trophystock

I have a 99 C5 A4. When I first bought the car I wanted to get it to 6.99@ 100 mph to have a fast street car. The LS1 really do run with very little mods and the car now runs 6.70s@104. I have varraram air box, LS6 intake, stock TB, 42# injectors, stock fuel pump, very small 216/220 cam, 1.85 rockers, GTP stage 2 LS1 heads, LG long tube headers, no cats, STOCK MUFFLERS, 3.42 gear and a Yank 4000SS converter. I run a Dry shot of nitrous. Car made 390 HP NA and 530 on the spray. I run the car on 18" BFG drag radials on stock wheels with a 1.50 60' time. I would like to get it to 6.50s at 110 (I'll stop there I swear). I have been toying with the idea of adding a second dry stage and maybe trying a set of 17" M/T drag radials on it. Anybody have some suggestions about what I can do on the cheap (yes i know nothing is cheap) to squeak a little more out of it?
Thanks!!

Video of the car

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9DRN3hdlwaM

MikeD101898

iTrader: (5)

100 hp= Supercharger or Turbo. Cheap Fast Reliable... pick 2

BlackSVT03

iTrader: (1)

supercharger and turbocharger? cheap?

I think a shot of nitrous would be the cheapest route... far cheaper than any forced induction setup.

A whole good nitrous set up will run maybe $1200... a forced induction setup youre probablly looking $3-4k

Id go nitrous if youre looking for the cheapest way.

Websy21

iTrader: (34)

I agree, I have always liked the ATI kit, too many grey areas with turbo's atleast you know what EXACTLY you are getting with a supercharger. If I had the money, there would be no debate, I would be buying the D-1SC race kit right now!

transamfreak01

iTrader: (8)

well is 100hp all you want so its faster? you could always up the shot a little and take a lot of weight out of the car and throw some skinnies up front. taking weight out isnt going to cost you much at all

Beaflag VonRathburg

iTrader: (176)

There's no way in hell you're going to get some sort of forced induction system for that amount of money. Read this: https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-induction/567592-real-price-forced-induction.html

If you want an extra 100hp go with nitrous like stated above.

slow trap

iTrader: (22)

you have an extremely fast car for no more mods than you have. most anybody would kill for 6.7x @ 104. the 2 tenths will be easier than the 6 mph you are looking for but a second stage sounds like what you need if your fuel system can support it.

BlackSVT03

iTrader: (1)

Its my mistake. I didnt read that he was already running nitrous.

My bad guys

magius231

iTrader: (8)

his point was this:

cheap, fast, reliable - pick 2

this means you can have 2 of these but not all of them. in your case, you can throw another 100hp nitrous on it for pretty cheap and go fast, but your living with a time bomb with that much of a shot on the stock shortblock. Alternately you can go forced induction and get to your power goals pretty easily, but it won't be cheap. building an all motor setup properly will also not be cheap.

pick 2

if it was me, i'd take a lesson from Patrick G ( https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-internal-engine/732392-recipe-500-rwhp-heads-cam.html ) but build for and keep the nitrous shot. You would run strong, be reliable, but it won't be cheap.

trophystock

I am kinda limited on Cam shaft because of the heads are shaved .030" and 1.85 rockers limits me on lift due to piston to valve clearance. Duty cycle on the injectors are at 65% right now so I have room there. The problem with allot of dry nitrous in the air box is it starts to "push out" the normal incoming air and you tend to just run on nitrous so there are some diminishing returns issue with try to spray 200+ shot. Has anybody here have a strong opinion about porting the TB? Is a fast intake and TB 90/90 worth the money at my power level? I am concerned about fuel pump also. Thanks for all the ideas and keep'em coming.

RedWS6 00

Looks dam quick, what 1/4 mile time do you get?

Asmodeus

Pill up, but go with head studs or you could start pushing water. More cubes is always nice too.

PREDATOR-Z

more nitrous but you need a bigger fuel pump.

Convert your system to a dual stage. 100 then another 100

Properly tuned with ample fuel and TR6 gapped .035>.040 should do the trick.

trophystock

I already have arp head studs. I only run the car in the 1/8. I run TR6s now and just pulled them Friday and tightened them up from .050" to .035" gap. I am going to try the dual stage dry and if the tires do not hold maybe swap a set of MT 17" drag radials on there. I am still running stock mufflers and would hate to change them (stock wheels and mufflers for the stealth look) but might have to drop them one time and see if it helps. Thanks for the input guys.