Crank bolt broke on removal now what?
09-17-2007, 01:04 PM
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Originally Posted by ABQ99TA
If I need to pull the motor is there somewere I can find directions for this?
I made a post listing everything you need to disconnect to drop the k-member. Its a pretty simple process
09-17-2007, 02:19 PM
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Originally Posted by nesikachad
I'm a machinist and have pulled a sheared bolt or two.
First, I'd get a bottle of Kroil and a hot air gun.
Next, get yourself a center drill Probably a #1 from a machine tool supply center. Don't buy carbide, get High speed steel.
Buy a set of transfer punches. They are cheap and have many other uses around a garage.
Use a transfer punch that has the closest matching OD to the bolt hole's ID.
Example: a typical 3/8-16 bolt hole has a minor dimension (the tap size) of 5/16ths.
You would use a 5/16th's transfer punch.
Now, tap the transfer punch while attempting to keep it pointing right down the center of the crank snout.
It will leave a center mark for your center drill.
Chuck up your center drill and start your hole. You may want to use a bit of oil on the drill to control chips and (more importantly) to lubricate the cutting surfaces of the tool.
Don't spin your drill at a gazillion Rpm. You'll only burn up the tool. Use moderate pressure and rpm and allow the tool to do the work. Don't rush or force it. Drills are typically in the upper 60's on the rockwell C scale. You'll have a hell of a time getting that material cleared out if you break the tool off inside the hole it's forming.
Ok, drill no more than about an 1/8th to 3/16ths deep. Just eye ball it.
Now, get the largest drill you can use with confidence that does not exceed the minor pitch diameter of the hole.
---Side note. I know the LS1/2 uses metric fasteners. You don't need a tap drill chart to find the minor hole diameter. Metric stuff is easy to figure in your head. It's major diameter minus the thread pitch. Here's an example.
6mm bolt with a .75 thread pitch. the bolt measures 6mm in diameter and the thread climbs .75mm per revolution. Subtract .75 from 6mm and you get what? 5.25 right?
You would not want to use a drill any larger than 5.25mm otherwise you'd permanently ruin the screw hole because you drilled out all the inside threads.
Measure the OD of your bolt with calipers (if you don't know the pitch already) and then multiply by 25.4 to get the metric equivelant)
Example:
.375 X 25.4 ='s 9.5mm
If the bolt has a pitch of .5 then subtract the .5 from 9.5. You'd not want to use a drill bigger than 9mm.
You'd be better down in the 6's or 7's. Much easier to drill bigger than it is to fill in a hole.
Now that you have your drill selected, start your hole. Again, make sure you don't run too much rpm and burn it up.
Periodically pull the drill out of the hole so that the chips have a chance to evacuate from the flutes. this is important because if they get jammed into the hole, the tool will break.
Lubricate the drill with oil also. While your at the machine tool supply shop, ask for a small bottle of moly based tapping/cutting fluid. Nasty smelling chit that works great for this sort of thing.
Hopefully you will be able to drill through the bolt and have a space behind it.
Once your are all the way through, squirt Kroil into the hole and then start on it with the hot air gun. Heat the crank evenly and get that Kroil smoking good.
then let it sit and allow the capilary action to draw it up into the threads.
Now, you can try and Easy out, but I have had better luck with good ol Torx bits from Sears. Just don't use a cheap tool because chances are it's not heat treated properly and is liable to break or twist off inside the hole. Craftsman stuff is decent enough quality for this chore.
Find one that is just a bit too large for the hole you drilled and then drive it in with a ball peen hammer. If you look at the face of the torx bit you'll notice it has a star shape. Use some common sense. the center portion that makes up the meat of the tool cannot be larger than the hole. It just won't fit. but the outer flutes will drive into the hole and provide the bite for the tool to latch onto the bolt.
Using a progressive and deliberate force attempt to remove the broken off fastener.
If it comes out, great.
If not, warm it up again and see if it works then.
If not, remove the torx bit and try the easy out. As a last resort you can try with a left handed tap and bolt with a spacer.
