Least expensive way to gain 35 more rwhp?
See my sig for mods, I'm happy with the cam but I want 400 RWHP and some more Torque under the curve.
Which way should I go ... a new cam, new heads or p&P my 243 heads( any referrals)?
Least expensive way.
I have PRC Duals, Titatium Retainers and chrome moly push rods.
Which way should I go ... a new cam, new heads or p&P my 243 heads( any referrals)?
Least expensive way.
I have PRC Duals, Titatium Retainers and chrome moly push rods.
you could maybe pick u a set of already ported and polished heads, then sell the 243's you'll get some of that back... probably be the cheapest way unless your going to change the cam yourself...
If you just want 30-35 more horses say no to spray. Even though it's the best bang-for-buck you'll be paying for nitrous, nitrous bottles, nitrous accessories and upgraded fuel systems for 100-150 horses.
Since you have the valvetrain to support a bigger cam, I suggest putting in a G5X3. Usually re-tunes are cheaper than the first initial tunes so that's another plus.
Since you have the valvetrain to support a bigger cam, I suggest putting in a G5X3. Usually re-tunes are cheaper than the first initial tunes so that's another plus.
Originally Posted by GuitsBoy
Stock valved 243 heads should gain you 30-35 or more for around a grand.
The last mod session I:
1 changed the stock LS1 cam for the Cheatr
2 replaced the intake with one from the LS6
3 replaced my 853's with 243's (I installed PRC duals, titanium retainers and chrome moily push rods)
4. 4.10 rear
All I gained was 35rwhp and 11 rwtq.
I did the cam and heads myself not sure which is more work the cam or the heads. They both seemed the same, that harmonic balancer bolt removal was a B*tch though.
I guess I can get a good tuner to just change the cam and retune/dyno for around $1200? I'm not looking to change the cam myself again, my wife would really think i"m insane since I just did it a few months ago!
you can go with a bigger cam, your setup well for one, but that will also change the driveability, not sure if thats an issue. upgrading the heads could net some more power without sacrificing as much drivability i would think. i have not changed either in my car, hence why i end it with "i would think"
j/w ... what does "B&M Racing Air Induction" stand for?
j/w ... what does "B&M Racing Air Induction" stand for?
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Bigger cam's drivability is all in the tune. Heads would need to flow like motherf*ckers to gain 35 horses and that means mucho dinero. Switching cams is the way to go!
If I were your wife, I would think you would be crazier if you chose to pay to have a cam installed if you could do it yourself.
If I were your wife, I would think you would be crazier if you chose to pay to have a cam installed if you could do it yourself.
Originally Posted by cam1999
I have the stock valve 243's, new LS6 heads!
All I gained was 35rwhp and 11 rwtq.
All I gained was 35rwhp and 11 rwtq.
I meant ported LS6 heads, yet retaining stock valves. Those should see 30+ HP gains pretty easily.
I shoudl have paid closer attention to your mods. Youll need to step up to a larger cam. At least a mid 23x size with a tighter lsa. And youll absolutely need to port those LS6 heads. But still, 35 should be easily doable.
35 RWHP and 11rwtq gain seems low IMO for the mods you had done, but the 4.10 will have a negative affect on the dyno
maybe 10 rwhp
The cam alone with a tune should have got you 30+ rwhp.
maybe the tune is off ?
maybe 10 rwhp
The cam alone with a tune should have got you 30+ rwhp.
maybe the tune is off ?
Originally Posted by 98_Formula
you can go with a bigger cam, your setup well for one, but that will also change the driveability, not sure if thats an issue. upgrading the heads could net some more power without sacrificing as much drivability i would think. i have not changed either in my car, hence why i end it with "i would think"
j/w ... what does "B&M Racing Air Induction" stand for?
j/w ... what does "B&M Racing Air Induction" stand for?
Originally Posted by cam1999
I have the stock valve 243's, new LS6 heads!
The last mod session I:
1 changed the stock LS1 cam for the Cheatr
2 replaced the intake with one from the LS6
3 replaced my 853's with 243's (I installed PRC duals, titanium retainers and chrome moily push rods)
4. 4.10 rear
All I gained was 35rwhp and 11 rwtq.
I did the cam and heads myself not sure which is more work the cam or the heads. They both seemed the same, that harmonic balancer bolt removal was a B*tch though.
I guess I can get a good tuner to just change the cam and retune/dyno for around $1200? I'm not looking to change the cam myself again, my wife would really think i"m insane since I just did it a few months ago!
The last mod session I:
1 changed the stock LS1 cam for the Cheatr
2 replaced the intake with one from the LS6
3 replaced my 853's with 243's (I installed PRC duals, titanium retainers and chrome moily push rods)
4. 4.10 rear
All I gained was 35rwhp and 11 rwtq.
I did the cam and heads myself not sure which is more work the cam or the heads. They both seemed the same, that harmonic balancer bolt removal was a B*tch though.
I guess I can get a good tuner to just change the cam and retune/dyno for around $1200? I'm not looking to change the cam myself again, my wife would really think i"m insane since I just did it a few months ago!
The other thing may be that you just don't have a good tune.
If you donb't want to try either of those then I'd definately go the cam route, but seriously people with your mods and just a TR224 are making the kind of power your looking for, which is why I think your headers may actually be hurting that CheaTR cam. As Patrick G, he'll know if long tubes will rob power from the CheaTR or not, I'm just guessing here.
The CheaTR will work well with stock manifolds, but headers are not going to cause less over stock manifolds.
look at stock cam car with headers..there is always a gain there.
There is something else going on as a cam only setup in most cases makes more power.
look at stock cam car with headers..there is always a gain there.
There is something else going on as a cam only setup in most cases makes more power.
Originally Posted by LS1 SPEED
The CheaTR will work well with stock manifolds, but headers are not going to cause less over stock manifolds.
look at stock cam car with headers..there is always a gain there.
There is something else going on as a cam only setup in most cases makes more power.
look at stock cam car with headers..there is always a gain there.
There is something else going on as a cam only setup in most cases makes more power.

