Checking PtoV and pushrod length?
Checking PtoV and pushrod length? I am about to finish getting all these head studs in and need to check my PtoV and pushrod length. I have a dial indicator, a pushrod checker and light weight checker springs so I think I should be able to get that taken care of.
I think I will bolt the head on w/ only 2 valves for one cylinder and do my checks. I have ARP studs and GM MLS gaskets. Do I need to install and fully torque the head? I assume my gaskets can be reused so I can pull the head back off and install the correct springs and valves.
Any input or tips?
I think I need to measure for pushrods first. After I get that taken care of I will measure PtoV. I think I can figure out the pushrod thing. For PtoV I assume I can bring the motor to TDC w/ the intake valve open, and put the dial indicator on the retainer for that valve, set it to 0, then push down the valve w/ my hand (remember checker springs) to get the distance between the valve and the piston. Is this correct?
I think I will bolt the head on w/ only 2 valves for one cylinder and do my checks. I have ARP studs and GM MLS gaskets. Do I need to install and fully torque the head? I assume my gaskets can be reused so I can pull the head back off and install the correct springs and valves.
Any input or tips?
I think I need to measure for pushrods first. After I get that taken care of I will measure PtoV. I think I can figure out the pushrod thing. For PtoV I assume I can bring the motor to TDC w/ the intake valve open, and put the dial indicator on the retainer for that valve, set it to 0, then push down the valve w/ my hand (remember checker springs) to get the distance between the valve and the piston. Is this correct?
Sounds like you have a good game plan. You didn't mention how you were going to keep the dial indicator in place though. It also helps to have a degree wheel so you know about where you are in the 4 stroke cycle. I just put the degree wheel on when I knew I was at TDC. You can use a coat hanger and attach it to a PCV bolt to know where exactly you are on the degree wheel. I don't think you have to fully torque the bolts down either. I just made them pretty snug. I put in the 3 middle ones and one top bolt and it seemed to work fine.
I bought the comp cams kit and then made my own base since the part that screws into the head has the wrong size bolt threads.
Check out my post on how I checked PTVC
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showpost....64&postcount=6
Hope this helps
I bought the comp cams kit and then made my own base since the part that screws into the head has the wrong size bolt threads.
Check out my post on how I checked PTVC
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showpost....64&postcount=6
Hope this helps
