Changing the oil pump and timing chain ...need help !!!
Changing the oil pump and timing chain ...need help !!! I have a 2000 ws6 and I am installing a cam next week. I have an Ls2 timing chain and an Ls6 ported oil pump that I myself am going to install to save some money....What all do I need to change the it? Is it hard to change? I need some help !
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From: Miami, Fl. - Hurricane Highway
The timing chain is easy, and the hardest part about the oil pump is putting back the oil pump pick up tube. Just make sure you stick a rag in the opening of your oil pan, incase you drop the bolt while trying ot put it on. LS1howto is what i used while doing my cam swap, its very informative.
-Joel
**Also remember that when you go to lower the oil pan, there are 2 horizontal bolts that go through the transmission into the rear of the oil pan.**
Heres a link to my thread, about a few things i noticed during my install:
My MS3 Install
-Joel
**Also remember that when you go to lower the oil pan, there are 2 horizontal bolts that go through the transmission into the rear of the oil pan.**
Heres a link to my thread, about a few things i noticed during my install:
My MS3 Install
You have to pull the radiator assembly out to give you room to pull the cam out. If you are not changing the cam then you could get away with leaving it in. I would say that if you are that far into the front of the motor than replace the cam..... My 2 cents............ 
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From: Miami, Fl. - Hurricane Highway
^ I agree with him, your better off changing the cam as well. You got to take off everything like your going to do now anyways so you might as well. You gotta take out the radiator, and move the A/C condensor out of the way. Also when you take the radiator out, hose down the grill lightly and look at all the **** you spray out of it.
-Joel
-Joel
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make sure you dont pinch the o-ring when putting the pick-up tube back on! A good trick i used for getting the pick up bolt back in was i put the bolt in a closed end gear wrench and started threading it back in with some needle nose pliers. Then just finished it up with the wrench. I also tied some fishing line around the bolt, just as an extra pre-caution to prevent it from dropping down into the pan.
I must say, it is a shame the cam is not coming out as well after all of that work!!
If you aren't swapping the cam, I do not see the need to COMPLETELY remove the radiator, but the efans on the rad may get in the way. I would remove it just to make life easier, but you dont have to.
Get the pulley off, h20 pump off, cover off, lower the pan by loosening the pan bolts plus two horizontal bolts near the tranny. CAREFULLY back the small bolt out that holds the oil pick up tube (and put a rag down in the pan so if you drop it you won't lose it), then remove the pick up tube. Pump slides off....remove stock chain. Make sure all components are clean, and ready to be installed.
Wrap the new chain around the gear teeth on the crank and set aside. Line up the new pump with the snout of the crank and do not force it, just work it until it wants to go on properly. At the same time, line up the pick up tube and the pump housing being careful NOT TO PINCH THE O RING (a dab of oil on the blue or black ring helps it to fit snug into the pump housing)! Once everything is happy, insert bolt with a tad of locktite, and tighten it (snug is fine).
Make sure cam sprocket dot and crank dot are lined up, place new chain around cam sprocket, retorque, and you're good to go.
Spin the motor a few times with a breaker bar and socket and make sure everything is lined up. Throw cover back on after pan is retightened. Reinstall the pulley THE RIGHT WAY (with a threaded rod and washer/nut tool)...I stay away from longer bolts "pulling" the pulley back on! The rest is cake. Hope this helps!
Erik
MASPORT
If you aren't swapping the cam, I do not see the need to COMPLETELY remove the radiator, but the efans on the rad may get in the way. I would remove it just to make life easier, but you dont have to.
Get the pulley off, h20 pump off, cover off, lower the pan by loosening the pan bolts plus two horizontal bolts near the tranny. CAREFULLY back the small bolt out that holds the oil pick up tube (and put a rag down in the pan so if you drop it you won't lose it), then remove the pick up tube. Pump slides off....remove stock chain. Make sure all components are clean, and ready to be installed.
Wrap the new chain around the gear teeth on the crank and set aside. Line up the new pump with the snout of the crank and do not force it, just work it until it wants to go on properly. At the same time, line up the pick up tube and the pump housing being careful NOT TO PINCH THE O RING (a dab of oil on the blue or black ring helps it to fit snug into the pump housing)! Once everything is happy, insert bolt with a tad of locktite, and tighten it (snug is fine).
Make sure cam sprocket dot and crank dot are lined up, place new chain around cam sprocket, retorque, and you're good to go.
Spin the motor a few times with a breaker bar and socket and make sure everything is lined up. Throw cover back on after pan is retightened. Reinstall the pulley THE RIGHT WAY (with a threaded rod and washer/nut tool)...I stay away from longer bolts "pulling" the pulley back on! The rest is cake. Hope this helps!
Erik
MASPORT