This is more risky because you risk shearing the smaller bolt inside the larger one. It'll stress the outside threads of the larger bolt even more and make it a bigger pain to remove. Do this only as a last resort.
I know this sounds a bit intimidating, but a little patience and a few bucks in good tooling will make this an easy task.
Buy split point drills and they won't walk all over the place on you. Drills come in two lengths. Stub length and Jobber. Always use the shortest tool possible for any machine operation. Short, Rigid tools don't wander or deflect nearly as much as long ones.
The hot air gun won't screw up your crank. a torch might. It'll take longer to heat up, but it won't hurt anything. Maybe put a wet rag around your front seal to avoid too much heat transfer to the rubber. That'd be my only concern.
I've removed a ton of broken off screws and bolts in my day using this practice. It works.
When you are done, get a tap that is the same size as the threaded hole in the crank and chase the threads. Blow the hole out or flush with brake cleaner afterwards so that you know there is no debris left in it.
A better tool might be to use a thread chaser. It'll form and reshape any goofed up threads rather than cut through them the way a tap will.
I hope this helps and gets you out of your bind.
Best of luck.
First, I'd get a bottle of Kroil and a hot air gun.
Next, get yourself a center drill Probably a #1 from a machine tool supply center. Don't buy carbide, get High speed steel.
Buy a set of transfer punches. They are cheap and have many other uses around a garage.
Use a transfer punch that has the closest matching OD to the bolt hole's ID.
Example: a typical 3/8-16 bolt hole has a minor dimension (the tap size) of 5/16ths.
You would use a 5/16th's transfer punch.
Now, tap the transfer punch while attempting to keep it pointing right down the center of the crank snout.
It will leave a center mark for your center drill.
Chuck up your center drill and start your hole. You may want to use a bit of oil on the drill to control chips and (more importantly) to lubricate the cutting surfaces of the tool.
Don't spin your drill at a gazillion Rpm. You'll only burn up the tool. Use moderate pressure and rpm and allow the tool to do the work. Don't rush or force it. Drills are typically in the upper 60's on the rockwell C scale. You'll have a hell of a time getting that material cleared out if you break the tool off inside the hole it's forming.
Ok, drill no more than about an 1/8th to 3/16ths deep. Just eye ball it.
Now, get the largest drill you can use with confidence that does not exceed the minor pitch diameter of the hole.
---Side note. I know the LS1/2 uses metric fasteners. You don't need a tap drill chart to find the minor hole diameter. Metric stuff is easy to figure in your head. It's major diameter minus the thread pitch. Here's an example.
6mm bolt with a .75 thread pitch. the bolt measures 6mm in diameter and the thread climbs .75mm per revolution. Subtract .75 from 6mm and you get what? 5.25 right?
You would not want to use a drill any larger than 5.25mm otherwise you'd permanently ruin the screw hole because you drilled out all the inside threads.
Measure the OD of your bolt with calipers (if you don't know the pitch already) and then multiply by 25.4 to get the metric equivelant)
Example:
.375 X 25.4 ='s 9.5mm
If the bolt has a pitch of .5 then subtract the .5 from 9.5. You'd not want to use a drill bigger than 9mm.
You'd be better down in the 6's or 7's. Much easier to drill bigger than it is to fill in a hole.
Now that you have your drill selected, start your hole. Again, make sure you don't run too much rpm and burn it up.
Periodically pull the drill out of the hole so that the chips have a chance to evacuate from the flutes. this is important because if they get jammed into the hole, the tool will break.
Lubricate the drill with oil also. While your at the machine tool supply shop, ask for a small bottle of moly based tapping/cutting fluid. Nasty smelling chit that works great for this sort of thing.
Hopefully you will be able to drill through the bolt and have a space behind it.
Once your are all the way through, squirt Kroil into the hole and then start on it with the hot air gun. Heat the crank evenly and get that Kroil smoking good.
then let it sit and allow the capilary action to draw it up into the threads.
