Valve spring swap help
Valve spring swap help I just installed my cam today, and i just started doing the valve spring swap tonight. I'm using a leakdown tester to hold the valves up. My air compressor doesnt have that great of a regulator on it, and i think that might be part of my problem...but lets hear your opinions
when i apply air into the cylinder, i hear hair in the crankcase. The car has near perfect compression, and never had a cylinder leak issue. once i start using the crane tool to push the spring down, i can hear a big rush of air, so i know im just opening a valve and the air isnt holding them up
what do you guys think?
when i apply air into the cylinder, i hear hair in the crankcase. The car has near perfect compression, and never had a cylinder leak issue. once i start using the crane tool to push the spring down, i can hear a big rush of air, so i know im just opening a valve and the air isnt holding them up
what do you guys think?
i put 120psi to my cylinders, no problems also is it possible that u might be pushing the vale open when you are trying to coompress the spring? i had to 'tap' my retainers with a small socket slightly bigger than the valve stem and locks to free it up
that is what i was thinking...that the locks might be stuck and just pushing the valve open...but htat still doesnt explain my air noise i hear? Its not coming out of my exhaust or intake, and i dont feel any coming out of the front of the block.
well i had air leaking all over the place lol since i made my own little conncetion, dont be afraid of some leakage i dont imagin it takes much to hold the valves up, or just use the tdc method i used air on the drivers side but tdc on the passenger side b/c i couldnt fit my connection
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I had good luck w air. I used like 100 psi I think and also had to tap the retainer to break 'em loose. I had air leaking by the rings too, and I got over 200 psi compression but it's not a problem, Just leaking down.
ok thanks guys!...im gonna try a few with air, but ill make sure they cylinder is close to tdc just incase it feels like being a bastard and dropping....because my wallet would kick my *** if i had to pull the heads 
You can use the TDC method with the compressed air. Once #1 is at TDC you can do 2 cylinder then rotate the crank 90 degrees and do 2 more then repeat. Don't use anything near 120 psi. That's enough to spin the crank if the piston is exactly at TDC especially if the spark plugs are removed. The crane tool is the best. It removes/installs 2 springs at a time. It's a time saver.
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Joined: May 2006
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From: Vegas
I used 80-90 Psi and it held fine, make sure you have a good o-ring on your leak down tool(hearing air is normal) I also use the TDC method 1 & 6, 8 & 5, 7 & 4 and 3 & 2 using a straw as a feeler. I tied a strap to a breaker bar and had it attached to the crank bolt to keep the piston from pushing down. Good Luck -Dave
