Final questions prior to install
Final questions prior to install *updated: teardown started* So I changed out the red high pressure spring for the lower pressure blue spring. I torqued that little end cap to the proper 109 in/lb, but was I supposed to put toctite on it? It didn't say on the directions. In any case...
Got the cam in today, have ALL the other stuff, just waiting on some tools I rented, should have 'em by the weekend. Few questions before I dive into the install:
1) It says to PLACE the o-ring on the pickup tube, so as not to force it and crush it. what's defined as "PLACING" it on the tube? I know it shouldn't be confusing, and I'm reading too far into it, but regardless...
2) Do I have to clean all the parts? Including springs, pushrods, seats, retainers, etc...
3) When I start it first time, I pull the big white plugs on the coil packs, but do I have to pull a fuse too? That's what I did on my Supra just wondering if the same is done on this...
Thanks again, can't wait! If anyone has a spare "long bolt" to put the pulley on with, and wouldn't mind parting with or lending it... well, I'd appreciate it.
-J
Got the cam in today, have ALL the other stuff, just waiting on some tools I rented, should have 'em by the weekend. Few questions before I dive into the install:
1) It says to PLACE the o-ring on the pickup tube, so as not to force it and crush it. what's defined as "PLACING" it on the tube? I know it shouldn't be confusing, and I'm reading too far into it, but regardless...
2) Do I have to clean all the parts? Including springs, pushrods, seats, retainers, etc...
3) When I start it first time, I pull the big white plugs on the coil packs, but do I have to pull a fuse too? That's what I did on my Supra just wondering if the same is done on this...
Thanks again, can't wait! If anyone has a spare "long bolt" to put the pulley on with, and wouldn't mind parting with or lending it... well, I'd appreciate it.
-J
Last edited by lastcall190; Jun 7, 2007 at 08:43 AM.
Anyone? Also, it says to put a small bead of RTV on the bottom of the timing cover, do I need to let that sit and cure before initial start up? It seems to me as though it'll start leaking right away, or maybe not. Thanks.
-J
-J
My take,...
Yeah, you are, you'll see when you get in there, you can only PLACE it on the tube as far as it will physically sit on there, any more and you'd have to stretch it, which would be counterintuitive, so don't.
A once over wouldn't hurt to get them a bit oily, I think I tried to get SOME oil on all the parts before i put em in, especially if they're new.
I didn't replace seats/retainers so I left them.
I actually "washed" all the rockers in new oil before they went back in, don't ask me why, it just seemed like the right thing to do.
Nope, those will keep it from sparking and just let it turnover and pump a bit with oil.
So really your just cranking it, not really starting it.
By the time you get everything back together and ready to rock after that it will be plenty cured.
If your ridiculously fast with reassembly, maybe wait another hour, or read the label and see what it says.
I assume your using the ls1howto article, it sounds like you have things covered.
Originally Posted by lastcall190
1) It says to PLACE the o-ring on the pickup tube, so as not to force it and crush it. what's defined as "PLACING" it on the tube? I know it shouldn't be confusing, and I'm reading too far into it, but regardless...
Originally Posted by lastcall190
2) Do I have to clean all the parts? Including springs, pushrods, seats, retainers, etc...
I didn't replace seats/retainers so I left them.
I actually "washed" all the rockers in new oil before they went back in, don't ask me why, it just seemed like the right thing to do.
Originally Posted by lastcall190
3) When I start it first time, I pull the big white plugs on the coil packs, but do I have to pull a fuse too?
So really your just cranking it, not really starting it.
Originally Posted by lastcall190
Also, it says to put a small bead of RTV on the bottom of the timing cover, do I need to let that sit and cure before initial start up? It seems to me as though it'll start leaking right away, or maybe not.
If your ridiculously fast with reassembly, maybe wait another hour, or read the label and see what it says.
I assume your using the ls1howto article, it sounds like you have things covered.
1. put the o ring over the pickup tube and seat it against the bottom. you will see when you get it pulled out. also tie some fishing line around the bolt for the pickup tube.. you will inevitably drop that bolt 500 times before you get it out.. this and the crank pully were the only hard parts about the whole install.
2. hopefully your not reusing the stock springs and pushrods.. but no you can just throw them in .
3. no just pull the white weathertight plugs. crank, plug back in and start it up.
4. make sure you get that long bolt!! you will regret it if you dont
5. the rtv will cure itself. dont worry about it.
2. hopefully your not reusing the stock springs and pushrods.. but no you can just throw them in .
3. no just pull the white weathertight plugs. crank, plug back in and start it up.
4. make sure you get that long bolt!! you will regret it if you dont
5. the rtv will cure itself. dont worry about it.
Thanks a lot guys. Yep using the ls1howto.com writeup... forgot to get the long rod bolt, but went to the hardware store today assuming the worst, and he looked at me like I was an alien when he said they had it and I threw my hands up in rejoice. Only 3 bucks too. Grade 8.8, is that bad? I know they have 10.9 but they didn't have that...