Now, you can try and Easy out, but I have had better luck with good ol Torx bits from Sears. Just don't use a cheap tool because chances are it's not heat treated properly and is liable to break or twist off inside the hole. Craftsman stuff is decent enough quality for this chore.
Find one that is just a bit too large for the hole you drilled and then drive it in with a ball peen hammer. If you look at the face of the torx bit you'll notice it has a star shape. Use some common sense. the center portion that makes up the meat of the tool cannot be larger than the hole. It just won't fit. but the outer flutes will drive into the hole and provide the bite for the tool to latch onto the bolt.
Using a progressive and deliberate force attempt to remove the broken off fastener.
If it comes out, great.
If not, warm it up again and see if it works then.
If not, remove the torx bit and try the easy out. As a last resort you can try with a left handed tap and bolt with a spacer.
This is more risky because you risk shearing the smaller bolt inside the larger one. It'll stress the outside threads of the larger bolt even more and make it a bigger pain to remove. Do this only as a last resort.
I know this sounds a bit intimidating, but a little patience and a few bucks in good tooling will make this an easy task.
Buy split point drills and they won't walk all over the place on you. Drills come in two lengths. Stub length and Jobber. Always use the shortest tool possible for any machine operation. Short, Rigid tools don't wander or deflect nearly as much as long ones.
The hot air gun won't screw up your crank. a torch might. It'll take longer to heat up, but it won't hurt anything. Maybe put a wet rag around your front seal to avoid too much heat transfer to the rubber. That'd be my only concern.
I've removed a ton of broken off screws and bolts in my day using this practice. It works.
When you are done, get a tap that is the same size as the threaded hole in the crank and chase the threads. Blow the hole out or flush with brake cleaner afterwards so that you know there is no debris left in it.
A better tool might be to use a thread chaser. It'll form and reshape any goofed up threads rather than cut through them the way a tap will.
I hope this helps and gets you out of your bind.
Best of luck.
09-17-2007, 02:36 PM
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This should have its own STICKY
Good work
Good work
Originally Posted by nesikachad
I'm a machinist and have pulled a sheared bolt or two.
First, I'd get a bottle of Kroil and a hot air gun.
Next, get yourself a center drill Probably a #1 from a machine tool supply center. Don't buy carbide, get High speed steel.
Buy a set of transfer punches. They are cheap and have many other uses around a garage.
Use a transfer punch that has the closest matching OD to the bolt hole's ID.
Example: a typical 3/8-16 bolt hole has a minor dimension (the tap size) of 5/16ths.
You would use a 5/16th's transfer punch.
Now, tap the transfer punch while attempting to keep it pointing right down the center of the crank snout.
It will leave a center mark for your center drill.
Chuck up your center drill and start your hole. You may want to use a bit of oil on the drill to control chips and (more importantly) to lubricate the cutting surfaces of the tool.
Don't spin your drill at a gazillion Rpm. You'll only burn up the tool. Use moderate pressure and rpm and allow the tool to do the work. Don't rush or force it. Drills are typically in the upper 60's on the rockwell C scale. You'll have a hell of a time getting that material cleared out if you break the tool off inside the hole it's forming.
Ok, drill no more than about an 1/8th to 3/16ths deep. Just eye ball it.
Now, get the largest drill you can use with confidence that does not exceed the minor pitch diameter of the hole.
---Side note. I know the LS1/2 uses metric fasteners. You don't need a tap drill chart to find the minor hole diameter. Metric stuff is easy to figure in your head. It's major diameter minus the thread pitch. Here's an example.
6mm bolt with a .75 thread pitch. the bolt measures 6mm in diameter and the thread climbs .75mm per revolution. Subtract .75 from 6mm and you get what? 5.25 right?
You would not want to use a drill any larger than 5.25mm otherwise you'd permanently ruin the screw hole because you drilled out all the inside threads.
Measure the OD of your bolt with calipers (if you don't know the pitch already) and then multiply by 25.4 to get the metric equivelant)
Example:
.375 X 25.4 ='s 9.5mm
If the bolt has a pitch of .5 then subtract the .5 from 9.5. You'd not want to use a drill bigger than 9mm.
