Camshaft Installation..help.
Camshaft Installation..help. I am doing a camshaft (amongst other things such as LS6 heads, headers, etc etc) installation on my 99 TA in my garage at home. I am currently located in NE Ohio in a town named Port Washington (zip code 43837)..it is near towns such as Canton, Cambridge, New Philadelphia, Dover..anyways..I have stripped everything down to the timing cover and I MAY be in the need of having someone that has done a cam swap in their LS1 come and help me. I supposedly may have someone that has done it, but to me it sounds like hearsay from a friend of mine and I dont think he'll come through.
so all I am looking for is an hour or two of pulling that timing cover off and cam gear, taking the cam out, sliding the new one in (its a F13), putting the timing chain on (its a double roller)...and I will do the rest myself..of course, I will pay anyone that can help me...please PM me if you are interested, as I will let you know any information you may need including when I may need your help (it will be a weekend day)! Once again, I have everything set to go so all I need help with is sliding a cam out, sliding one in, and help with the timing to make sure everything is cool! Thanks for any help you guys can give me!
so all I am looking for is an hour or two of pulling that timing cover off and cam gear, taking the cam out, sliding the new one in (its a F13), putting the timing chain on (its a double roller)...and I will do the rest myself..of course, I will pay anyone that can help me...please PM me if you are interested, as I will let you know any information you may need including when I may need your help (it will be a weekend day)! Once again, I have everything set to go so all I need help with is sliding a cam out, sliding one in, and help with the timing to make sure everything is cool! Thanks for any help you guys can give me!
Dude that part is the easiest part of doing a head swap, no joke. My timing cover was off all of 15 minutes to do the oil pump, cam, and new chain. I was a little worried that I did something wrong, because it was so easy and took such little time. Go to www.ls1howto.com and read the write-ups. They have one for an f-body head swap, and go in depth in this specific part. Read it and know what you're doing when you dive into the timing cover, and don't go on to the next step until you are 100% certain you know you did the last step right.
Trust me, the cam part is REALLY easy with the heads off.
Trust me, the cam part is REALLY easy with the heads off.
Yes i've read that write up, and that write up is great as it has helped guide me a good deal thus far. I just feel a bit worried about installing the cam as I kinda just feel comfortable doing bolt on parts like heads, intake, headers....stuff like this...i've never worked on putting a cam in and I don't wanna screw my own beast up lol.
The cam is simple, the gear can only go on the cam one way. Get that gear on, and the crank gear on. Then you just spin the cam until the dots on the cam gear match up with the dots on the crank gear....that's it.
Originally Posted by bowe1632
Yes i've read that write up, and that write up is great as it has helped guide me a good deal thus far. I just feel a bit worried about installing the cam as I kinda just feel comfortable doing bolt on parts like heads, intake, headers....stuff like this...i've never worked on putting a cam in and I don't wanna screw my own beast up lol.
unbolt cam gear
unbolt cam retainer
pull out cam, do it VERY slowly and gently.
then put it all back together. If you have a non adjustable chain there is no way you can do it wrong because if it's off by 1 tooth, it will be obvious.
Seriously like 3.4Camaro said...it's very easy. I did mine this weekend almost entirely by myself.
you won't have any problem.
when you first startup your car after a cam, does the car wanto run lean or rich? My car runs horrible after the LT install because its too lean, and maybe its because i cant tune out the EGR (yet). It backfires and sputteres at low rpm when theres a load on it (like overdrive going from 50-70) What can i expect after i put this cam in. tsp 233/239. And the dyno tuner shop is 9 miles away, is something bad gunna happen?
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dragkid i wish i could tell you, my futral cam is taking forever to get to my house and its backed up my install...have u tried it at higher rpms in park or neutral? does it sputter and cut out then?
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Originally Posted by bowe1632
ceissus have you fired yours back up yet or are u still putting it back together? my timing chain is adjustable is there any ideas in that case
i should be firing it up tonight.
as far as the ADJ. timing chain, i've never used one. I'm not really sure how they work or if you can just lock it in place at 0degrees advance?
Once you get the cover off be sure to set the dots on the cam and crank sprockets EXACTLY at "DOT to DOT"(6 o'clock and 12 o'clock). At this point do NOT turn the crank until after you have the new cam installed and the chain and cam sprocket are in place. Be sure you have the crank sprocket dot EXACTLY at 12 o'clock(this implies the cam sprocket is at 6 o'clock) before you unbolt the cam chain wheel. If it is even slightly off(a few degrees) it makes getting the chain and cam sprocket back on with the dots at the DOD to DOT relationship nearly impossible. This condition is exacerbated if you are installing a double row timing set(which you probably are not). This may not be as big of a problem when reusing the OEM set(single row), but if you are using a double chain it's critical.
You sound like your ready to wimp out. Why don't you just forget the whole thing or get out the checkbook and pay someone to do the job for you. This isn't a difficult job if you have basic mechanical skills and the right tools for the job. You can always use LS1Tech.com as your backup. Quit crying and pick up a wrench.
that was flat ridiculous son...sorry for trying to pick up some info on this cam swap before just throwing some **** together. i've done all of my work myself..next time you get a brilliant idea to chime in, think again...LS1tech.com is a great resource thanks in part that there are few ppl like you out there and more decent ppl that just like to help out.
Just a little heads up to you, you may run into a problem with the double roller hitting on the oil pump. I had a rollmaster and melling oil pump that I was putting on and I had to sell that double and I got a Cloyes hexajust.
Also when you pull of the balancer, flip the 3 jaw puller around compared to the pictured one on ls1howto.com I broke two of them trying to get it off the way its pictured. Putting the balacer back on, throw it in the over for about 25 minutes at 350, beat the bitch on enough to get your crank bolt in a few threads and follow the torqueing instructions. Also CLEAN the **** out of the bolt holes. Thats pretty much the stuff that I ran into a problem with my swap. I'm getting mine tuned next friday.
Also when you pull of the balancer, flip the 3 jaw puller around compared to the pictured one on ls1howto.com I broke two of them trying to get it off the way its pictured. Putting the balacer back on, throw it in the over for about 25 minutes at 350, beat the bitch on enough to get your crank bolt in a few threads and follow the torqueing instructions. Also CLEAN the **** out of the bolt holes. Thats pretty much the stuff that I ran into a problem with my swap. I'm getting mine tuned next friday.
Originally Posted by 98Camarod
Just a little heads up to you, you may run into a problem with the double roller hitting on the oil pump. I had a rollmaster and melling oil pump that I was putting on and I had to sell that double and I got a Cloyes hexajust.
Also when you pull of the balancer, flip the 3 jaw puller around compared to the pictured one on ls1howto.com I broke two of them trying to get it off the way its pictured. Putting the balacer back on, throw it in the over for about 25 minutes at 350, beat the bitch on enough to get your crank bolt in a few threads and follow the torqueing instructions. Also CLEAN the **** out of the bolt holes. Thats pretty much the stuff that I ran into a problem with my swap. I'm getting mine tuned next friday.
Also when you pull of the balancer, flip the 3 jaw puller around compared to the pictured one on ls1howto.com I broke two of them trying to get it off the way its pictured. Putting the balacer back on, throw it in the over for about 25 minutes at 350, beat the bitch on enough to get your crank bolt in a few threads and follow the torqueing instructions. Also CLEAN the **** out of the bolt holes. Thats pretty much the stuff that I ran into a problem with my swap. I'm getting mine tuned next friday.
i literally put bolt through the balancer, threaded it in, tapped the balancer by hand, and just used the bolt the pull the balancer on the entire rest of the way.
