ARP head stud kit
#21
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Originally Posted by brad8266
ARP studs are so worth it.
-Better clamping force
-Consistent torquing down(100% vertical force applied when torquing compared to bolts where you apply horozontal force)
-Reusable
-Never have to clean the bolt holes in the block out again.
-Better clamping force
-Consistent torquing down(100% vertical force applied when torquing compared to bolts where you apply horozontal force)
-Reusable
-Never have to clean the bolt holes in the block out again.
#22
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Originally Posted by blu1
I understand that, Im just trying to figure out if I will be ok using stock GM head bolts or if I will need to use ARP heads bolts when using ARP head studs.
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Originally Posted by brad8266
Umm you arent understanding what the studs are then or i am juts misreading. You either use stock GM bolts, ARP bolts, or ARP studs, you do not use a mix of the 3. The studs screw into the block and they have nuts and washers that go on the top of the stud to clamp down the head. All you buy is the stud kit and youre good to go.
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Originally Posted by blu1
Im a rookie haha, understood and looks like I will be going with the Head stud kit.
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#25
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So you dont need to use anything on the stud when you put it into the block? Just screw it in dry by hand till it gets to teh bottom and if your bored take it a quarter turn back? No thread sealer or anything like that? I believe all the holes are "blind" but i just want to double check.
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Originally Posted by BIG BAD BLACKSS
So you dont need to use anything on the stud when you put it into the block? Just screw it in dry by hand till it gets to teh bottom and if your bored take it a quarter turn back? No thread sealer or anything like that? I believe all the holes are "blind" but i just want to double check.
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Originally Posted by ls1muscle
ARP assembly lubricant.
#32
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Originally Posted by Randy WS6
ive have my heads off both sides and did'nt haft to remove any studs on my LS2 418cid. in my WS6.
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Originally Posted by cals400ex
how do you get around the radiator and the condenser or do they need to be removed?
#35
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Originally Posted by Stangkilr
I really done understand why everyone says you cant keep all the studs in to install and remove. I still have my heater core, a/c and everything and my heads still went on easily with all studs in.
#37
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Just make sure you don't over tighten your nuts. I over tightened mine and heard a pop. It was the threads in the block. I ended up having my buddy that works at GM bring over this kit to fix the threads, had drill out the block and put in something like a heli-coil but better.This all sucked because it was the bolt hole that was againts the firewall so the engine had to be dropped. I was under the gun that week cause I stripped it out on a monday and had the engine out fixed and back in and running by the following monday to make a shootout for GM hightech performance magazine. I did it all after work and by myself and it sucked