You'd be better down in the 6's or 7's. Much easier to drill bigger than it is to fill in a hole.
Now that you have your drill selected, start your hole. Again, make sure you don't run too much rpm and burn it up.
Periodically pull the drill out of the hole so that the chips have a chance to evacuate from the flutes. this is important because if they get jammed into the hole, the tool will break.
Lubricate the drill with oil also. While your at the machine tool supply shop, ask for a small bottle of moly based tapping/cutting fluid. Nasty smelling chit that works great for this sort of thing.
Hopefully you will be able to drill through the bolt and have a space behind it.
Once your are all the way through, squirt Kroil into the hole and then start on it with the hot air gun. Heat the crank evenly and get that Kroil smoking good.
then let it sit and allow the capilary action to draw it up into the threads.
Now, you can try and Easy out, but I have had better luck with good ol Torx bits from Sears. Just don't use a cheap tool because chances are it's not heat treated properly and is liable to break or twist off inside the hole. Craftsman stuff is decent enough quality for this chore.
Find one that is just a bit too large for the hole you drilled and then drive it in with a ball peen hammer. If you look at the face of the torx bit you'll notice it has a star shape. Use some common sense. the center portion that makes up the meat of the tool cannot be larger than the hole. It just won't fit. but the outer flutes will drive into the hole and provide the bite for the tool to latch onto the bolt.
Using a progressive and deliberate force attempt to remove the broken off fastener.
If it comes out, great.
If not, warm it up again and see if it works then.
If not, remove the torx bit and try the easy out. As a last resort you can try with a left handed tap and bolt with a spacer.
This is more risky because you risk shearing the smaller bolt inside the larger one. It'll stress the outside threads of the larger bolt even more and make it a bigger pain to remove. Do this only as a last resort.
I know this sounds a bit intimidating, but a little patience and a few bucks in good tooling will make this an easy task.
Buy split point drills and they won't walk all over the place on you. Drills come in two lengths. Stub length and Jobber. Always use the shortest tool possible for any machine operation. Short, Rigid tools don't wander or deflect nearly as much as long ones.
The hot air gun won't screw up your crank. a torch might. It'll take longer to heat up, but it won't hurt anything. Maybe put a wet rag around your front seal to avoid too much heat transfer to the rubber. That'd be my only concern.
I've removed a ton of broken off screws and bolts in my day using this practice. It works.
When you are done, get a tap that is the same size as the threaded hole in the crank and chase the threads. Blow the hole out or flush with brake cleaner afterwards so that you know there is no debris left in it.
A better tool might be to use a thread chaser. It'll form and reshape any goofed up threads rather than cut through them the way a tap will.
I hope this helps and gets you out of your bind.
Best of luck.
First, I'd get a bottle of Kroil and a hot air gun.
Next, get yourself a center drill Probably a #1 from a machine tool supply center. Don't buy carbide, get High speed steel.
Buy a set of transfer punches. They are cheap and have many other uses around a garage.
Use a transfer punch that has the closest matching OD to the bolt hole's ID.
Example: a typical 3/8-16 bolt hole has a minor dimension (the tap size) of 5/16ths.
You would use a 5/16th's transfer punch.
Now, tap the transfer punch while attempting to keep it pointing right down the center of the crank snout.
It will leave a center mark for your center drill.
Chuck up your center drill and start your hole. You may want to use a bit of oil on the drill to control chips and (more importantly) to lubricate the cutting surfaces of the tool.
Don't spin your drill at a gazillion Rpm. You'll only burn up the tool. Use moderate pressure and rpm and allow the tool to do the work. Don't rush or force it. Drills are typically in the upper 60's on the rockwell C scale. You'll have a hell of a time getting that material cleared out if you break the tool off inside the hole it's forming.
Ok, drill no more than about an 1/8th to 3/16ths deep. Just eye ball it.
Now, get the largest drill you can use with confidence that does not exceed the minor pitch diameter of the hole.
---Side note. I know the LS1/2 uses metric fasteners. You don't need a tap drill chart to find the minor hole diameter. Metric stuff is easy to figure in your head. It's major diameter minus the thread pitch. Here's an example.
