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Thinner Gaskets VS. Milling Heads

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Old Oct 1, 2007 | 12:14 AM
  #21  
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I have ls6 heads milled .015 and a cometic .040 gasket. Checked PTV clearance and all was fine and no detonation on pump gas. Took down the chamber to 61cc I believe it was and ended with a SCR of ~ 11.5:1 and a DCR of ~8.4 with my cam. I'm happy with milling and gasket

William
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Old Oct 1, 2007 | 12:22 AM
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Love your avatar will69camaro.

Those numbers look good but with my specified cam, I'll be really tight in stock form as is.
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Old Oct 1, 2007 | 01:36 AM
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Originally Posted by vettenuts
I have been told to just clean well up to and including honing the block with a stone to reduce the Ra to an acceptable level. So what is everyone doing for block prep for the Cometics that "aren't" having leaks?
Doing head and cam with a .040 cometics next week and would like to know if there are any tips on how to properly prep the heads and block
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Old Oct 1, 2007 | 05:29 AM
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Originally Posted by CodeName Z06
Doing head and cam with a .040 cometics next week and would like to know if there are any tips on how to properly prep the heads and block


Would like to know how you make out with your prep and results. I have been going back and forth on the Cometics and a lot of engine builders are telling me to steer clear of them.
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Old Oct 1, 2007 | 09:41 AM
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Mine has been good so far (knock on wood) and I didn't really take any special precautions (nothing out of the ordinary). I cleaned the entire surface of the block with scotchbrite (sp) pad and carb cleaner. Used a razor blade to get the big stuff off first (being very careful and always making sure to have a sharp blade). I went as far on mine as cleaning the pistons and the entire outside of the block so it looked new! No problems with head gaskets yet and its been about 6k miles ago. (~knocks on wood~)

William

p.s. Oh yea make sure your bolt holes are VERY clean before you start trying to install the heads (I used compressed air, carb cleaner and paper towels).
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Old Oct 1, 2007 | 10:24 AM
  #26  
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with a .600 lift cam how much can you mill, or rather, how many thousanths do i have to play with befor my valves start hitting
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Old Oct 1, 2007 | 10:38 AM
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Originally Posted by will69camaro
Mine has been good so far (knock on wood) and I didn't really take any special precautions (nothing out of the ordinary). I cleaned the entire surface of the block with scotchbrite (sp) pad and carb cleaner. Used a razor blade to get the big stuff off first (being very careful and always making sure to have a sharp blade). I went as far on mine as cleaning the pistons and the entire outside of the block so it looked new! No problems with head gaskets yet and its been about 6k miles ago. (~knocks on wood~)

William

p.s. Oh yea make sure your bolt holes are VERY clean before you start trying to install the heads (I used compressed air, carb cleaner and paper towels).
Thanks. I have asked in several places and have been told by some that I need to get a honing stone and basically polish the surface. Then the question is where does all that small aluminum particles end up. Seemed more problems then it was worth but if I can just clean the block real well then it makes things much simpler.
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Old Oct 1, 2007 | 11:49 AM
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Just clean it good and spray some copper gasket sealant on both sides of the gasket.
I've never had one leak on me yet. Also use proper torquing method/sequence of head bolts.
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Old Oct 1, 2007 | 12:28 PM
  #29  
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Lift is a big factor but the way the cam opens and closes the valves and the valve events have significant effects on amount you can mill. I have a .600 lift cam and I took a total of .030 off the head/gasket combo. I of course checked PTV clearance, as you should with any change like that. About the aluminum shavings, you will have debris from the cleaning of the block just make sure to use compressed air or a rag to clean it all out. I rotated the engine to get each piston of the cylinder I was working around to TDC so nothing fell into the cylinder.

I had also heard about spraying the copper gasket sealant but I just put mine on without anything and followed the torque sequency and torquing method ARP suggested when reinstalling and all has been good.

William
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Old Oct 1, 2007 | 07:01 PM
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Originally Posted by PREDATOR-Z
Just clean it good and spray some copper gasket sealant on both sides of the gasket.
I've never had one leak on me yet. Also use proper torquing method/sequence of head bolts.
Now i am not that scared, did you spray the sealant on bolth sides before putting ti on or did you spray one side, then the other when it was on the block.
Will the ARP head bolts give a better seal than the GM bolts, being worth the extra 100 bucks?
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Old Oct 1, 2007 | 07:38 PM
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The nice thing is the ARP are reusable, that alone makes them worth it IMO. Its just extra insurance. If you do get them follow their method of bringing the bolt to torque.

William
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