Damn!!!! Help
05-15-2007, 11:12 PM
#21
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Originally Posted by formula001
No I was not there. I live about an hour or so away from the shop. What else is fishy is that I got a phone call from them telling me I had to sign a waiver before they put it on the dyno. So I figure that is normal procedures and they fax one over to me. Then about an hour or two later I get a phone call telling me what had happened.
yea that is true. u DO have to sign a waver before they dyno tune it..i did.. but... i dunno man..just dosnt feel rite.. if possible id take the day off, and go make sure they re-check everything... much better to lose a day at work,and find out for sure..then just spend 3 g's that coulda been avoided.
05-15-2007, 11:18 PM
#22
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Originally Posted by formula001
No I was not there. I live about an hour or so away from the shop. What else is fishy is that I got a phone call from them telling me I had to sign a waiver before they put it on the dyno. So I figure that is normal procedures and they fax one over to me. Then about an hour or two later I get a phone call telling me what had happened.
Dude this all sounds as if they are trying to *** rape you prison style. you need to be in their *** beacuse if they install the cam and the cam bearing spins......um its a pretty good chance it spun from their installation. bottomline is they cant disprove what i just said. i know this if a cam bearing spins because i either installed the cam or its bearing...i am resposible for it and fixing it just like they are.
like you said they are sponsers or whatever for this site. they try to **** you; you tell the world and that world is in here.
05-15-2007, 11:22 PM
#23
If it's a shady shop, and they did pinch the o-ring, they sure aren't going to tell you. If they charge you for a full tune when you lost a motor on the dyno during tuning, I'd take it somewhere else. I don't like the cold buisness style.
05-15-2007, 11:40 PM
#24
Real quick- what is this O-Ring that you are all talking about...
As far as your Engine goes, they didn't break in the Cam Bearings to the new Cam, plain and simple.
I do it this way.. when I put the Cam in the Engine, I get it all lubed up with Assembly Lube, I mean until it's practically dripping in the ****, Lube the Bearings, and put it in. You can never have too much of that **** on anything, I go through a Tube on the Crank and the Rods, and another on the Cam. Then once it's running, get it warmed up and let it run at constant 2000 RPM's for about 20 min.
Then I drive it around for a while before bringing it up into the higher RPMs..that's just a personal thing.
Even with this new Engine that I am building, I am goin to put a nice easy 2000 miles on it before rompin on it. I am goin to start bringing it into the higher RPM's around the 1500 mark, but really start pushing it all the way at around the 2000 mark. That's just how I do it.. and results show.
They didn't break it in properly.
As far as your Engine goes, they didn't break in the Cam Bearings to the new Cam, plain and simple.
I do it this way.. when I put the Cam in the Engine, I get it all lubed up with Assembly Lube, I mean until it's practically dripping in the ****, Lube the Bearings, and put it in. You can never have too much of that **** on anything, I go through a Tube on the Crank and the Rods, and another on the Cam. Then once it's running, get it warmed up and let it run at constant 2000 RPM's for about 20 min.
Then I drive it around for a while before bringing it up into the higher RPMs..that's just a personal thing.
Even with this new Engine that I am building, I am goin to put a nice easy 2000 miles on it before rompin on it. I am goin to start bringing it into the higher RPM's around the 1500 mark, but really start pushing it all the way at around the 2000 mark. That's just how I do it.. and results show.
They didn't break it in properly.
05-15-2007, 11:43 PM
#25
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the o-ring is a lil rubber ring that slides on the pick up tube.. then you bolt the pick up tube to the oil pump..if the o-ring is pinched or not sitting rite. it will result in low, or no oil pressure..
also i just thought of something..did you get a double roller chain? if so then there is a posibility that they did not put the shims on correctly, and is blocking your oil flow.
also i just thought of something..did you get a double roller chain? if so then there is a posibility that they did not put the shims on correctly, and is blocking your oil flow.
05-15-2007, 11:46 PM
#26
Yes I did get a double roller chain.
Originally Posted by stangkiller2005
the o-ring is a lil rubber ring that slides on the pick up tube.. then you bolt the pick up tube to the oil pump..if the o-ring is pinched or not sitting rite. it will result in low, or no oil pressure..
also i just thought of something..did you get a double roller chain? if so then there is a posibility that they did not put the shims on correctly, and is blocking your oil flow.
also i just thought of something..did you get a double roller chain? if so then there is a posibility that they did not put the shims on correctly, and is blocking your oil flow.
05-15-2007, 11:46 PM
#27
Originally Posted by stangkiller2005
the o-ring is a lil rubber ring that slides on the pick up tube.. then you bolt the pick up tube to the oil pump..if the o-ring is pinched or not sitting rite. it will result in low, or no oil pressure..
I am still getting fine-tuned to the LSX Engines, learning all the little ****..
05-15-2007, 11:48 PM
#28
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Originally Posted by the_merv
That's what I was thinking, just making sure. Thanks.
I am still getting fine-tuned to the LSX Engines, learning all the little ****..
I am still getting fine-tuned to the LSX Engines, learning all the little ****..
i learned a **** load when i did my cam install.. alot of things you learn by just working on the car yourself.. you need a guide at first of coarse to learn..but these motors are pretty easy to work on.. and fairly easy to learn how things tick on the mighty lsx motors
sorry for the off topic...
05-15-2007, 11:49 PM
#29
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Originally Posted by formula001
Yes I did get a double roller chain.
now there are two things you can look for..
shims being backwards, and pick up tube
o and just FYI..the shims im talkin about are two thin peices of metal that go in between the oil pump, and block...to give clearance for the chain.. thers holes so that the oil can flow freely through them...if placed wrong..you can have an oil pressure problem
05-16-2007, 12:04 AM
#30
Me personally, I like to hear it myself. Then again I know what to look/listen for. If it was mine, I would go there, be like give me the keys..and I would start it myself and see what it does..if I blow it up, I blow the ****** up..that way I know I did it, and them I would tear it apart, and tell them what they did wrong. Then I would be like "hey, you got your work guaranteed, cause you just bought me a new Engine.."