6mm bolt with a .75 thread pitch. the bolt measures 6mm in diameter and the thread climbs .75mm per revolution. Subtract .75 from 6mm and you get what? 5.25 right?
You would not want to use a drill any larger than 5.25mm otherwise you'd permanently ruin the screw hole because you drilled out all the inside threads.
Measure the OD of your bolt with calipers (if you don't know the pitch already) and then multiply by 25.4 to get the metric equivelant)
Example:
.375 X 25.4 ='s 9.5mm
If the bolt has a pitch of .5 then subtract the .5 from 9.5. You'd not want to use a drill bigger than 9mm.
You'd be better down in the 6's or 7's. Much easier to drill bigger than it is to fill in a hole.
Now that you have your drill selected, start your hole. Again, make sure you don't run too much rpm and burn it up.
Periodically pull the drill out of the hole so that the chips have a chance to evacuate from the flutes. this is important because if they get jammed into the hole, the tool will break.
Lubricate the drill with oil also. While your at the machine tool supply shop, ask for a small bottle of moly based tapping/cutting fluid. Nasty smelling chit that works great for this sort of thing.
Hopefully you will be able to drill through the bolt and have a space behind it.
Once your are all the way through, squirt Kroil into the hole and then start on it with the hot air gun. Heat the crank evenly and get that Kroil smoking good.
then let it sit and allow the capilary action to draw it up into the threads.
Now, you can try and Easy out, but I have had better luck with good ol Torx bits from Sears. Just don't use a cheap tool because chances are it's not heat treated properly and is liable to break or twist off inside the hole. Craftsman stuff is decent enough quality for this chore.
Find one that is just a bit too large for the hole you drilled and then drive it in with a ball peen hammer. If you look at the face of the torx bit you'll notice it has a star shape. Use some common sense. the center portion that makes up the meat of the tool cannot be larger than the hole. It just won't fit. but the outer flutes will drive into the hole and provide the bite for the tool to latch onto the bolt.
Using a progressive and deliberate force attempt to remove the broken off fastener.
If it comes out, great.
If not, warm it up again and see if it works then.
If not, remove the torx bit and try the easy out. As a last resort you can try with a left handed tap and bolt with a spacer.
This is more risky because you risk shearing the smaller bolt inside the larger one. It'll stress the outside threads of the larger bolt even more and make it a bigger pain to remove. Do this only as a last resort.
I know this sounds a bit intimidating, but a little patience and a few bucks in good tooling will make this an easy task.
Buy split point drills and they won't walk all over the place on you. Drills come in two lengths. Stub length and Jobber. Always use the shortest tool possible for any machine operation. Short, Rigid tools don't wander or deflect nearly as much as long ones.
The hot air gun won't screw up your crank. a torch might. It'll take longer to heat up, but it won't hurt anything. Maybe put a wet rag around your front seal to avoid too much heat transfer to the rubber. That'd be my only concern.
I've removed a ton of broken off screws and bolts in my day using this practice. It works.
When you are done, get a tap that is the same size as the threaded hole in the crank and chase the threads. Blow the hole out or flush with brake cleaner afterwards so that you know there is no debris left in it.
A better tool might be to use a thread chaser. It'll form and reshape any goofed up threads rather than cut through them the way a tap will.
I hope this helps and gets you out of your bind.
Best of luck.
09-17-2007, 09:57 PM
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Originally Posted by 68chevypu
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=777311
I made a post listing everything you need to disconnect to drop the k-member. Its a pretty simple process
I made a post listing everything you need to disconnect to drop the k-member. Its a pretty simple process
09-17-2007, 09:59 PM
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Originally Posted by madclown
A very nice post indeed. That gives us a few new ideas. Were you able to squirt some lube into it before leaving town?
09-18-2007, 04:52 AM
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Guys,
Thanks for the kind words.
Experience is never cheap. Just remember that.
Regarding Helicoils.
Actually, Helicoils are usually a little stronger than the original threads believe it or not.
