I understand that, Im just trying to figure out if I will be ok using stock GM head bolts or if I will need to use ARP heads bolts when using ARP head studs.

 

Umm you arent understanding what the studs are then or I am just misreading. You either use stock GM bolts, ARP bolts, or ARP studs, you do not use a mix of the 3. The studs screw into the block and they have nuts and washers that go on the top of the stud to clamp down the head to the block. All you buy is the stud kit and youre good to go.

 

Im a rookie haha, understood and looks like I will be going with the Head stud kit.

 

No problem man, id hate too see ya buy extra **** that you cant use. Good luck. Be sure to clean and dry the **** out of the bolt holes before you put the studs in too.

 

So you dont need to use anything on the stud when you put it into the block? Just screw it in dry by hand till it gets to teh bottom and if your bored take it a quarter turn back? No thread sealer or anything like that? I believe all the holes are "blind" but i just want to double check.

 

Use thread sealer on the threads into the block and just hand tighten them.

 

Thread sealer do you mean loctite or RTV or something else?

 

I meant thread sealer, but loctite or RTV works too.

 

ARP assembly lubricant.

 

On the threads that go into the block use a thread sealer, not assembly lube. Assembly lube goes on the threads that the nut goes on.

 

ive have my heads off both sides and did'nt haft to remove any studs on my LS2 418cid. in my WS6.

 

I really done understand why everyone says you cant keep all the studs in to install and remove. I still have my heater core, a/c and everything and my heads still went on easily with all studs in.

 

how do you get around the radiator and the condenser or do they need to be removed?

 

They arent anywhere near in the way when you pull the heads.

 

If anything, you HAVE to keep the passenger side rear studs in because there isn't enough room to install them or remove them with the head on the motor. I quickly learned after just installing the rear ones, to install all of the studs first, then droop the head on. Much easier, you just need to be careful if doing it alone to line it up properly or else you will start to score the bottom of the head. A second pair of hands to guide the head over the studs is a deffinite help, especially leaning over a fender to do it.

 

I was talking about the cam swap more or less. I guess I should have explained that a little better. I just didn't know if I would have to recharge the freon or what.

 

Just make sure you don't over tighten your nuts. I over tightened mine and heard a pop. It was the threads in the block. I ended up having my buddy that works at GM bring over this kit to fix the threads, had drill out the block and put in something like a heli-coil but better.This all sucked because it was the bolt hole that was againts the firewall so the engine had to be dropped. I was under the gun that week cause I stripped it out on a monday and had the engine out fixed and back in and running by the following monday to make a shootout for GM hightech performance magazine. I did it all after work and by myself and it sucked

 

I had to remove the AC condenser to install my cam shaft on my 00 f-body

 

If your good/lucky you can just swing the condensor up and out of the way without breakin the lines loose in the cam swap.

 

I have always used #2 sealant on the threads going into the block and so far haven't had one leak. I HIGHLY recommend using it.

Also head studs are the way to go, I won't do head bolts ever again.