STILL OVERHEATING! I FN give up!
09-20-2007, 03:53 PM
#21
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may sound stupid.. but have you tried changing the radiator cap? they go bad and then the coolant dosnt circulate like it should.. just a tip..maybe you should change it just to see 
09-20-2007, 03:55 PM
#22
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W/o reading through all the replies. AMERICAN_HP had this problem with his car. I think it was the stock radiator had a clog in it. Look on Corvette Forum for his posts.
09-20-2007, 03:56 PM
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^^he said he changed the rad cap
if those coolant crossover pipes dont have a good seal, air will get in, and no matter how much you try and bleed the system, air will get in...it takes 20 mins to take the intake off and check.. and if you have the ls6 setup you dont have to take off the intake bc your crossover pipe is only in the front and you can get to the bolts easy
if those coolant crossover pipes dont have a good seal, air will get in, and no matter how much you try and bleed the system, air will get in...it takes 20 mins to take the intake off and check.. and if you have the ls6 setup you dont have to take off the intake bc your crossover pipe is only in the front and you can get to the bolts easy
09-20-2007, 04:00 PM
#24
Come on people, read the thread first! Not only did I say this in my very first post but I said it again later...I JUST INSTALLED A NEW RADIATOR LAST NIGHT! 
By the way, my engine heats up to 180ish within two minutes or less. A LOT faster than it used to. It then heats up about 3 or 4 degrees every minute until it reaches approx 217*. It won't go any higher than that no matter if I drive on the highway or let her idle in a parking lot.
By the way, my engine heats up to 180ish within two minutes or less. A LOT faster than it used to. It then heats up about 3 or 4 degrees every minute until it reaches approx 217*. It won't go any higher than that no matter if I drive on the highway or let her idle in a parking lot.
Last edited by PewterZ28; 09-20-2007 at 04:58 PM.
09-20-2007, 04:02 PM
#25
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Originally Posted by PewterZ28
By the way, my engine heats up to 180ish within two minutes are less. A LOT faster than it used to. It then heats up about 3 or 4 degrees every minute until it reaches approx 217*. It won't go any higher than that no matter if I drive on the highway or let her idle in a parking lot.
09-20-2007, 04:04 PM
#26
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I REALLY hope that isn't the problem because I never want to deal with ETP again. Yeah yeah, they make an awesome product but I have first hand experience that they are dreadful to deal with. I'd be too afraid that I would never get my heads back from them, EVER! They still have not got my Morel lifters back to me that I sent them 17 weeks ago!
09-20-2007, 04:22 PM
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Didnt read all of the other post.... but do you have cats by chance? :?
If you do you might check them.
Mine are clogged and will run fine for 10 mins at most and then its already at 180 climbing to 220 and higher. Thats on a cool day!
Thought that may be an idea?
If you do you might check them.
Mine are clogged and will run fine for 10 mins at most and then its already at 180 climbing to 220 and higher. Thats on a cool day!
Thought that may be an idea?
09-20-2007, 08:18 PM
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before you pull the heads...check the crossover pipe..you have to take off the intake anyway, so once the intake is off, go over all the coolant hoses/pipes to make sure you didnt miss anything. Even if the crossover pipe is on and bolted down...the ends of it that go into the heads have to be tight and should have a gasket on them to keep a good seal. Any amount of air getting in will mess up the whole system and make it run hot.
my car got so hot it went into limp mode and i had to shut it off. Luckily i was 2 blocks from the house.
my car got so hot it went into limp mode and i had to shut it off. Luckily i was 2 blocks from the house.
09-20-2007, 08:42 PM
#32
217 Aint Bad.. What T-stat Are You Running? .. I Know With My H\c Car I Was Getting Real ****** Hot Unitl I Went With A Ewp And No T-stat
I Know Youve Probally Been There But If Not Just Pull The T-stat And See If It Helps It Did Help Noticabally In My Case
Also What Do You Think Of Becool Radiatios Do They Offer That 20deg Drop In Temps Like They Advertise??
I Know Youve Probally Been There But If Not Just Pull The T-stat And See If It Helps It Did Help Noticabally In My Case
Also What Do You Think Of Becool Radiatios Do They Offer That 20deg Drop In Temps Like They Advertise??
09-20-2007, 09:25 PM
#33
Once again guys, lets read the thread before we ask a question that has already been answered. The Be Cool radiator did NOTHING for my car. I basically wasted $500. That's been my theme this year. My boiled out stock radiator performed just the same. I'm leaving it in anyways because its a better radiator but I'm still overheating. As for the cross over coolant pipes, on these heads they are up front. I assume you are talking about the metal lines that go from the heads, under the TB and then to the radiator connecting underneath the cap? I have already checked them. The coolant is flowing just fine through them.
The Be Cool radiator did NOTHING for my car. I basically wasted $500. That's been my theme this year. My boiled out stock radiator performed just the same. I'm leaving it in anyways because its a better radiator but I'm still overheating. As for the cross over coolant pipes, on these heads they are up front. I assume you are talking about the metal lines that go from the heads, under the TB and then to the radiator connecting underneath the cap? I have already checked them. The coolant is flowing just fine through them.