I know this sounds retarded, so hear me out.
Take a crankshaft. Probably around the mid 30's to low 40's on the Rockwell C scale. (Forged or Billet, not talking cast here)
Now, a Heli coil is a heat treated piece of piano wire ground/formed into the shape of a female thread. It is closer to upper 40's or maybe even low 50's on the Rockwell C scale.
If I have a 7/16ths bolt hole that is stripped out, in order for a heli coil to be inserted I'm going to have to enlarge the hole. I don't have it off the top of my head, but I'll guess that it'll be somewhere around a half inch. Maybe not quite that big.
So, I drill for a half inch, run my tap and then install the helicoil.
It's not the hardness of the wire so much. That certainly helps, but what we've actually done is increase the surface area of the threads in addition to raising the hardness. Hard metal is almost always stronger than soft metal.
That's what heat treating is all about.
The other dominant factor is that the thread is now all from one piece of material with a grain pattern flowing in the same direction.
Metal has grain just like wood. Which makes a stronger gun stock? Wood that naturally curves down through the grip, or wood that has an arrow straight grain? Obviously the curved one, straight just creates a shear plane through what is already the weakest point of any rifle stock.
the wire runs in one direction.
This is why companies like ARP FORM their threads instead of CUTTING them on bolts and studs. The material is stronger if it is pushed into shape instead of being cut like a tap or die would. Has to do with grain flow of material and the density of the material.
That's a whole other subject that will consume pages and hours of your time.
If you could walk up a thread like a flight of stairs with a tape measure you'd have the linear distance of that thread. Two things will increase this. A finer pitch that makes more rotations in a given distance, or increasing the diameter.
More surface area means more strength. Has too. 2X6 lumber is stronger than 2X4.
We know this.
So, as long as the Heli-coil is installed properly and as long as it reaches the entire depth of thread that the bolt sees, I say go for it and have no fear.
Finding a real deep hole heli-coil may be a challenge though. I don't think they make them like that.
Good luck and thanks again everyone.
Thanks for the kind words.
Experience is never cheap. Just remember that.
Regarding Helicoils.
Actually, Helicoils are usually a little stronger than the original threads believe it or not.
I know this sounds retarded, so hear me out.
Take a crankshaft. Probably around the mid 30's to low 40's on the Rockwell C scale. (Forged or Billet, not talking cast here)
Now, a Heli coil is a heat treated piece of piano wire ground/formed into the shape of a female thread. It is closer to upper 40's or maybe even low 50's on the Rockwell C scale.
If I have a 7/16ths bolt hole that is stripped out, in order for a heli coil to be inserted I'm going to have to enlarge the hole. I don't have it off the top of my head, but I'll guess that it'll be somewhere around a half inch. Maybe not quite that big.
So, I drill for a half inch, run my tap and then install the helicoil.
It's not the hardness of the wire so much. That certainly helps, but what we've actually done is increase the surface area of the threads in addition to raising the hardness. Hard metal is almost always stronger than soft metal.
That's what heat treating is all about.
The other dominant factor is that the thread is now all from one piece of material with a grain pattern flowing in the same direction.
Metal has grain just like wood. Which makes a stronger gun stock? Wood that naturally curves down through the grip, or wood that has an arrow straight grain? Obviously the curved one, straight just creates a shear plane through what is already the weakest point of any rifle stock.
the wire runs in one direction.
This is why companies like ARP FORM their threads instead of CUTTING them on bolts and studs. The material is stronger if it is pushed into shape instead of being cut like a tap or die would. Has to do with grain flow of material and the density of the material.
That's a whole other subject that will consume pages and hours of your time.
If you could walk up a thread like a flight of stairs with a tape measure you'd have the linear distance of that thread. Two things will increase this. A finer pitch that makes more rotations in a given distance, or increasing the diameter.
More surface area means more strength. Has too. 2X6 lumber is stronger than 2X4.
We know this.
So, as long as the Heli-coil is installed properly and as long as it reaches the entire depth of thread that the bolt sees, I say go for it and have no fear.