Yes I am that Confident with my work and knowledge..expecially something like this. I've spun Rod Bearings and Main Bearings, you know when that **** happens, sounded like hell...Cam Bearings do the same thing.
We can give you a more definate answer when you see it for yourself, and post it up.
Yes I am that Confident with my work and knowledge..expecially something like this. I've spun Rod Bearings and Main Bearings, you know when that **** happens, sounded like hell...Cam Bearings do the same thing.
We can give you a more definate answer when you see it for yourself, and post it up.
05-16-2007, 12:08 AM
#31
Originally Posted by stangkiller2005
same here bro
i learned a **** load when i did my cam install.. alot of things you learn by just working on the car yourself.. you need a guide at first of coarse to learn..but these motors are pretty easy to work on.. and fairly easy to learn how things tick on the mighty lsx motors
i learned a **** load when i did my cam install.. alot of things you learn by just working on the car yourself.. you need a guide at first of coarse to learn..but these motors are pretty easy to work on.. and fairly easy to learn how things tick on the mighty lsx motors
That and how easy it really is to get cubes out of them. All I have to do to get to my 402ci is drop in a 4.000" Crank, the Block is factory clearanced for it no problem.. find me any Gen I/II that you can get over 400ci that easy.
05-16-2007, 02:58 AM
#32
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thats not the only thing that is amazing about the engines. the iron block 4.8/5.3 liter engines can be bored double what the Gen 1/2 can. i would say the structure of these engines (ls type) are incredibly strong. they should have done engines with this structure a long time ago.
like said earlier the best way to learn about these engines is to do alittle at a time or do it the way i learned it....take it completely apart and put it back together; i guarantee you will have a newfounded respect for the quality of these engines and know why and how are part is made the way it is. i remember when i first did this and all i could say is "wow"....still do!
like said earlier the best way to learn about these engines is to do alittle at a time or do it the way i learned it....take it completely apart and put it back together; i guarantee you will have a newfounded respect for the quality of these engines and know why and how are part is made the way it is. i remember when i first did this and all i could say is "wow"....still do!
05-16-2007, 03:24 AM
#33
If everything goes right, I'm about to have a little over 600hp under the hood of my "LT1" Camaro..that will get some people to go "wow, WTf is that?"..
I built my own Harness to get this Engine in my Camaro, and it works, so that pretty much was the deciding factor in all of this..
I built my own Harness to get this Engine in my Camaro, and it works, so that pretty much was the deciding factor in all of this..
05-16-2007, 12:10 PM
#35
They installed the cam, the engine let go while it was still in their shop...you never even turned the key after their work was completed.
Having not read the waiver you signed, it's tough to say what rights you've waived.
However, it's unlikely that a small-claims court judge would agree that you could have voluntarily given up your expectation of satisfactory workmanship in signing the waiver.
Both dyno waivers I've signed in the past only relieved the dyno operator of liability for powertrain/vehicle damage as it related to the operation of the dyno itself. Basically preventing some dud w/ a weak engine from suing them when it wheezed a rod.
If the shop won't proceed in diagnosing or repairing the engine without you paying, it's time to have it towed home and call the local BBB. Next step past that is filing w/ the local Small Claims Court and getting a hearing date.
Having not read the waiver you signed, it's tough to say what rights you've waived.
However, it's unlikely that a small-claims court judge would agree that you could have voluntarily given up your expectation of satisfactory workmanship in signing the waiver.
Both dyno waivers I've signed in the past only relieved the dyno operator of liability for powertrain/vehicle damage as it related to the operation of the dyno itself. Basically preventing some dud w/ a weak engine from suing them when it wheezed a rod.
If the shop won't proceed in diagnosing or repairing the engine without you paying, it's time to have it towed home and call the local BBB. Next step past that is filing w/ the local Small Claims Court and getting a hearing date.
05-16-2007, 12:40 PM
#36
I am working on getting it home as of now. They are trying to charge me full price that we agreed to earlier. But I am not paying for the tune since it was incomplete, so I will see what they say to that.
Originally Posted by crainholio
They installed the cam, the engine let go while it was still
in their shop...you never even turned the key after their work was completed.
Having not read the waiver you signed, it's tough to say what rights you've waived.
However, it's unlikely that a small-claims court judge would agree that you could have voluntarily given up your expectation of satisfactory workmanship in signing the waiver.
Both dyno waivers I've signed in the past only relieved the dyno operator of liability for powertrain/vehicle damage as it related to the operation of the dyno itself. Basically preventing some dud w/ a weak engine from suing them when it wheezed a rod.
If the shop won't proceed in diagnosing or repairing the engine without you paying, it's time to have it towed home and call the local BBB. Next step past that is filing w/ the local Small Claims Court and getting a hearing date.
in their shop...you never even turned the key after their work was completed.
Having not read the waiver you signed, it's tough to say what rights you've waived.
However, it's unlikely that a small-claims court judge would agree that you could have voluntarily given up your expectation of satisfactory workmanship in signing the waiver.
Both dyno waivers I've signed in the past only relieved the dyno operator of liability for powertrain/vehicle damage as it related to the operation of the dyno itself. Basically preventing some dud w/ a weak engine from suing them when it wheezed a rod.
If the shop won't proceed in diagnosing or repairing the engine without you paying, it's time to have it towed home and call the local BBB. Next step past that is filing w/ the local Small Claims Court and getting a hearing date.
