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Old Jun 25, 2007 | 12:28 PM
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Default worried about my engine

here is my set up on my 1998 silver Trans Am.

small stealth cam, heads re worked, SLP lid, 3.73 gears, Built 4l60E transmission, pacesetter long tube headers, 3 inch x pipe, dynomax mufflers, EGR block off, Throttle body bypass, K&N filter. The people who did the work wanted to tack on another 2,000 for me to get forged rods and pistons. They said i needed that if i was going to be racing? How would my engine hold up with out doing this stuff.

ps. im a HUGE NEWB when it comes to cars... im just 19 and im just getting into this kind of stuff i love it!!! but please the more help the better.

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ImStock
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Old Jun 25, 2007 | 02:36 PM
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most people just run the stock pistons and rods till they break, then replace it or get a crate motor depending on the damage. Depends on how much you want to roll the dice.
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Old Jun 25, 2007 | 02:49 PM
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so its enevidlible that they will break if i race my car?
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Old Jun 25, 2007 | 03:11 PM
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Originally Posted by ImStock
here is my set up on my 1998 silver Trans Am.

small stealth cam, heads re worked, SLP lid, 3.73 gears, Built 4l60E transmission, pacesetter long tube headers, 3 inch x pipe, dynomax mufflers, EGR block off, Throttle body bypass, K&N filter. The people who did the work wanted to tack on another 2,000 for me to get forged rods and pistons. They said i needed that if i was going to be racing? How would my engine hold up with out doing this stuff.

ps. im a HUGE NEWB when it comes to cars... im just 19 and im just getting into this kind of stuff i love it!!! but please the more help the better.

Thanks,
ImStock
haha those guys who did the work are wrong... you dont need forged anything unless you go supercharger or turbo so you can turn up the boost
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Old Jun 25, 2007 | 03:17 PM
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im over 500rwhp with stock pistons spraying a 125shot...threw a stalled auto.
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Old Jun 25, 2007 | 03:56 PM
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They are just tryin to get further into your pockets. No forged internals are needed unless the at least one of the following applies:

A) Your in need of a rebuild anyway(might as well upgrade)
B) Your gonna go boosted
C) your planning on using a big shot of nitrous

Other than that save your money. I'm gettin ready to do a nice heads/cam swap on my 1999 with 100,500 miles on it & I'm stickin with the stock piston/rods.
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Old Jun 25, 2007 | 07:49 PM
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Oh, ok thanks a lot guys. It sounded weird to me too. I was like god wtf 2k more and if im going to be racing (which im not) but i do enjoy going fast and driving the car that i paid for... But back on point i thought to myself "damn i don't think every one with these cars has forged internals. Cause thats expensive. Thanks guys the more people who reinforce this and/or give past experiences the better, I will feel about it cause as you guys know these cars arn't cheap once you buy it then start to mod... so im nervous. CAUSE I LOVE IT!

Thanks,
ImStock
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Old Jun 25, 2007 | 07:53 PM
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Originally Posted by gtobizman
most people just run the stock pistons and rods till they break, then replace it or get a crate motor depending on the damage. Depends on how much you want to roll the dice.
This is wrong? lol
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Old Jun 26, 2007 | 01:59 PM
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Bump Bump
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Old Jun 26, 2007 | 03:14 PM
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Stock rod bolts can be a weak point; where are you spinning the cam to? Don't go over 6800rpm and you should be fine.
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Old Jun 26, 2007 | 06:14 PM
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its an auto with out a stall but a 4l60E tranny will it shift b4 6800?
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Old Jun 26, 2007 | 06:57 PM
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any one know?
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Old Jun 26, 2007 | 07:16 PM
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Depends on where you're tuner moved the shiftpoints to. Call him, I doubt he set them that high.
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Old Jun 26, 2007 | 07:22 PM
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ok where should i tell him to set them?
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Old Jun 26, 2007 | 07:31 PM
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It depends on how the dyno sheet looks; if it makes power to 6600 , set appropriately. Make sense? No use setting the shiftpoint higher than it is making power at. You said 'stealth' cam; what size is it?
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Old Jun 27, 2007 | 08:12 AM
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If you have a '98, then you have weaker rod bolts. You shouldn't go over like 6400. Somewhere in the 00/01 time frame they started using more stout rod bolts that people generally agree are good to 6800 RPMs.

In my opinion, why pay $2000 now for a rebuild of the exact same thing you had when you can wait until the motor NEEDS a rebuild and apply that $2000 to bigger displacement and a more stout block?
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