Fired the new engine up, ran it for 15 min, changed oil... now what?
06-27-2007, 12:56 PM
#21
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Originally Posted by PREDATOR-Z
The rings will seat in the first 20 min of operation. That is why it should be taken to 4>4.5K rpms a few times as soon as it warms.
Then you drive it a different loads and gears, but not on highway. It needs to vary rpms for a while, about 3 heat cycles or so.
Check everything and hammer away.
Then you drive it a different loads and gears, but not on highway. It needs to vary rpms for a while, about 3 heat cycles or so.
Check everything and hammer away.
I used the highway late at night so I could go over 45 mph and not worry about it, it only stayed at the same rpm range for a few seconds at most. Did the same thing again last night, went out, got on the expressway running it through the gears up to 70-75, then let the engine pull itself down running through the gears, getting on and off every entrance or exit, did it about 30 times. I changed the oil yesterday at 125 miles, looked pretty good to me.
I've got about 230 miles on it now, I will drive it 35-40 miles at a time and then let her rest for a few hours.
06-29-2007, 02:36 PM
#22
I'll be going down this path within a week or two. So as far as parts, just keep changing the oil with dyno oil a few times before 500 miles, and then I can switch to synthetic (just to save money). What about filters... should I be using high-quality filters during break-in or is that overkill?
06-29-2007, 02:58 PM
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I've got about 460 miles on it now, I have been using Rotella 15w40 and WIX filters. Changed it at 15 minutes, then again at 125 miles. Gonna change it again at around 500, and I'd like to get it tuned asap so I can romp on it!
06-29-2007, 03:03 PM
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Originally Posted by LS1curious
Drive it like you stole it. Break-In means It breaks or it stays In. If its built wrong no amount of Break-in period is going to fix it. Just delaying the inveitable. Geter up to temp and romp on it.
06-29-2007, 10:34 PM
#25
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A compromise between the two approaches is best IMHO. Go 2/3 to 3/4 throttle in a nice smooth motion, stay off the redline (about 4500rpms shouild be the max). Do that several times, keep your RPMs varied, put it under load but not lugging, then let it cool down completely. Run it that way for 2 or three heat cycles, then drive it that way for the first 500 miles, change the oil and you'll be good to go. The idea is to put a good load on the rings and a wide range of loads on the bearings so they break in nice and evenly too.
So basically don't baby it and don't beat it and you'll be fine.
So basically don't baby it and don't beat it and you'll be fine.
06-29-2007, 11:06 PM
#26
i am also on the same boat right now, but my situation is that my car is open header, i will get an exhaust put on next week, but in the mean time can i break in the motor this way? will anything happen? what about turning it on and leaving it on for a while at a time? im not worried about the cops or anything, just the motor itself! thanks in advance!
p.s. sorry if i am hijacking ur thread but i thought this was a good thread to ask my question!
p.s. sorry if i am hijacking ur thread but i thought this was a good thread to ask my question!
06-30-2007, 12:11 AM
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Originally Posted by 4yall2nv
p.s. sorry if i am hijacking ur thread but i thought this was a good thread to ask my question!
06-30-2007, 09:11 AM
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Originally Posted by JimMueller
Hmm, how about the fuel system? I was planning on delaying buying upgraded injectors (I have the '98 OEM's) until a little down the road. Would having too small of injectors cause any problems with break-in?
Well, they are definitely too small for anything over a 346, however if you change them without changing the tune to compensate for a larger injector you will run into all kinds of problems. I at least had a good tune for a cam before I did all this, so while my tune is way off its a hell of alot better than trying this on a stock tune. Maybe you should look into a mail order tune before you fire it up? It wont be anywhere near perfect but it will help you out alot.
06-30-2007, 09:50 AM
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In my humble and probably shouldn't be listened to opinion: Break it in for a few minutes, go up to your local cruise strip, and smoke a Z06. That's what I did 
Been running great ever since. The real key is to run standard petrollium oil for the first 500 miles, then switch to synthetic. You need your rings to seat. After that, no amount of break-in will make a significant difference. I have built engines for years from tiller engines, to go-karts, from Fords to Mopars, and have never found a significant difference past the first few minutes. If you did your engine build correctly, it will be adequetly broken in after a few minutes (15-20) at temp on petrollium oil below 3000rpm. After that, have at it.
I used to rebuild my modified go-kart engines at the track and run them in the next race. But then again, I run a little riskier life than others...
Been running great ever since. The real key is to run standard petrollium oil for the first 500 miles, then switch to synthetic. You need your rings to seat. After that, no amount of break-in will make a significant difference. I have built engines for years from tiller engines, to go-karts, from Fords to Mopars, and have never found a significant difference past the first few minutes. If you did your engine build correctly, it will be adequetly broken in after a few minutes (15-20) at temp on petrollium oil below 3000rpm. After that, have at it.I used to rebuild my modified go-kart engines at the track and run them in the next race. But then again, I run a little riskier life than others...