No not using stock springs, have the Patriot Extreme Golds, and Comp 7.45" Rods
Thanks for the tip on getting the new parts at least a little oily... I have so much spare oil from the oil changes that it wont be a problem. Got the car backed in using a 36 point K-turn in my driveway, gonna start the tear down tomorrow.
-J
No not using stock springs, have the Patriot Extreme Golds, and Comp 7.45" Rods
Thanks for the tip on getting the new parts at least a little oily... I have so much spare oil from the oil changes that it wont be a problem. Got the car backed in using a 36 point K-turn in my driveway, gonna start the tear down tomorrow.
-J
Pulley install tool<---- I'd consider this, or something like this.
[edit] oh wait, that one might not help you with removal, if the end cap comes off you can use it to butt up against when you use the pulley, if your interested in it maybe PM 618HAWK and ask him, if so its totally worth it dude.[/edit]
That way you can just buy the cam swap kit from TSP that comes with all the gaskets and a new crank bolt to use, then just rent a pulley puller from autozone.
$100 is ok for a nice tool, you might use it again, and could loan it out to your F-body pals for $$ if they ever change cams.
[edit] oh wait, that one might not help you with removal, if the end cap comes off you can use it to butt up against when you use the pulley, if your interested in it maybe PM 618HAWK and ask him, if so its totally worth it dude.[/edit]
That way you can just buy the cam swap kit from TSP that comes with all the gaskets and a new crank bolt to use, then just rent a pulley puller from autozone.
$100 is ok for a nice tool, you might use it again, and could loan it out to your F-body pals for $$ if they ever change cams.
Last edited by DirtyJohn; Jun 6, 2007 at 04:24 PM.
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Thanks, when I am installing the new cam and supporting it on its way into the motor, am I hurting anything by having my hands on it to support it? I will have some Nitrile gloves on and presoak the thing in oil, but is all that handing gonna botch anything up? Just curious.
-J
-J
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Verdad Gallardo So I just removed the water pump... and let's just say, there's more than a little coolant that poured out when it was coming up out of the engine bay (it got on my pulleys and whatnot). Is this bad? The writeup said it'd be messy, and it was right 
Did I harm anything? I don't have an enter key so that's why there aren't lines skipped (I'm on the laptop int he garage) -J
Did I harm anything? I don't have an enter key so that's why there aren't lines skipped (I'm on the laptop int he garage) -J Well taking a break, been working for about 2 hours. My thoughts so far?
- Taking the air tube completely OFF on the passenger side is a huge help to not only disconnect the plug wires, but get to some of the bolts on the coil bracket (the one all the way in the back is a huge ******* PITA though, I'll go at it later with some gear wrenches)
- If you have AIR still on the car, the easiest way to get that little bracket on the back most bolt of the driver's side coil bracket (you follow?) is to get a pry bar and use the bolt on the coil pack itself for leverage, sucker comes right off.
- No matter what, coolant is going to go eventually, all over the place. I slowed the bleeding a little, but in the end the only clean part was draining the radiator.
- GM picked an interesting spot for the alternator... when I disconnected the three hoses from the water pump, they all flooded downward right towards some little what looks to be one-pronged connector... is that thing pretty resiliant? Or am I fucked...
- I had to take my TB off to get the water pump up and out of the engine bay, I'm sure if I had been a little vicious with it it'd have come out at some point, but I figured why fight it, the TB is three bolts and a couple hoses...
Gonna get the pass. side coil off later, and go after removing the radiator as well (I don't really feel like tackling that myself, heeding advice from ls1howto.com's writeup). I also have to go out and pick up a deep well 24mm socket too, my friend was nice enough to lend me his 1/2" drive torque wrench.
-J
- Taking the air tube completely OFF on the passenger side is a huge help to not only disconnect the plug wires, but get to some of the bolts on the coil bracket (the one all the way in the back is a huge ******* PITA though, I'll go at it later with some gear wrenches)
- If you have AIR still on the car, the easiest way to get that little bracket on the back most bolt of the driver's side coil bracket (you follow?) is to get a pry bar and use the bolt on the coil pack itself for leverage, sucker comes right off.
- No matter what, coolant is going to go eventually, all over the place. I slowed the bleeding a little, but in the end the only clean part was draining the radiator.
- GM picked an interesting spot for the alternator... when I disconnected the three hoses from the water pump, they all flooded downward right towards some little what looks to be one-pronged connector... is that thing pretty resiliant? Or am I fucked...
- I had to take my TB off to get the water pump up and out of the engine bay, I'm sure if I had been a little vicious with it it'd have come out at some point, but I figured why fight it, the TB is three bolts and a couple hoses...
Gonna get the pass. side coil off later, and go after removing the radiator as well (I don't really feel like tackling that myself, heeding advice from ls1howto.com's writeup). I also have to go out and pick up a deep well 24mm socket too, my friend was nice enough to lend me his 1/2" drive torque wrench.
-J