I am in the process of picking out a good H/C setup that will work for me, this is my first time with an LS1 car and I am looking for any and all advice. First things first this will be going on the car in my sig. the only variable is the fact that this car will be getting a D1SC in the future, at that point the engine will get pulled to install a lower comp. forged bottom end. So my thoughts are to go with the PRC LS6 stage 2.5 heads w/ 64cc. cambers, the 2.02 intake and a VRX3 cam on a 114 LSA. Will this H/C setup compliment the added boost of the procharger or would something else work better, I don't mind giving up a few h.p.'s now if it would benefit later on with the charger. A couple more questions: replace the oil pump with a ported/unported LS6, O.E. gasket set or aftermarket, m.l.s. or graphite, timing chain recommendations?? A rep at Texas-Speed recommended using a 7.400" pushrod with the unmilled LS6 heads is this right? I know it is a lot and I thank you for reading, please do not hesitate to respond, any input is very much appreciated. Thanks in advance!!

 

hello fellow minnesOtan a good local club is the mn fbody. as for your car ive heard that blown cars do better with lower compression so you might want to ask TSP about good heads with maybe larger chambers. timing chain LS2 for about $30 bucks!, texas speed was good to deal with on heads & parts. they could have done better on my mail order tune (hav it done local) DRM buffalo MN, did mine, TPIS chaska, hi tech anoka. (good but higher priced) good luck, just my 2 cents

 

Thanks for the input, why the Ls2 chain, and do you get an aftermarket or O.E.

 

Well I'll tell you a little about my swap and hopefully that will help you alot or atleast settle some dust that was lingering. My mentality is that if you're going down into the motor that far with a H/C swap then I normally would do the following things to make sure you're not going to be going back in it for awhile:

Ported Oil pump is a nice thing to change out, but you don't have to. I would recommend it though.
Timing Chain and/or Timing Set is a must, you'll be thankful when you see your new upgrade.
*** Take your time doing all these swaps and enjoy it man. Its going to frustrate you but in the long hall you'll love everything that you have accomplished.
I replaced lifters b/c I wanted NEW lifters on a NEW cam.
Dropping the oil pan is going to be a pain in the rear but I broke the motor mounts and used a jack to reach the rear bolts.

My setup is in my sig. I produced 427rwhp and I still had a VERY RESTRICITVE exhaust. Recommend: Dynomax or 10 series Flowmaster.
I could have probably of gained 20rwhp if the car would have breathed a little better. That or I am looking for electric cutouts.

 

Thanks for the input, I will definitely be getting a new chain in gears due to your response, does anyone have any input on the cam selection and how it will work in a boosted application?

 

I'm not up on forced induction cam selection so I'll limit my comments to the other stuff.

For first heads & cam, I felt like a new ported oil pump was worth while for my car. Likewise, on the timing set. Comp Cams has one that looks pretty nice. A new crank bolt & head bolts are also a must IMO. Underdrive pulley or damper might be nice too. Not sure how that will fit with your FI plans.

Good Luck.

 

if you are thinking about a d1 then build the car to prepare for it. no point in doing **** twice. the h/c set up u r looking at doesnt really scream boost ready. if budget is on the mind look at a lingenfelter gt2-3 cam and a set of 6.0 lq9 heads. u prob wont pick up much now as compared to the other set up as u will be loosing compression and the cam isnt anything big but it will really complement it come time for the blower. depending on the cam u use check the base circle. most comp cams run a little smaller and will require a slightly longer pushrod. best way is to measure it once its together then order the pushrods. a stock oil pump is fine-if u want to go ported u can but u dont really need it. and depending on how much u plan to beat this motor an ls2 timing chain is suficient also. plus u can use the stock gears if they are in good shape. head gasket will again depend on the boost u wish to run. cometic makes several diff thickness' . if the motor is coming out for sure when u put the d1 on use a .040 now and then swap to a .060 when the motor gets pulled for the blower. otherwise id use a stock gasket and keep the boost at a reasonable pressure. u may also want to consider head studs (not bolts) when going to a fi set up.

 

everything sounds pretty good but get the cam114+4 or higher, superchargers like smoother idle cam(performs better) IMO

 

I am gonna disagree with Mr LS2 bait a bit. I myself would rather see you get into a set of aftermarket castings with the thicker head deck and defentially do head studs. Not saying you 100% have to have aftermarket castings but I like piece of mind, and that fact that you know your gonna advoid lifting the gaskets.
Either way the LS6 head will work fine, it will be a better option then the LQ9 for now and then you can drop compression in the future by choosing the correct pistons.
Also why worry about cam specs for a F/I car now?
Do a NA cam now and change it when you redue the whole motor. Its only an additional 200 or so dollars as you can sell your NA cam for 200 and buy a new one for 400 at that time. So you get the benifit of the better NA power for now and can pick the right cam for the setup once you go FI.
Give us a call if you would like to talk more about this package and I will do my best to guide you in the right direction.
Thanks
Jeremy

 

listen tool bag who the f do u think u r! haha j/k id rather see them used an aftermarket casting also like an etp but hes obviously looking at gm casting heads now which leads me to believe at this current point in time hes on a budget. but u make a valid point on the cam. its not hard to sell a cam on this board if its not screwed up. and at the point of building a whole new motor whats 300 bucks really?