09-20-2007, 09:44 PM
#34
I bet the compression is getting in your cooling system. With what happened to your engine something may have cracked in heads or block...or gaskets are leaking compression into water jacket. By the way stock radiators will support a lot more power than people think. Good luck.
09-20-2007, 10:08 PM
#36
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I have had similar issues with engines in the past. the cuase can be sevral things. Retarded ignition timing, Engine to rich, Engine way to rich,Washed out cylinder with no cross hacth.
How are you oil temps ? do they climb ahead of the coolant temps ?
How are you oil temps ? do they climb ahead of the coolant temps ?
Originally Posted by PewterZ28
This is with a laptop using HP Tuners. My stock gauge also reads very high and surprisingly agrees with what the laptop is saying. Finally, I have a 2nd sensor that is at the water pump itself. It sets a warning light when temps reach 230. Well, when the car was running 250+ guess what? The light came on.
So the stock gauge, the laptop and the warning light ALL say I am overheating. Like I said, it used to be 250+ until we boiled out the radiator. Then it was just under 220. Last night I installed the $500 Be Cool radiator and the temps are still getting above 210 and it was only 69* outside.
Oh yeah, and it does this whether I'm just sitting at idle, driving through the subdivision or driving on the highway. No matter what I'm doing, in about 5 to 10 minutes the temps will peak around 217* and stay there.
So the stock gauge, the laptop and the warning light ALL say I am overheating. Like I said, it used to be 250+ until we boiled out the radiator. Then it was just under 220. Last night I installed the $500 Be Cool radiator and the temps are still getting above 210 and it was only 69* outside.
Oh yeah, and it does this whether I'm just sitting at idle, driving through the subdivision or driving on the highway. No matter what I'm doing, in about 5 to 10 minutes the temps will peak around 217* and stay there.
09-21-2007, 01:03 AM
#37
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I know you said that you checked the cooling fans, one possibility is they are going in the wrong direction maybe. Just throwing it out there but maybe you messed with the wiring. Other than that i would check the coolant block offs, then the heads unfortunately. Good luck
09-21-2007, 05:47 AM
#38
Sorry You are having issues with Your cooling system. I understand Your frustration with it and so many replies that were made where it is blatantly obvious they did not read the entire thread.
Hopefully You will disregard those replies but the one I hope You pay attention to is from davess02. He is telling You to not remove the heads until the system is pressure tested and checked for exhaust gases in the coolant. Any shop with a c02 tester can check for exhaust gases by holding the sensor/probe above Your open radiator. If both those prove ok then it is time to remove the heads and look at head gaskets to see if they were installed correctly and if they have the correct sized coolant passages by laying your gasket on a known good gasket.
Last You will have to inspect the heads for casting flaws or foreign debris in the coolant passages.
If I had to speculate, I would say the problem will be with the head gaskets.
Hope this is helpful and let us know how this unfolds. Carl.
Hopefully You will disregard those replies but the one I hope You pay attention to is from davess02. He is telling You to not remove the heads until the system is pressure tested and checked for exhaust gases in the coolant. Any shop with a c02 tester can check for exhaust gases by holding the sensor/probe above Your open radiator. If both those prove ok then it is time to remove the heads and look at head gaskets to see if they were installed correctly and if they have the correct sized coolant passages by laying your gasket on a known good gasket.
Last You will have to inspect the heads for casting flaws or foreign debris in the coolant passages.
If I had to speculate, I would say the problem will be with the head gaskets.
Hope this is helpful and let us know how this unfolds. Carl.
09-21-2007, 08:53 AM
#39
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I had this happen to me about 2 months ago..I chased down everything I could think of. I boiled it down to 2 things. 1) The MLS gaskets were swapped. This blocks water passages to the rear of the motor, causing severe overheating.
2) Fan wiring...(This was my problem) One of the fans had a reversed palarity problem. Although they were kicking on, and I swore they were flowing properly, my high spped fan was in the wrong direction.
Once we corrected that, 100% of all of out cooling issues went away...
If its not that, I would just pull the heads and look. Are you using GM MLS head gaskets? Or cometics? Cause with GM, they have a way to identify them while the head is still on..
2) Fan wiring...(This was my problem) One of the fans had a reversed palarity problem. Although they were kicking on, and I swore they were flowing properly, my high spped fan was in the wrong direction.
Once we corrected that, 100% of all of out cooling issues went away...
If its not that, I would just pull the heads and look. Are you using GM MLS head gaskets? Or cometics? Cause with GM, they have a way to identify them while the head is still on..
09-21-2007, 09:01 AM
#40
So in your case the gaskets were on backwards AND the fans were wired wrong or just the fans were wired wrong?
I am currently using GM MLS gaskets. However, my stock motor was using Cometic gaskets back in March when we installed the ETP heads. Both my stock motor and this new motor had/has overheating problems. I never had overheating problems until I got these heads.
Please tell me how I can tell if the gaskets are on correctly.
I am currently using GM MLS gaskets. However, my stock motor was using Cometic gaskets back in March when we installed the ETP heads. Both my stock motor and this new motor had/has overheating problems. I never had overheating problems until I got these heads.
Please tell me how I can tell if the gaskets are on correctly.