.
Old 05-06-2007, 07:00 AM
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Originally Posted by 98SS2836
I'm reading this thread you used GM head gaskets. Could you have install them backwards they say front on them maybe you flipped that side by accident. They only other thing it could maybe be is the port job.
Yup they sure do say Front and 'This side up' also. They were installed exactly how they should have been.
Old 05-06-2007, 07:04 AM
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Originally Posted by eallanboggs
You might try this procedure as you do your reassembly. Instead of waiting until everything is buttoned up to spin the crank why not put the old crank bolt in and while you're doing the reassembly put a wrench on the crank and spin it over(plugs removed) every once in a while. That way if you make a mistake you'll catch is right away instead of being suprised to find the engine won't even spin over after you have the job done as you were. You sound like you were very thorough in doing the job, but you obviously made a mistake somewhere along the way or you would be asking for help now. This added step only takes a few extra minutes to do, but it would have paid BIG benefits in your case.
I agree in spinning the motor over after finishing a job here and there, thats a really good idea, however JinxedZ really needed/needs his car up and running, its going to be his summer daily driver and is/was supposed to be as of tomorrow, not that we were rushing, we *WERE* taking our time to do everything correctly, and we did everything step by step as the LS1howto.com and installuniversity guides say, as well as many write ups here on LS1Tech...

Im very confident we did NOT install anything incorrectly.
Old 05-06-2007, 07:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Irocss85
hate to be the bearer of bad news, but you CAN bend rods by "flicking" the starter. I did it to a 4 cyl. long time ago at work when I changed the fuel inj. and all the fuel in the rail went directly down into the cyl. when I tried to start it after I was "done", it canked over about 1 or 2 rev's and went BANG. that was it. I kinda knew what it was right away. the rod was bent over like a limp dick. Id pull the #1 head and get a look at the piston/cyl. walls/head inside and out. before you pull it though, Id take off the intake and look down the int. runner and see if I can see where it is machined through (if thats the problem). if you dont see it, then get yourself a coolant press. tester (its a hand pump that will pressurise the coolant system) and press. the system and SEE where the coolant is comeing in at. ofcourse you need to refill it though. also, better drain the oil to get the water out of the oil.

good luck.
Oh I know you 'can' bend a rod by looking at it even "There is no spoon", lol, but the motor never cranked over/fired, at all. It was literally just a few clicks from the starter.

Thats a good idea about the coolant pressure tester...regardless the heads have to come out though...
Old 05-06-2007, 07:09 AM
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Originally Posted by PREDATOR-Z
Just take the thing apart and find out where is the problem. I would seriously doubt any head related problem since motor never fired.
I still think as i said that cyl # 1 was cracked by wrong stud install or water in bolt hole.
Water in bolt hole? Where the studs are? Im fairly certain their wasnt any water in there, each hole was cleaned and aired out.
Old 05-06-2007, 07:10 AM
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Originally Posted by DaddySS
Agree, all the guessing is interesting but the heads need to come off regardless unless you're considering just trashing the engine and getting a new one.

Once the heads are off, we'll know what the problem is.
And thats whats going to happen. The heads have to come off regardless, the only thing is time/work schedules.
Old 05-06-2007, 08:40 AM
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well, the reason I suggested to use the press. tester first to build press in the coolant system is if its a hairline crack say, in teh floor of the port, you might not be able to see it with the head off. if you find the leak first, or atleast figure out that its not leaking into the port, you know where to look when you do have it off. plus if they overported them and that caused the leak, then they owe you a set of heads and your money back.
Old 05-06-2007, 08:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Z28 MeTaL HeAd
You would be wrong. The ARP stud kit comes with ARP moly assembly lubricant, Studs, Washers & Nuts. Every single ARP stud I put in myself and used the moly assembly lube on *every* thread of every stud. Once the head was slid over the ARP's, you could see their was threads flush with the head-bolt base-circle, ontop of each base-circle also sat a ARP washer, which took up even 'more' threads.

The ARP's are not the issue, all nuts definitely were torque'd down correctly without issue.
I said the bolts not studs there is a difference there chief...if you used studs then it could not possible be the ARPs.
Old 05-06-2007, 11:38 AM
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Pull the intake off with coolant in the engine and see if the intake runner for number 1 in the head is full of water. Sounds like a porting job that was a bit too much possibly. You've got to take it apart any way so start with the intake and check that 1st.
Old 05-06-2007, 10:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Irocss85
hate to be the bearer of bad news, but you CAN bend rods by "flicking" the starter. I did it to a 4 cyl. long time ago at work when I changed the fuel inj. and all the fuel in the rail went directly down into the cyl. when I tried to start it after I was "done", it canked over about 1 or 2 rev's and went BANG. that was it. I kinda knew what it was right away. the rod was bent over like a limp dick. Id pull the #1 head and get a look at the piston/cyl. walls/head inside and out. before you pull it though, Id take off the intake and look down the int. runner and see if I can see where it is machined through (if thats the problem). if you dont see it, then get yourself a coolant press. tester (its a hand pump that will pressurise the coolant system) and press. the system and SEE where the coolant is comeing in at. ofcourse you need to refill it though. also, better drain the oil to get the water out of the oil.

good luck.
This is true, but you have to remember, different engines are built differently.

Connecting rods arent the same for all cars, nor are starters.

I would be really suprised if we did any damage to the rod.

The only thing i noticed when we did all this was that the starter spun freely at the last attempt, meaning 2 things, the teeth on the starter have now been chewed off, or the flywheel teeth have been chewed off.

As for damage to the actual bottom end, i dont know, if it took an over-rev, i doubt a bit of water would hurt it, unless the starter makes so much torque that it could have done that damage.

One of the heads is off, and the other one is coming off this week.

Also, when the head is off, we will do a hand cracking procedure to just see if the pistons come all the way up, if the rod was bent it'd have difficulty, and most likely not even come up all the way.



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