Heads install questions
#1
Heads install questions
I've got some parts sitting in the corner, and have some general questions after searching today...
Current engine:
- Eagle rods & ARP rod bolts
- Wiseco nitrous pistons (unsure of P/N, basically flat with reliefs, maybe very small dome)
- Perimeter bolt heads & valve covers
- Grotyohann headers
- Ported SLP oil pump
- Comp Cams OEM replacement lifters
- NGK TR55 plugs
- ASP crank pulley
- Stock roller rockers
- LS6 intake w/ plugs at rear of block and single line at front
- LS6 valley cover PCV conversion
Sitting in storage:
- TSP PRC 5.3L Stg 2.5 heads, 2.02/1.575, 59cc, Platinum Dual springs (.660 lift)
- ARP head bolts
- Used center bolt valve covers, mounting hardware & gaskets
- Cometic .040 gaskets
- Comp 227/235 .644/.650 110+2 LSK lobes
- Caddy Racing lifters
- NGK TR6 plugs
- Water pump gaskets ( 2 x 12588372)
- Front seal ( 1 x 12585673)
- Timing cover gasket (1 x 12574294)
- Stock Crank bolt (1 x 12557840) - except I'll need to re-use my custom long crank bolt
Undecided purchases:
- QTP or ARH headers (boils down to which tuck up to the chassis the best without rattling)
- Yella Terra light weight rockers
- Adjustable timing chain and oil pickup o-ring
- L67 injectors (39#@58psi)
The questions:
- Is the new cam 'big' enough to worry about damaging the Caddy lifters and/or stock rockers?
- I read that the Caddy racing valvetrain uses a certain rate spring with these lifters. Should I have any concerns about using the Platinum springs with the Caddy lifters?
- Do the Yella Terra Ultra Lights use the stock installation procedure, or the method posted for the older YT's on LS1Howto.com?
- Can I re-use the coolant sensor or should I buy a new one?
- When do you need to consider additional fuel system upgrades beyond injectors?
- Is it better to use a checking spring with the desired lifter, or a solid lifter with the desired spring when checking lifter preload, or is it effectively the same? I think I'd prefer to use a solid lifter so I didn't need to remove springs from the assembled head but I haven't found a place to buy just one.
- If I need an adjustable timing chain, which one(s) should I consider? New gear also?
- Can I re-use the Cometic gasket? Once for checking PtV, once for final assembly, etc? Else can I re-use the old graphite gasket for checking ptv and just subract the difference (.052-.040)?
- How can I determine my specific pistons without removal?
- Cam degreeing: clay, dial indicator, or both?
- Gap the TR6's to .045?
- Heads are assembled and TSP says they're already setup optimally with new seats. Many say to shim to within .050 coil bind. Leave them as-is or check them?
- Everything will properly install with OEM specifications with the exception of the ARP head bolts (3 passes - 30/50/70, right?)?
Anything odd I might run into during the swap regarding fittings between different styles of heads?
I don't want to spend a heckuva lot more money on this project, but I don't want to have to touch it again until it's time to replace valvesprings... from normal wear, that is!
Current engine:
- Eagle rods & ARP rod bolts
- Wiseco nitrous pistons (unsure of P/N, basically flat with reliefs, maybe very small dome)
- Perimeter bolt heads & valve covers
- Grotyohann headers
- Ported SLP oil pump
- Comp Cams OEM replacement lifters
- NGK TR55 plugs
- ASP crank pulley
- Stock roller rockers
- LS6 intake w/ plugs at rear of block and single line at front
- LS6 valley cover PCV conversion
Sitting in storage:
- TSP PRC 5.3L Stg 2.5 heads, 2.02/1.575, 59cc, Platinum Dual springs (.660 lift)
- ARP head bolts
- Used center bolt valve covers, mounting hardware & gaskets
- Cometic .040 gaskets
- Comp 227/235 .644/.650 110+2 LSK lobes
- Caddy Racing lifters
- NGK TR6 plugs
- Water pump gaskets ( 2 x 12588372)
- Front seal ( 1 x 12585673)
- Timing cover gasket (1 x 12574294)
- Stock Crank bolt (1 x 12557840) - except I'll need to re-use my custom long crank bolt
Undecided purchases:
- QTP or ARH headers (boils down to which tuck up to the chassis the best without rattling)
- Yella Terra light weight rockers
- Adjustable timing chain and oil pickup o-ring
- L67 injectors (39#@58psi)
The questions:
- Is the new cam 'big' enough to worry about damaging the Caddy lifters and/or stock rockers?
- I read that the Caddy racing valvetrain uses a certain rate spring with these lifters. Should I have any concerns about using the Platinum springs with the Caddy lifters?
- Do the Yella Terra Ultra Lights use the stock installation procedure, or the method posted for the older YT's on LS1Howto.com?
- Can I re-use the coolant sensor or should I buy a new one?
- When do you need to consider additional fuel system upgrades beyond injectors?
- Is it better to use a checking spring with the desired lifter, or a solid lifter with the desired spring when checking lifter preload, or is it effectively the same? I think I'd prefer to use a solid lifter so I didn't need to remove springs from the assembled head but I haven't found a place to buy just one.
- If I need an adjustable timing chain, which one(s) should I consider? New gear also?
- Can I re-use the Cometic gasket? Once for checking PtV, once for final assembly, etc? Else can I re-use the old graphite gasket for checking ptv and just subract the difference (.052-.040)?
- How can I determine my specific pistons without removal?
- Cam degreeing: clay, dial indicator, or both?
- Gap the TR6's to .045?
- Heads are assembled and TSP says they're already setup optimally with new seats. Many say to shim to within .050 coil bind. Leave them as-is or check them?
- Everything will properly install with OEM specifications with the exception of the ARP head bolts (3 passes - 30/50/70, right?)?
Anything odd I might run into during the swap regarding fittings between different styles of heads?
I don't want to spend a heckuva lot more money on this project, but I don't want to have to touch it again until it's time to replace valvesprings... from normal wear, that is!