PLEASE HELP! Broke a bolt off in the end of my crank!
06-11-2007, 02:49 PM
#21
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Livonia, Mi
Posts: 1,455
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by GuitsBoy
Thats your only option at this point. Hope its easy going for them, and it dosnt cost you a second mortgage...
I was told between $125 and $250, depending on how hard it is to get out and if the threads are fucked. We took a micrometer to the outside of the crank this morning, and to the inside of the powerbond pulley. I don't remember the exact difference off the top of my head but there was no way in hell that pulley was going to go on. I'm kinda pissed off now, it was not the bolts fault, I would say the company that sold me the pulley should have said something about it requiring machining to fit, and I'm trying to decide if I should say something about it or not.
06-11-2007, 03:34 PM
#25
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Livonia, Mi
Posts: 1,455
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by GuitsBoy
And an LT1... I'm LTx stoopid.
It's a 4.00" Eagle LSX crank, with a powerbond pulley.
Last edited by Mike94ZLT1; 06-11-2007 at 06:07 PM.
06-11-2007, 06:25 PM
#27
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Chino Hills, CA
Posts: 640
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yeah, hopefully that turns out well for you friend.
on the name change thing. That's why I changed my name to what it is today. It has nothing to do with what car I own so I don't go through name changes when I get a new/different car.
on the name change thing. That's why I changed my name to what it is today. It has nothing to do with what car I own so I don't go through name changes when I get a new/different car.
06-11-2007, 06:26 PM
#28
Originally Posted by Mike94ZLT1
I haven't owned an LT based anything in years, I just think its ******* retarded to change your screen name every time you get a new car. If that was the case it would have changed to Mike95ZLT1, Mike94ZLT1 again, Mike99SSLS1, Mike99C5, and so on
It's a 4.00" Eagle LSX crank, with a powerbond pulley.
It's a 4.00" Eagle LSX crank, with a powerbond pulley.
06-11-2007, 07:29 PM
#29
TECH Apprentice
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Spring, TX
Posts: 325
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
You can use a longer bolt, but it MUST be a Grade 8, black, case hardened bolt. It cannot be a Grade 5 or less zinc coated bolt or a piece of all-thread. If you chose to drill it out, make sure to use a center drill to get a start directly in the CENTER of the bolt. Then start with a small drill and work your way up in small increments to the next drill size. The purpose is to drill the bolt thin enough to where you can peel it out WITHOUT damaging the threads in the crank. I cannot stress how important it is to get a start DIRECTLY in the center of the bolt and then drill straight. If the end of the bolt is broke off uneven, grind it flat first. Good luck man, you need it.
06-11-2007, 08:38 PM
#30
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Livonia, Mi
Posts: 1,455
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Third Gear
Yeah, hopefully that turns out well for you friend.
on the name change thing. That's why I changed my name to what it is today. It has nothing to do with what car I own so I don't go through name changes when I get a new/different car.
on the name change thing. That's why I changed my name to what it is today. It has nothing to do with what car I own so I don't go through name changes when I get a new/different car.Lol, hey CF buddy! You know, I had a NBM 99 SS too, that was the car I was saying I should have kept
06-11-2007, 08:39 PM
#31
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Livonia, Mi
Posts: 1,455
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by GuitsBoy
I figured it was a second car... damn, that the first time ive heard of an eagle crank needing to be turned down to accept a pulley...
06-11-2007, 08:41 PM
#32
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Livonia, Mi
Posts: 1,455
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by sunsetta
You can use a longer bolt, but it MUST be a Grade 8, black, case hardened bolt. It cannot be a Grade 5 or less zinc coated bolt or a piece of all-thread. If you chose to drill it out, make sure to use a center drill to get a start directly in the CENTER of the bolt. Then start with a small drill and work your way up in small increments to the next drill size. The purpose is to drill the bolt thin enough to where you can peel it out WITHOUT damaging the threads in the crank. I cannot stress how important it is to get a start DIRECTLY in the center of the bolt and then drill straight. If the end of the bolt is broke off uneven, grind it flat first. Good luck man, you need it.
I appreciate the help/advice but I already took it somewhere, I'm picking it up tomorrow
06-11-2007, 10:52 PM
#33
Staging Lane
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Houston, Tx
Posts: 69
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Xtnct00WS6
Those helicoils are a friggin blessing. It worked well for me on my lifter tray bolt. Thanks again for suggesting that!
06-11-2007, 11:44 PM
#34
Staging Lane
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Houston, Tx
Posts: 69
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by sunsetta
....If you chose to drill it out, make sure to use a center drill to get a start directly in the CENTER of the bolt. Then start with a small drill and work your way up in small increments to the next drill size. The purpose is to drill the bolt thin enough to where you can peel it out WITHOUT damaging the threads in the crank. I cannot stress how important it is to get a start DIRECTLY in the center of the bolt and then drill straight. If the end of the bolt is broke off uneven, grind it flat first. Good luck man, you need it.
Last edited by Kavslayer; 06-11-2007 at 11:54 PM.
06-12-2007, 04:19 AM
#35
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Thibodaux Louisiana
Posts: 630
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I've gotten broken ez outs aroken taps out by bashing them with a centerpunch they are so hard that they just break up and you blow out the bits. But then you still have an off center hole lol
06-12-2007, 07:53 AM
#36
Originally Posted by Mike94ZLT1
Haha, no way am I going to cut a $1000 crank, I'd rather machine a $200 pulley. Honestly, I would rather it all fit like it was supposed to but oh well, too late now.
06-12-2007, 09:33 AM
#37
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Livonia, Mi
Posts: 1,455
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by GuitsBoy
What about the crank timing sprocket? That fit without issue?
Fit perfectly! Going to go pick up my engine now, I'll report back when I get it.
06-12-2007, 10:24 AM
#39
I have had this happen before and I was able to stick my finger in there, press on the broken bolt and back it out. The reason I was able to do this being that without the bolt head there is no pressure on the threads due to the stretching force of the bolt. I damn near **** a twinkie at first at the sight of the broken bolt in the crank and my initial reaction was the same as yours to get the EZ Out going. Just for ***** I stuck my finger in there and voila the damn thing backed right out. The only thing that could prevent this same method from working is a galled/crossthreaded bolt or a tapered crank thread. Moral of the story is don't always jump to the most forceful method before exhausting every other option; I was about 5 minutes from EZ Outing before I tried this...
06-29-2007, 08:42 PM
#40
TECH Apprentice
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Paxs River, MD
Posts: 335
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Mike94ZLT1
Fit perfectly! Going to go pick up my engine now, I'll report back when I get it.