1st time flycutting. Any tips?
1st time flycutting. Any tips? Alright I was reading the directions and they seem pretty easy. But since this is my first time I would like to hear all the tips so I know what I'm looking and expecting. Thanks
Joe
Joe
Unlike the above suggestion, I found it easiest to start the cut by turning the cutter counterclockwise.
Since you're hitting the piston at an angle, I found the cutter would bind up really tight when first starting the cut, the cutter just wants to dig in and grab. Once you get a few turns on it and get the path made, it goes pretty easy and smoothly.
As I learned after the first few cuts, I found by running the cutter backwards the first few turns, it would lightly start cutting the path in the piston without binding...then I'd continue cutting normally (clockwise) with much less effort.
My other piece of advice is take your time, do the first piston by hand, just to get a feel of how it cuts, and how quickly the material is removed. It really doesn't take long to cut a .100" deep notch.
I used an air ratchet to spin the cutter, as it's slow rpm and torque limiting are both desirable features compared to using a drill. These cutters were designed to be turned by hand, not high speed drills.
Since you're hitting the piston at an angle, I found the cutter would bind up really tight when first starting the cut, the cutter just wants to dig in and grab. Once you get a few turns on it and get the path made, it goes pretty easy and smoothly.
As I learned after the first few cuts, I found by running the cutter backwards the first few turns, it would lightly start cutting the path in the piston without binding...then I'd continue cutting normally (clockwise) with much less effort.
My other piece of advice is take your time, do the first piston by hand, just to get a feel of how it cuts, and how quickly the material is removed. It really doesn't take long to cut a .100" deep notch.
I used an air ratchet to spin the cutter, as it's slow rpm and torque limiting are both desirable features compared to using a drill. These cutters were designed to be turned by hand, not high speed drills.
The tooth pattern on the Isky tool is symmetrical... it cuts the same forward as backward. How could counterclockwise do that for you? Oh I got it. You HAVE to have used a different brand. Otherwise that would make no sense whatsoever. What brand did you use? I'd like to check it out.
The only difference in directions on the Isky tool is the head is threaded, and can unscrew. I would loc-Tite it.
The only difference in directions on the Isky tool is the head is threaded, and can unscrew. I would loc-Tite it.
Yes I used the Isky tools, and yes, I know the cutter is threaded on.
The cutter may look symmetrical, but like most any other cutting tool, ie: drill bit, endmill, etc, the teeth are only designed to cut in one direction.
The Isky cutter does not cut aggressively when spun backwards, but does when spun clockwise...so there is most definitely a difference.
My advice is certainly not the best for sharpness longevity, it's no different than running a drill bit backwards...it'll leave a mark on the surface, but won't really cut it. But, it's what worked for me. I used brand new cutters too, which may be also why I'm the only one who ever commented on this issue of binding during the initial cut. I guess the rental tools that have been used dozens of times may be worn in enough to not exhibit that behavior, I dunno, just a guess.
The cutter may look symmetrical, but like most any other cutting tool, ie: drill bit, endmill, etc, the teeth are only designed to cut in one direction.
The Isky cutter does not cut aggressively when spun backwards, but does when spun clockwise...so there is most definitely a difference.
My advice is certainly not the best for sharpness longevity, it's no different than running a drill bit backwards...it'll leave a mark on the surface, but won't really cut it. But, it's what worked for me. I used brand new cutters too, which may be also why I'm the only one who ever commented on this issue of binding during the initial cut. I guess the rental tools that have been used dozens of times may be worn in enough to not exhibit that behavior, I dunno, just a guess.
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They're brand new cutters. The cutters that I rented snapp into place like snapping a socket to a racthet. I think I'll start by hand and use a racthet and start slow. I don't have any air tools. For your first times how long did it take you guys to cut all the pistons?
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Originally Posted by Thimble
Yes I used the Isky tools, and yes, I know the cutter is threaded on.
The cutter may look symmetrical, but like most any other cutting tool, ie: drill bit, endmill, etc, the teeth are only designed to cut in one direction.
The Isky cutter does not cut aggressively when spun backwards, but does when spun clockwise...so there is most definitely a difference.
My advice is certainly not the best for sharpness longevity, it's no different than running a drill bit backwards...it'll leave a mark on the surface, but won't really cut it. But, it's what worked for me. I used brand new cutters too, which may be also why I'm the only one who ever commented on this issue of binding during the initial cut. I guess the rental tools that have been used dozens of times may be worn in enough to not exhibit that behavior, I dunno, just a guess.
The cutter may look symmetrical, but like most any other cutting tool, ie: drill bit, endmill, etc, the teeth are only designed to cut in one direction.
The Isky cutter does not cut aggressively when spun backwards, but does when spun clockwise...so there is most definitely a difference.
My advice is certainly not the best for sharpness longevity, it's no different than running a drill bit backwards...it'll leave a mark on the surface, but won't really cut it. But, it's what worked for me. I used brand new cutters too, which may be also why I'm the only one who ever commented on this issue of binding during the initial cut. I guess the rental tools that have been used dozens of times may be worn in enough to not exhibit that behavior, I dunno, just a guess.
As for being careful, that's fine. I didn't have the problem of it digging in. Mostly because we only removed .070" off each piston, so it was easily accomplished with minimum force on the soft hypereutectic aluminum. Just be careful as Thimble says, and it's really self-explanatory once you start.
And no reason to rent the tool. If you have an old head, just use it and buy the tool.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-internal-engine/709183-how-flycut-pistons.html
theres a thread about it if u didnt see it
theres a thread about it if u didnt see it