Finding a real deep hole heli-coil may be a challenge though. I don't think they make them like that.
Good luck and thanks again everyone.
09-18-2007, 06:17 AM
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WD 40 vs Kroil.
WD will work, but Kroil is much better.
Kroil is a combination of marvel mystery oil and some other "stuff"
The great thing about it is that it has tremendous capilary action. It draws into very small spaces.
One of the keys to removing anything that is pressed/galled/garfooned is the separation of dissimilar materials.
Bolt steel is different from crankshaft steel, etc. . .
Being a gunsmith, I've occassionally made the mistake of getting my thread pitches just a wee bit too close when fitting a stainless barrel to a stainless action. The surface contact in this joint is critical to the accuracy of the rifle.
When this happens, they can gall and usually the only way to remove the barrel is to cut it off and machine the threaded tennon out of the action.
$350 barrel down the toilet because it is now an inch too short.
Experience is never cheap. . .
I've actually been able to save barrels and the aggravation by squirting Kroil into the action and using the hot air gun trick.
Not always, but more often than not.
WD-40 just does not have this quality unfortunately.
Just something to consider. There is a difference.
WD will work, but Kroil is much better.
Kroil is a combination of marvel mystery oil and some other "stuff"
The great thing about it is that it has tremendous capilary action. It draws into very small spaces.
One of the keys to removing anything that is pressed/galled/garfooned is the separation of dissimilar materials.
Bolt steel is different from crankshaft steel, etc. . .
Being a gunsmith, I've occassionally made the mistake of getting my thread pitches just a wee bit too close when fitting a stainless barrel to a stainless action. The surface contact in this joint is critical to the accuracy of the rifle.
When this happens, they can gall and usually the only way to remove the barrel is to cut it off and machine the threaded tennon out of the action.
$350 barrel down the toilet because it is now an inch too short.
Experience is never cheap. . .
I've actually been able to save barrels and the aggravation by squirting Kroil into the action and using the hot air gun trick.
Not always, but more often than not.
WD-40 just does not have this quality unfortunately.
Just something to consider. There is a difference.
09-23-2007, 11:54 PM
#32
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Originally Posted by vettenuts
One other option if you can't get it out. Some have threaded the larger diameter at the end of the crank and put in a larger bolt leaving the broken one in place. Not sure if you have considered that option. Better than a crank replacement.
TIA guys...
09-24-2007, 05:33 AM
#33
If I remember correctly, there is a thread size that fits the larger opening and guys have tapped it and bought a new bolt. Don't remember the size, hopefully you can find it with search. If not, measure the inside diameter of the opening and use that as the inside thread minor diameter, you should be able to figure it out from there. Check for course and fine threads.
09-24-2007, 10:33 PM
#34
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Originally Posted by vettenuts
If I remember correctly, there is a thread size that fits the larger opening and guys have tapped it and bought a new bolt. Don't remember the size, hopefully you can find it with search. If not, measure the inside diameter of the opening and use that as the inside thread minor diameter, you should be able to figure it out from there. Check for course and fine threads.
10-01-2007, 02:48 PM
#35
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Well after alot of drilling and help from a friend the bolt is out!!!! Big thanks to madclown who brought over a hell of a good attitude and some chisles. After drilling it out to 31/64 there was just a little lip on the bottom of the bolt left. We started with a screwdriver but needed a chisel. We put a small chisal in the hole and started to hit the bottom of the bolt with it on a down angle, and the flattend it out in the same groove and once we had the ***** to rip it one the bolt collapsed. Then it was a matter of taking our tim getting it out. We then ran a tap through it afew times and the new bolt threaded in like new. The first thread or two got alittle messed up but after the tap they seemed fine. I finished the swap this morning and the car sound great! I can't wait to break it in and see what shes got. mrtosh good luck with yours if you are going to drill it out an heli coil it you may as well try this method on the way to drilling the whole thing. It did take some time and suck but it is done and I'm so happy. Thanks again to all that helped. Madclown if you read this I'm taking you and your lady out to dinner.
