head bolt torque ?
head bolt torque ? Has anyone figured out what the head bolt torque is for stock head bolts? I know that the spec is Xft/lbs + 90deg. but i am looking for AN ACTUALL FT/LBS NUMBER! I cannot get my torque angle meter to fit on the back lower head bolt!
^^g thanks for the info! I don't think that was the Question though was it! I mean, is it in the rules here for every post that someone makes, there has to be at least one person to make a response that is quite possibly the dumbest thing you can say. The question was about a torque number not what the DEGREE should be! If I wanted to know that i would have asked!!
Apparently that information is Top Secret. The GM factory manual is 3k pages and it's not revealed there. There's nothing wrong with the ft/lb plus degree method especially if you have an angle meter. One that one cylinder you can just use the shade tree method of marking the bolt head with a sharpie or some whiteout.
yeah that what i was going to do if i couldn't figure out the actuall tourqe number. Jst figured it was worth a shot to see if someone knew it or not. Thanks 98slowta and eallanboggs for the tip.
You cannot reliably assign a torque value. The reason for the rotation is there is a specific bolt stretch that results from the pitch angle of the threads. Torque is very inaccurate for measuring bolt pre-load unless you properly account for friction in a very reliable and repeatable manner. This is why ARP has their own lube, it allows them to use torque as the measurement.
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Right ^. The 10 (per head) 15 mm GM head bolts are torqued to 22 lb-ft then 90 degrees twice (total of 180 degrees) - in TWO passes. The 5 (per head) 10 mm bolts are torqued to 22 lb ft only - WITHOUT using the torque to yield process.
This is what I did when replacing my LS1 to LS6 heads as per the instructions on LS1HOWTO.COM
This is what I did when replacing my LS1 to LS6 heads as per the instructions on LS1HOWTO.COM
Originally Posted by stocks10
^^g thanks for the info! I don't think that was the Question though was it! I mean, is it in the rules here for every post that someone makes, there has to be at least one person to make a response that is quite possibly the dumbest thing you can say. The question was about a torque number not what the DEGREE should be! If I wanted to know that i would have asked!!
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From: BFE
Originally Posted by stocks10
^^g thanks for the info! I don't think that was the Question though was it! I mean, is it in the rules here for every post that someone makes, there has to be at least one person to make a response that is quite possibly the dumbest thing you can say. The question was about a torque number not what the DEGREE should be! If I wanted to know that i would have asked!!
10 posts and asking help = smart ***??
Originally Posted by 2xLS1
Then set your torque wrench on 150 ft/lbs and click away Mr 10 post smartass.
Originally Posted by stocks10
i didn't know it was a requirement to have 3000 posts to be a smart *** on this site also. IF YOU CAN'T ANSWER A QUESTION THAN WHY RESPOND TO A POST!!! THIS IS THE REASON I ONLY HAVE 10 POSTS, BECAUSE OF STUPID ANSWERS LIKE THAT
BTY just use the marker method like the intellegent couple of people on this site had to recommend
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There is etiquette in answering queries and feedback.
Post 1 Query
Post 2 answer
Post 3 answer
Post 4 smart ***
You will not get much help here with this attitude.
You know these comments can have a reverse self describing effect. I could say that since Mar 04, you only have 140 posts because you are unnable to grasp any of the tech here and to selfish to contribute any knowledge.
Never generalize in life, otherwise you'll be ammazed what section of society you'll fall in.
Post 1 Query
Post 2 answer
Post 3 answer
Post 4 smart ***
You will not get much help here with this attitude.
Originally Posted by 00black ram air
The reason they all have alot of posts is because they can be smart asses because they read up on everything on these cars so they sound good talking about how a shop built it anyways. You see if those of us that build our own cars had shops build them we 2 could have a 1/2 million posts because we have nothing better to do than sit in front of a computer just hoping the shop finishes it soon.
BTY just use the marker method like the intellegent couple of people on this site had to recommend.
BTY just use the marker method like the intellegent couple of people on this site had to recommend.
Never generalize in life, otherwise you'll be ammazed what section of society you'll fall in.
Last edited by PREDATOR-Z; Jul 2, 2007 at 10:48 AM.
I used absolute torque specs on the head bolts in an emergency when I had to actually reuse the TTY bolts. HIGHLY RECOMMENEDED AGAINST, but it held for 2K miles and a number of dyno pulls until I was prepared to do the head swap.
Ill bet you'd like to know what I torqued them to...
...Quit being a jerk and maybe someone will share.
Ill bet you'd like to know what I torqued them to...
...Quit being a jerk and maybe someone will share.
If you feel that you must use a torque reading get yourself some ARP head bolts or head studs and some ARP assembly lube and then you wiil be able to use a torque wrench on the head bolts...other wise you will have to be satisfied on using the method described by the people that have been trying to help you in the above posts..good luck which ever way you decide to go ... personally I went with the ARP .. you can reuse them over and over where the torque to yeild bolts (GM OEM bolts) can only be used once. 
it is not an issue of needing to torque them, i simply stated that my torque angle meter will not fit on the back lower head bolt (LS1 is in an S10 and i do not have the room). So i simply asked if anyone had figured out a way to torque the bolts to a specific value and still get the proper stretch on the bolt. I didn't think the question was to hard to understand. As for being a jerk, everytime i, or someone i know, asks a question on this site, it seems as if there is always someone to say something stupid! Kinda like they read the first sentence of a post and that is all they need to make an answer!
foe example: "the degree finder is only like $9.99 at autozone fyi not to much $$$"
as stated in the First post, "I have a torque angle meter" and i am very familiar with using it!
So to the people who try to help others out, Thank You
As for the others that are just trying to get a high post count, PLEASE JUST DO NOT REPLY TO MY THREADS!!
foe example: "the degree finder is only like $9.99 at autozone fyi not to much $$$"
as stated in the First post, "I have a torque angle meter" and i am very familiar with using it!
So to the people who try to help others out, Thank You
As for the others that are just trying to get a high post count, PLEASE JUST DO NOT REPLY TO MY THREADS!!
If the angle meter won't fit, I usually try to get the wrench at an angle that is close to something obvious with enough swing to get to another obvious angle. For example, if I can get the wrench at 45 degrees and swing through another 90 degrees (say 2 o'clock to roughly 4:30) with a mark on the bolt you will be pretty darn close and also not over-rotate.
