Short and sweet.. I installed a cam, not a big cam, but on a 112lsa so you can picture that it has a lope to it. Cold starts are fine, hot starts are a bitch. Takes me like two or three revs to get it to catch idle or it dies. Once it catches it is fine. Secondly, low RPM clutch engagement does the same thing. Driving in traffic sucks. If this is normal than "fine" I will get use to it, but I have been in traffic at the track and I hear M6 cars cammin' more than mine do fine with their RPM levels. I have factory set idle, only thing I can think of is new install and PCM has to idle re-learn, but how long(miles) does this take? Also plugs are gapped at around .38 for the juice. I have read about people having idle issues with smaller gapped plugs. Am I looking in the right direction? any pointers?

 

what are the specks on the cam? Have you done "any" tuning?

 

Hotcam...No tuning

 

Its normal until u get some tuning. U might have to 2 step it while driving, to keep it from dying out...

 

Drill the hole in the TB blade slighty larger. you want to get your IAC counts down to about 30. You can monitor this with A-tap, the bigger the hole th lower the counts will be. I needed 1/4" hole to get my TR230 to stop surging. also make sure to monitor it while the car is fully warmed up at idle.

Justin

 

For initial startup idle issue you need LS1Edit:
Scale the Main Volumetric Efficiency by 60% and it will start fine. It worked great for me and about 5 other people I suggested it to. (MAF not used during initial startup, first 15-30 seconds....)

As for raising the idle, or helping th IAC counts, I would just turn the idle screw. I did that also, and it worked fine. I don't see a reason to drill your TB on an M6 car. Maybe on an A4, drilling may be better, but why not adjust the idle screw on an M6, you can always turn it back!

Good luck and enjoy the new cam!

Tommy

 

Becasue turning the idle set screw will raise your idle speed, drilling the hole larger just reduces the surge.

Justin

 

Thanks for info....