erikthegoalie

iTrader: (29)

pred gave me some good advice...and it actually is the most cost effective...

Keep the MS3, since I like the power (driveability should improve with more tuning) and add 4 degrees of timing....to up the torque, bring the power band down a bit, and lose a lil top ebnd (nothing a lil shot can't replace )

Too bad I have NO knowledge of degreeing cams

E

PREDATOR-Z

you'll have to measure PTV though, to make sure you have enough space on the intake side.

BOWTIE

Oh well... You do not need to know how to degree your camshaft just to advance it. Just get a timing set with multiple key ways and follow the directions carefully. If your cam is truly ground with no advance then advancing it 4-6 degrees will affectively add about .3-.5 to your DCR. I would recommend calling TSP though to make sure it is not already ground with some advance.

erikthegoalie

iTrader: (29)

why have you been ripped Bowtie lol....your advice is good too..like I said, I am taking everyones ideas and molding them into (one) outcome

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BOWTIE

Just a jab at you for giving kudos to Pred when I suggested that to you in multiple threads (I realize he may have suggested it as well in a PM to you). I did suggest that you run it by him or Pat though to see how advancing it 4-6 degrees would affect your valve events. I actually tried to call TSP yesterday to find out how likely it was that your cam was ground with some advance already in it and too see if they knew how much, but they were closed for lunch. Just playing with the numbers using Pianoprodigy's DCR calculator, it looks like your DCR is around 7.78 as is, if this cam has no advance ground in it and would increase to like 8.23 or so just by advancing it 6 degrees giving you an ICL of 107 deg. Of course if you went with 4 deg advance, .040 gaskets, .030 mill and flycut, your MS3 with an ICL of 109 would give you about 8.77 DCR. Again this is all based on the numbers in the calculator and is just an estimate.

nofearracing28

iTrader: (7)

Subscribing to this one....

erikthegoalie

iTrader: (29)

i got nothing but love for ya man lol...

MY DCR BLOWS, you are not the first to tell me that, I think it needs to be changed...I need to get it up to 8.5....

I think I may try a cam swap first since it is the easiest...
I wish I knew how to work that Piano Prodigy calc....but I dont

speed_demon24

iTrader: (6)

Try to get it higher than that, I'm running a 9.0 DCR. I don't know if LT1's can run higher than LT1's though. Do you want to gain lowend, or gain lowend and have less cam surge? You're getting people in here telling you to go with even a bigger cam which will kill your driveability even more.

BOWTIE

Actually advancing the camshaft would be the easiest, cam change the next easiest. The calculator is super easy to use. He has 3 different ones, just pick the one for the LS1 and open it. It will have 3 or 4 Excel pages. One is just a catalog listing all of Comp Cams lobe values that are entered into his spreadsheet. One of them ask you to enter your cam numbers (you have to enter them the way they are listed on his catalog page... i.e. the MS3 numbers advertised by TSP are not what you have to enter, you have to use those that are in his spreadsheet. Just find the XER lobes that are the closest to what TSP has listed, they are 1 deg and a few .001's different from what is listed). Once you have all of the cam stuff entered click on the DCR tab, the values from the cam page are automagically transported into the spreadsheet, then just enter the rest of the numbers you have (i.e. gasket thickness, combustion chamber volume, etc). Everytime you change a value and click outside the box your DCR will be recalculated. It is a really cool tool, though i have been told it is not 100% acurate, but then again unless you measure everything you can not get it 100% anyway.